Removing the Rear Shock - Page 4 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:45 AM
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Ok phoned Hyper Pro and as pointed out above the instructions to follow are USD spring and cartridge!

Time to rebuild my forks....
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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 10:09 AM
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You have to keep in mind that their instructions are not EXACTLY for a 2016 Africa Twin. So some internals are a little different than Hyperpro manual.
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:52 AM
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Removed my rear shock today and dropped it down the shop to get the spring changed for a +20mm Hyperpro. Exactly as Wytco0 states, 15 minutes tops once you have a few tools to hand. I have a centrestand, that helps rather than hinders. Workshop manual states you should remove the regulator/rectifier, this is only precautionary and is not really neccessary.

1) Jack up bike - or put on centrestand.
2) Undo bottom suspension links. - Very easy access, you don't need to remove any bodywork or anything.
3) Remove Preload adjuster knob from shock - a simple crosshead screwdriver. Workshop manual does not give this step but it makes it much easier to remove the shock.
4) undo top shock bolt. - you will require a small drift to help you get the bolts out after taking off the nuts. There are no washers to drop and lose.
5) Lift the swing-arm and the shock can be twisted and got out. - you can do this by yourself, just lift the wheel and wedge something under it, you need to raise this quite a bit, at least 8".

A socket set with a 6"-8" extension and regular spanners will suffice, no special tools needed. You just need a socket and extension the other side of the top bolt to reach (or a spanner with a socket on the end) These are not hard to undo or access. To refit just the reverse but do have a Torque Wrench for your own safety, again, values in the manual.
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Last edited by eltel62; 02-21-2017 at 11:30 AM.
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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 10:12 AM
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Thanks, Let us know how it feels when you get a chance to test it out. I'm considering doing this.
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 10:18 AM
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I refitted the rear shock today with my new Hyperpro +20mm. A little more awkward to refit than remove but it still only took me 30 minutes with all of the right gear to hand. I am delighted with the result as I have got more rear suspension stroke back and much more leeway for increasing the rear pre-load when taking a pillion/luggage. I am a heavy rider so this new spring is addressing that and not an inherent fault in the rear shock which is spec’d for lighter riders. It would definitely aid those lighter riders who want a passenger and pile up the luggage though. Try this first before any other high $$$ replacement.

It is important to note that this is not really a suspension upgrade, my shock is no better than before, I have merely put a more suitable spring on my shock for my weight range to allow me to keep the bike geometry right and run with a better overall suspension travel. If you are a light rider and never load up this would make little difference to you, but to me it is a big difference.

I have a table of Sag Vs Preload settings (on another post) for a fixed 125Kg weight. I will update this and repost comparing old Vs new when I get a helper to measure.
With the OEM spring, static Sag was 50mm or 22.6% of rear travel and with the Hyperpro it was 36mm, 16.3% of total rear travel at the factory preload setting of 7 clicks. This is just the weight of the bike, half a tank of fuel, crash bars and a touring screen, results will vary a little farkle depending. My reach to the ground is now a little longer but that is no trouble for me, I am 6ft but not flat footed with the seat in the normal position.
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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Do you know what the sag is with you onboard?.
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 11:23 AM
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New rear sag table for 125Kg load with Hyperpro +20mm from Rugged Roads. Once into about 10 clicks into rear preload the gain was approx 18-19mm the rest of the way up. By no means scientific or controled conditions, just a tape measure and feet up on the pegs. That should allow pretty much any light/medium weight rider to take a significant load and achieve front/rear sag of 30%, easy. Once I am loaded up or with pillion I will sit lower than 30% but still way more acceptable than what I could previously achieve, as a mainly road rider that will be fine. I previously had to back of the front preload to virtually nothing to get the nose down, now I don't have to.
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Last edited by eltel62; 02-23-2017 at 11:42 AM.
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