Any chance of breaking the bead on an AT rear tire without a bead breaker tool? - Page 2 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by fuelpincher View Post
The side-stand method has always worked for me and it doesn't require carrying any more tools. It is easiest to use your riding buddy's bike to do it but if you are alone and have a center stand, just carefully lean it onto the tire to break bead.
I've used this method before out on the road. It works best if there are two of you, but can be done alone. Its amazing what can be achieved when you are stranded alone
That having been said, a set of bead breakers are the way forward.

If you are home, a couple of decent sized G clamps can take a lot of hassle out of breaking the bead but generally too big and bulky to carry on a trip. I carry the Motion Pro set also for that very reason.

regards
James Mc
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, I figure it is always best to take the path of least resistance and have the tools that make a tough job a bit less trouble. I ride alone most of the time in remote areas with no cell service and no people. If I'm on my own with a flat, I want every advantage.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motofabio View Post
To answer your original question, breaking it without a tool, I stood on my front (I'm 180 lbs) and bounced on it. It let go. My BMW friends couldn't believe it. One break on the rear with the tool and standing on it popped the rest off, which they also couldn't believe. Apparently the bead on their wheels is more prominent and doesn't let go as easily. If you weigh less than I do, I'd say the breaker tool is a must unless you want to start pulling MacGyver tricks on the trail. I'm not a fan of that; having the right tool for the job is *always* the way to go.


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motofabio has it about right. Tube type rims do not have the same profile as tubeless rims that lock the bead tight and can many times be kicked off the bead or will come off the bead by itself if ridden flat for any length of time. That is why most dirt bikes are equipped with rim locks to keep the rim from spinning in the tire when running low air pressure.
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 12:43 AM
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I changed a motorcycle tire for the first time today to take off my Mitas put the stock tread back on for some pavement trips. I wanted to use what I expected to have on the trail and was able to do it all with a set of Motion Pro levers (the light ones with the box ends for removing the wheel). Took some patience to break bead on the rear but got it pretty easily. I was thinking about getting the bead breaker set of levers but didn't want to carry the extra tools. I am adding a portable compressor and some mounting paste to my kit. Without the home air compressor and some veggie oil from the kitchen, finishing the changeout would have been tough.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 09:21 AM
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I bought the short mp bead breaker and it works perfect. Problem is I carry short tire lever 240mm and can't get tire off with short levers. Is there a trick to it or should I carry one long lever as well and how long should it be.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 10:26 PM
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bead breaker

I have the MP bead breaker but for years I would just use 3 tire irons, two I would lever downwards and the third in the middle I would lever upwards i to break the bead, in a pinch it works fine. For lube I carry a small bottle of windex glass cleaner, it works great for lube and doubles for cleaning my visor, vegetable oil really sounds like a bad idea ...just sayin
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 03:54 AM
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And whilst we are on the topic of breaking beads and changing tyres. Don't use dish washing up liquid to help remove/install tyres. Most of those detergents contain salt which can cause damage to aluminium rims over time. I tend to use a rubber/vinyl cleaner such as Armorall or similar. It's a lot less corrosive and does the job nicely.

regards
James Mc
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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-29-2017, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james.mc View Post
And whilst we are on the topic of breaking beads and changing tyres. Don't use dish washing up liquid to help remove/install tyres. Most of those detergents contain salt which can cause damage to aluminium rims over time. I tend to use a rubber/vinyl cleaner such as Armorall or similar. It's a lot less corrosive and does the job nicely.
Saddle soap works for me to lube the tyre. Small amount in a snap-top travel pill box.
Recommended by a local mechanic; [email protected] MX1Canada swears it's the best!
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 03:02 PM
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I can't comment on breaking the bead in the field, hoping that I will not have to learn the hard way...
However for doing it at home, I use a simple technique. Lay the bike wheel flat on a spare automotive wheel, brake disk(s) must not touch the rim! Take a 8' long 2x6" board, put the board's edge on bike's tire and jump on it. It might not work easy first time, but when I install the new or repaired tire, I use deliberately silicon spray. Next time it is a piece of cake...

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2009 BMW R1200RT (sold)
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-02-2017, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by black99S View Post
Saddle soap works for me to lube the tyre. Small amount in a snap-top travel pill box.
Recommended by a local mechanic; [email protected] MX1Canada swears it's the best!
Saddle soap typically contains lye, which is corrosive.
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