Bar Risers - Page 3 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Just an FYI for those purchasing in-line riser blocks that raise the clamp area...

Honda risers are manufactured with a stepped design in the clamp area. (See Pic)

Some riser manufacturers make model specific designs machined to match this (Touratech), others or "universal" risers are cut straight and do not account for it, which means if you mount per Honda spec, you would need a gap between the riser block and the lower stem and tighten the Cap tight to the block. With Touratech, since they machine in the step on the riser, you retain the gap at the cap, and the riser block sits tight to lower stem.

Either way, the AT clamps are not meant to be mounted with equidistant gap between the cap and stem like many of us are used to. The "Front" should be tight, and the gap at the rear (towards rider). Torque is 24 ft-lb, tighten front fully before rear. (from Honda service Manual)
Thanks for the tip, was looking at my clamps tonight and wondering about this. Previous owner had them equally gaped front and rear.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 01:50 PM
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Rox has lots of different risers. I used Rox "Speed" risers and they moved the bars back and up to make the bar position perfect for me. I'm 5'-10". The AT has the best standing position of any of my 5 dual sports.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:02 PM
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Too tight? I have Touratech's raisers and they're not quite tall enough. I'm 6'3". I installed the Knight Design lowered pegs but I need a tad more to stand comfortably.

Thanks!
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SkipD View Post
2 inch Rox in grey they are tight on the brake lines
SkipD: Too tight? I have Touratech's raisers and they're not quite tall enough. I'm 6'3". I installed the Knight Design lowered pegs but I need a tad more to stand comfortably.

Thanks!
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 02:31 PM
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I don't have my '17 DCT yet but I've started collecting parts. I have the Knights Design lowered pegs already. I'm 6'4" and was thinking about adding 1 3/4" risers. I've read about people adding 2" risers and the cables being too tight so hopefully 1 3/4" would be ok.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 05:42 PM
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that's a must do for me
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 05:46 PM
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well they definitely had some 1980's suspension parts to get rid of.1987 cr 500 bits must have sat on the shelves too long
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:07 PM
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I am 6'0" and I too feel the bars should be a little taller. I would prefer to install taller bars as opposed to risers. IMO bar risers are a bandaid. I am curious as to if anyone has researched different bars and how they compare to the factory setup.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Just an FYI for those purchasing in-line riser blocks that raise the clamp area...

Honda risers are manufactured with a stepped design in the clamp area. (See Pic)

Some riser manufacturers make model specific designs machined to match this (Touratech), others or "universal" risers are cut straight and do not account for it, which means if you mount per Honda spec, you would need a gap between the riser block and the lower stem and tighten the Cap tight to the block. With Touratech, since they machine in the step on the riser, you retain the gap at the cap, and the riser block sits tight to lower stem.

Either way, the AT clamps are not meant to be mounted with equidistant gap between the cap and stem like many of us are used to. The "Front" should be tight, and the gap at the rear (towards rider). Torque is 24 ft-lb, tighten front fully before rear. (from Honda service Manual)
Thanks for this info. I recently installed a 30mm Sw-Motech riser and I was curious as to why it didn't sit flush. At present I have set the gap equal on both sides.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:33 PM
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Thanks to previous posts in this thread, lots of good information. At 6'8" I definitely need to raise the handlebars as well as the seat as well as the bike... As the factory handlebar holders are offset I've turned them around so that the handlebar is more forward and I've rotated the handlebars forward to get more height in exchange for less sweep. This is better, actually good except that the seat needs to come up a couple of inches which means that handlebars should as well so I'm looking for a longer term solution. One thing I'm considering is the Pro Taper Evo Adventure handlebar with the high rise ( 5.6" rise ). As someone in this thread has pointed out, this may provide so much leverage that stock bushings inside top fork bridge aren't adequately stiff, but they could be replaced with something stiffer easily enough. As an aside, when changing orientation of my handlebar holders I noticed one of these bushings was already starting to rust ( completely dry ) so I greased them. Additionally, for anybody rotating stock handlebars ( with or without risers ) the left and right switch housings have plastic pins that locate them on the handlebars at specific angles and will require drilling new holes if rotating a significant amount as in my case. Is it that risers are simpler to install that makes them more popular than high rise handlebars ? Anybody tried the Pro Taper high rise or equivalent handlebars on AT ? Other things I may not be thinking about ? With current setup, factory handguards are hitting windshield before I reach steering lock, but not by much.
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