Removing the Rear Shock - Page 4 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
 6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:45 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 30
Ok phoned Hyper Pro and as pointed out above the instructions to follow are USD spring and cartridge!

Time to rebuild my forks....
Apachesmith is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:09 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 27
You have to keep in mind that their instructions are not EXACTLY for a 2016 Africa Twin. So some internals are a little different than Hyperpro manual.
XR650RRider is online now  
post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:52 AM
Senior Member
 
eltel62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221
Garage
Removed my rear shock today and dropped it down the shop to get the spring changed for a +20mm Hyperpro. Exactly as Wytco0 states, 15 minutes tops once you have a few tools to hand. I have a centrestand, that helps rather than hinders. Workshop manual states you should remove the regulator/rectifier, this is only precautionary and is not really neccessary.

1) Jack up bike - or put on centrestand.
2) Undo bottom suspension links. - Very easy access, you don't need to remove any bodywork or anything.
3) Remove Preload adjuster knob from shock - a simple crosshead screwdriver. Workshop manual does not give this step but it makes it much easier to remove the shock.
4) undo top shock bolt. - you will require a small drift to help you get the bolts out after taking off the nuts. There are no washers to drop and lose.
5) Lift the swing-arm and the shock can be twisted and got out. - you can do this by yourself, just lift the wheel and wedge something under it, you need to raise this quite a bit, at least 8".

A socket set with a 6"-8" extension and regular spanners will suffice, no special tools needed. You just need a socket and extension the other side of the top bolt to reach (or a spanner with a socket on the end) These are not hard to undo or access. To refit just the reverse but do have a Torque Wrench for your own safety, again, values in the manual.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide1.JPG
Views:	59
Size:	174.8 KB
ID:	18474   Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide2.JPG
Views:	57
Size:	119.4 KB
ID:	18482  
tjabbie and Mudslingr like this.

Last edited by eltel62; 02-21-2017 at 11:30 AM.
eltel62 is offline  
 
post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 10:12 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pacific North West U.S.A.
Posts: 45
Thanks, Let us know how it feels when you get a chance to test it out. I'm considering doing this.
eltel62 likes this.
Mudslingr is offline  
post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 10:18 AM
Senior Member
 
eltel62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221
Garage
I refitted the rear shock today with my new Hyperpro +20mm. A little more awkward to refit than remove but it still only took me 30 minutes with all of the right gear to hand. I am delighted with the result as I have got more rear suspension stroke back and much more leeway for increasing the rear pre-load when taking a pillion/luggage. I am a heavy rider so this new spring is addressing that and not an inherent fault in the rear shock which is spec’d for lighter riders. It would definitely aid those lighter riders who want a passenger and pile up the luggage though. Try this first before any other high $$$ replacement.


It is important to note that this is not really a suspension upgrade, my shock is no better than before, I have merely put a more suitable spring on my shock for my weight range to allow me to keep the bike geometry right and run with a better overall suspension travel. If you are a light rider and never load up this would make little difference to you, but to me it is a big difference.


I have a table of Sag Vs Preload settings (on another post) for a fixed 125Kg weight. I will update this and repost comparing old Vs new when I get a helper to measure.
With the OEM spring, static Sag was 50mm or 22.6% of rear travel and with the Hyperpro it was 36mm, 16.3% of total rear travel at the factory preload setting of 7 clicks. This is just the weight of the bike, half a tank of fuel, crash bars and a touring screen, results will vary a little farkle depending. My reach to the ground is now a little longer but that is no trouble for me, I am 6ft but not flat footed with the seat in the normal position.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Slidez.JPG
Views:	41
Size:	174.8 KB
ID:	18930   Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide1.JPG
Views:	42
Size:	257.0 KB
ID:	18938   Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide2.JPG
Views:	39
Size:	141.2 KB
ID:	18946   Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide3.JPG
Views:	35
Size:	114.1 KB
ID:	18954   Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide4.JPG
Views:	37
Size:	167.1 KB
ID:	18962  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Slide5.JPG
Views:	38
Size:	154.8 KB
ID:	18970  
tjabbie likes this.
eltel62 is offline  
post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 81
Do you know what the sag is with you onboard?.
cadoganpier is offline  
post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:23 AM
Senior Member
 
eltel62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Ireland
Posts: 221
Garage
New rear sag table for 125Kg load with Hyperpro +20mm from Rugged Roads. Once into about 10 clicks into rear preload the gain was approx 18-19mm the rest of the way up. By no means scientific or controled conditions, just a tape measure and feet up on the pegs. That should allow pretty much any light/medium weight rider to take a significant load and achieve front/rear sag of 30%, easy. Once I am loaded up or with pillion I will sit lower than 30% but still way more acceptable than what I could previously achieve, as a mainly road rider that will be fine. I previously had to back of the front preload to virtually nothing to get the nose down, now I don't have to.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Africa Twinsagtable2.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	124.4 KB
ID:	18986  

Last edited by eltel62; 02-23-2017 at 11:42 AM.
eltel62 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rear suspension replacement NetJack Wheels, Tires, and Suspension 11 02-24-2017 03:14 AM
Rear suspension sag setting xsilvergs Wheels, Tires, and Suspension 24 12-23-2016 10:02 PM
Radiator Guards and Rear Rack SkipD Appearance & Body 2 12-20-2016 04:58 AM
Windscreen removing Mad Frosty Appearance & Body 17 06-12-2016 10:10 AM
Rear inner tube Tinpot Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin General Discussion Forum 13 03-19-2016 04:22 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome