Koso Apollo Heated Grips - Page 8 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #71 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Guri View Post
Speaking of the cable connection ...

I want to install my Koso Apollo but I am debating whether I should install it directly (through a fuse) of the battery or add a relay that should be activated when the key is in position.
Any thought?

For the people who installed directly form the battery ...
Do you trust automatic shutdown?

Before installing it, I tried it on my bench and discovered that with the maximum power (red LED) the total power consumption is only 2 A.
If that's accurate then 24 watts or 12 watts each side doesn;t sound much when it'd hanging out there in a 70mph breeze.. My warmnsafe socks take more power than that and they are tucked in beneath some pretty effectively insulated boots.
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post #72 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 06:24 PM
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Agreed, I notice that on days when the temp is under 40 degrees F the grips cool off pretty quickly when your hand isn't on the grip holding the heat in. Overall I'm happy with them though, really like the not having a control box mounted on the bars part of them, I have enough stuff on the bars already!
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post #73 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ghorgan View Post
Having found the Koso Apollo grips inadequate, I had tested them with an 18v power tool battery.
Ran for five minutes at max power, no smoke and much warmer. Uncomfortable if gripped with bare hand.

So, I added a step up transformer 12v to 18v. About the size of a cig pack, $12 US.

Ran that setup for total of about twenty hours recently, mostly on mid-setting, during 2600 mile trip. No problems.
The electronics must be safe with the over-voltage.

The attached picture of my under seat wiring is complex; the transformer is the silver finned unit.

The Eastern Beaver board supplies fused power to:
Cruise control (MCCruise)
Heated grips (Koso Apolllo)
Aux lights (Cyclops)
Auxlights smart dimmer (Skeene) left side below Kydex mount board of E-Bvr.
Voltmeter and USB ports combo (LiDilVi).
Power socket for heated jacket liner.

GPS (Garmin Montana) unswitched.
Tire pressure monitor (M3 TPMS), unswitched.
How the system is working, with the step up transformer, after been used for some time?

https://www.africatwinforum.com/foru...05-post57.html
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post #74 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 02:27 PM
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I am happy with the boost in heat output.

My 2017 AT DCT rolled 20,00 miles last year. The voltage step up transformer added in October. Tested on several trips late in the year. Probably used 50% of the time over 4,000 miles. Real test was early in December returning from California to my high desert home in Southern Oregon. Over two hours of below 30 deg F. Grass Lake summit indicated 27 on AT instruments and Dorris at 26. I was OK with Gerbing and heated grips. Finger tips a little numb behind Barkbuster Storm guards.

My AT currently resting until temps on CA coast or in Death Valley climb a bit; I am icebound here, surrounded by 5,000 ft passes but have a trailer.

My major winter project has been conversion of spoked rims to tube free. They seem to be holding pressure. Inexpensive, about $40 for enough 3M tape and sealant for six rims. Just several hours of prep and careful application. The marine sealant takes a week to cure before fitting tires.
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post #75 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghorgan View Post
I am happy with the boost in heat output.

My 2017 AT DCT rolled 20,00 miles last year. The voltage step up transformer added in October. Tested on several trips late in the year. Probably used 50% of the time over 4,000 miles. Real test was early in December returning from California to my high desert home in Southern Oregon. Over two hours of below 30 deg F. Grass Lake summit indicated 27 on AT instruments and Dorris at 26. I was OK with Gerbing and heated grips. Finger tips a little numb behind Barkbuster Storm guards.

My AT currently resting until temps on CA coast or in Death Valley climb a bit; I am icebound here, surrounded by 5,000 ft passes but have a trailer.

My major winter project has been conversion of spoked rims to tube free. They seem to be holding pressure. Inexpensive, about $40 for enough 3M tape and sealant for six rims. Just several hours of prep and careful application. The marine sealant takes a week to cure before fitting tires.
Thanks for your reply.
Did you measured if the step-up transformer really provides 18V when the grip is working?
I emailed to Koso and they replied by telling me that the maximum voltage is 14V.
I used mine on the standar 12V and I feel that it has enought power to provide a warm and confort heat when I was riding and the ambien temperature was 37F.
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post #76 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 01:43 PM
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Yes, 18v tested with a DVM.

I had originally checked the performance and functionality of the grips using an 18v power tool battery to see if the Kosso controller would take the extra voltage.
Ran without any problems for five minutes at max setting and the controller still allowed output stepping. So, I fitted the step-up transformer and am pleased with the result.

Obviously the manufacturer does not approve of this voltage boost; reliability issues.

Since I was going to replace them anyway because of inadequate heat output, I thought it was worthwhile to experiment. Not having to replace and rewire another set was good news.
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post #77 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghorgan View Post

My major winter project has been conversion of spoked rims to tube free. They seem to be holding pressure. Inexpensive, about $40 for enough 3M tape and sealant for six rims. Just several hours of prep and careful application. The marine sealant takes a week to cure before fitting tires.


Hi Ghorgan,
Not sure if I've already asked you on a separate post (and if I did, sorry for the repetition), but good to hear the 3M conversion is working for you. I'm planning the same, but I did get the fast cure 3M 5200, which should cure in 24 hours. Will leave for 48 just to be safe anyways.


I'd be interested to see any picture if you have, especially how you applied the sealant part. Circle around spoke and then dab in the middle? Did you use anything to push it down or shape it? Did you use anything to protect the 3M tape, like an extra layer of gorilla tape or the original rubber rim strip? Did you seal the new valve stem you installed?


Thanks in advance, any tips or suggestions much appreciated.

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Africa Twin 2018 manual,red (my new baby)
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post #78 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-23-2019, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guri View Post
Speaking of the cable connection ...

I want to install my Koso Apollo but I am debating whether I should install it directly (through a fuse) of the battery or add a relay that should be activated when the key is in position.
Any thought?

For the people who installed directly form the battery ...
Do you trust automatic shutdown?
Have you tested the automatic shutdown? You can see exactly what it does before you've committed to the installation.

I don't have Koso, but I've had several generations of Oxford grips, with a similar shutdown feature. For Oxford, their claim is it will shut down before your battery is damaged, not that your battery will have enough charge remaining to start your bike. Is Koso any different?

Also, if your bike is DCT, no question use a relay, or a PC8 or similar.
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post #79 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by davidji View Post
Have you tested the automatic shutdown? You can see exactly what it does before you've committed to the installation.

I don't have Koso, but I've had several generations of Oxford grips, with a similar shutdown feature. For Oxford, their claim is it will shut down before your battery is damaged, not that your battery will have enough charge remaining to start your bike. Is Koso any different?

Also, if your bike is DCT, no question use a relay, or a PC8 or similar.
Hey @davidji .
I sent an email to the factory and they responded by telling me that the deactivation voltage is 11.5 [V], after that, the current consumption will be close to 0.01 [A]. That voltage that might not damage your battery (yet) but that surely will not start the motorcycle without help. Personally, I will be more comfortable if the shutdown voltage is set to 12.5 [V]... I prefer it to work only when the engine is running and the alternator is charging it.
I did not test the automatic shutdown but I might test it with my bench power supply.
Yes, I am planning to add a shutdown relay to isolate the battery and my bike is manual.
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post #80 of 84 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 01:06 AM
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Tubeless project.

Make a jig to hold the wheel vertically at working height and able to rotate when temporary cross bar removed.

I used the 3M 5200 sealant, white, $16 from my local Home Depot. Enough for 5 rims.
And 3M 4412N Sealant Tape Roll - 2 in. (W) x 15 ft. (L), $26 from Amazon. Enough for four rims.

The sealant is quite thick at 66 deg F (19 deg C) and maybe I cut the nozzle oversize. Just run a bead around the nipple and fill the middle.
Don't touch it! It is super tacky. Do 1/3 of a rim and weight two hours keeping the blobs on top to prevent creep.

I waited until the sealant was firm, about a week, before taping.

I did mask the side shoulders/tire beads with electrical tape on the front rim.

Set up a simple spindle for a tape spool; easier to handle with two hands. Tape went on without problems.
On thing I discovered while cutting away the excess on the fornt was that the tape has a removable skin on the non-stick side.
Once that is removed the 2mm film is easier to roll tighter to the rim between the blobs.

I did use a little sealant around the valve stem inner surface, in addition to the o-ring.

Bought both the angled and straight 10mm stems. Because I use TPMS caps, the straight work better.

Three weeks now and pressures steady. And snow steady too.
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