Rear wheel jacking stand?? - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-27-2017, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Rear wheel jacking stand??

Have no centerstand and don't really want one. I have a rear wheel tip up jack stand from before which fit into the small circular thread in spools on each side of the old bike, but see the AT doesn't have provision for this. Then I noticed that the rear axle is hollow completely through, so am thinking I may try a piece of solid steel (or threaded) rod, (approx. 3/8" or 8-9 mm put it through and life on the exposed ends of that. Wondering if anyone has tried this approach, or sees any risk in doing this. I am also open to other suggestions to raise the rear wheel for easier chain lube, tire inspections etc where rear tire is free to turn. Guess I would need to somehow stabilize the front ( wheel chock??) when doing this.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Looking closer at the above I think it would work pretty well, but I'm reluctant to be the first to lift the rear wheel via a shaft running through the hollow axle, although I don't really think it could cause any problem. Anyone more familiar with the AT have any thoughts or concerns about this approach. I don't have a service manual yet, so nothing to review in case there is a caution/warning. Not sure why the axle would be hollow as it is, possibly as a weight saving measure, cause I've not seen this on any of my previous bikes??
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 01:38 AM
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Let us know how it goes.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 03:49 AM
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Rear wheel jacking stand??

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Originally Posted by Ridenfun View Post
Looking closer at the above I think it would work pretty well, but I'm reluctant to be the first to lift the rear wheel via a shaft running through the hollow axle, although I don't really think it could cause any problem. Anyone more familiar with the AT have any thoughts or concerns about this approach. I don't have a service manual yet, so nothing to review in case there is a caution/warning. Not sure why the axle would be hollow as it is, possibly as a weight saving measure, cause I've not seen this on any of my previous bikes??


Most Dirt Bikes have a hollow axle. Possibly because a hollow axle maintains more rigidity than a thin solid axle of the same weight. Especially important on rough terrain off-road.

It won't do any harm since the axle already carries the bike and suffers far more stress while riding.


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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 09:51 AM
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R&G do sell bobbins that would work with an appropriate paddock stand. I have the centre stand on mine. It has the most vicious and damaging footprint of any stand I have ever used. Seems really sharp and marks whatever you stand it on. In the garage I tend to put it on the side stand propped up on a piece of wood to give me a bit of extra clearance to get in and out of my Boxster.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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pjm, thanks for the point to R&G as this is exactly what I was hoping to find. I may ultimately get the center stand too so appreciate your comment re it's aggressive footprint. I want to be able to simply lift the rear tire while the bike is on my lift, which has a front wheel chock. Center stand doesn't work well, since when you're rolled into the chock, moving backward to get the stand down doesn't work well. For the price of these bobbins, seems like an easy solution. Hopefully I can get these shipped to Canada, will try ordering them and give it a try. Curious to me that my dealer's parts guys couldn't have mentioned this as a solution.
Finally bought a lift to get up off the ground, particularly in the winter here when the concrete even in a garage is COLD, and I'm OLD to don't relish the bending and crawling around.
My friend also has an AT, he uses a jack to lift his, so I'm mention it to him as well, as he also has a jackstand.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Went ahead and used a 5/16 inch piece of steel rod about 3-4 inches wider than the AT's shaft ends. On the left side, I used a small (white in picture) plastic plumbing piece |(the holder to splice 2 sections of plastic water pipe) to reduce the slop around the stell rod, since the left had side has a larger size shaft opening than the right side. Below are pics; note needed to use wood 2X6 wood to raise the over jack stand as it was not high enough
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 03:20 AM
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No pics
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-24-2017, 11:06 AM
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So after installing the R&G sliders I found that my old track stand is not tall enough to lift the rear tire! Can't seem to find a taller track stand.....any suggestions?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2017, 12:24 AM
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If you are close to a Harbor Freight, you might consider a motorcycle jack from them. I've had one since 2007, and it still works well. I used to ride full dress Harley's, that where close to 1000lbs. and the jack still works today. The cost is $89, and if you join their club you can get a 25% every few months.

Normally I'm not a fan of Harbor Freight for quality, but once in a while you find a good tool there, and this is one of them. It took my dealer several months to get a center kick stand in for me. During that time I used the jack. After getting the kickstand, and being dissatisfied with it, I should have negotiated for something else thrown in with the sale of the bike. Since I can't post a link, just add the http/ to the line below.

t.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html


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