2018 ATAS DCT shifting issue - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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2018 ATAS DCT shifting issue

Hello everybody. I have jumped ship after 20 years of BMW GS ownership. I have owned 6 BMW GS's and just bought a new ATAS last Friday.


I might be having a bit of an issue though, when in any of the sport modes, but mostly s2 and s3, when you accelerate fast, not wide open, but hard, the bike will fail to upshift and hold onto 2nd or 3rd gear for far too long. It will actually let me back off the throtte, and continue at around 45-50mph over 6K RPMs. If I ride it less aggressively, it works perfect.
I talked to my Honda dealer today, and after they asked me if I was sure I wasn't in manual, I mostly got blank stares and a shove off.


Anyway, I made a video so you guys can see what it is doing. I pull out onto the highway at around the :50 second mark, the bike shifts into second just fine, but then holds second. You will hear some RPM changes, but that is just me backing off and back on the throttle trying to make it shift. It finally shifts to 3rd right as I approach the left turn lane in the video.
Wondering if anybody else as has this issue? If maybe I should do a DCT reset? The bike has 180 miles on it now.


Also, I might mention, that if I check the oil with the engine cold, straight upright and the dipstick not screwed in, I am at least an inch over the full mark.




Edit: can't post videos yet, too new.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 07:07 PM
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You have too much oil. Try adjusting your shift lever
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert rider View Post
You have too much oil. Try adjusting your shift lever

I have a shift lever?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 09:15 PM
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One thing I have noticed...... If you accelerate fairly briskly, not full throttle, the computer tries to predict what you are doing. It seems to think if you accelerate pretty good, it should delay the shifts longer. If you start real gentle, then it will upshift much sooner. Once you hit the gas even moderately, it does hold the gears longer and will not upshift when you back off. It has a tunnel vision focus, it figgers you want to boogie, so it hangs onto the gears, even when you let off.
You know you can hit the upshift paddle and cause it to upshift, right?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 10:11 PM
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What you described is perfectly normal behavior for the DCT.
Under brisk acceleration, simply use the + paddle if you want to short shift.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-05-2018, 10:17 PM
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Mine will do exactly the same thing. As stated by Texasten, I also believe it's part of the DCT's predictive nature.

I simply use the manual shift buttons in situations when I've confused it. I usually drive in S2 mode and still use the shift buttons regularly. It is such a fun and interesting bike to ride.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 02:24 PM
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If S2 & S3 are holding gear to long for you after brisk acceleration, try S1. It gives me all the gear hold i need when hard accelerating from standstill or for overtakes after i have manually dropped 2, then once you roll off the throttle or hold a steady throttle it quite quickly flicks back up through the box. Maybe you just need some more miles and experimenting under your belt on this bike to get fully acquainted with the characteristics of the DCT box. But as mentioned earlier you can always overide with the + - paddles.

Happy riding.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 02:29 PM
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Mine does the same and I dont worry about it. I just use the paddle shifters when I dont like what the DCT is doing and sometimes I put it in Manual mode and then Iīm in total control of the shifting.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lee711 View Post
If S2 & S3 are holding gear to long for you after brisk acceleration, try S1. It gives me all the gear hold i need when hard accelerating from standstill or for overtakes after i have manually dropped 2, then once you roll off the throttle or hold a steady throttle it quite quickly flicks back up through the box. Maybe you just need some more miles and experimenting under your belt on this bike to get fully acquainted with the characteristics of the DCT box. But as mentioned earlier you can always overide with the + - paddles.

Happy riding.



Yup, you are probably right. I have been discussing this on another adventure forum, and a member who is about 90 miles from me has the exact same bike, He offered to hook up and do a bike swap and see if they are different. I might take him up on it, also, I think I am going to drop five hundred bucks to extend my warranty to 48 months.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-06-2018, 05:44 PM
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On my 2017 DCT AT I use S3 when I want to ride very aggressively in the twisties. When I want to cruise there is a paddle by my finger that lets me tell the bike to up-shift straight away, or I can switch to S1. When I'm in S1 and want to increase my aggression I can use the paddle by my thumb and the twisty thing my right hand is on, I can also switch to S3. For my riding, I have found that the transmission modes I prefer are: D - don't use ever, S1 - great general use mode, S2 - better for aggressive mode, S3 - best for least fuel efficient/most fun/aggressive cornering.

mysticbus - don't be afraid to use those up-shift & down-shift paddles, most DCT riders should be using them more often. Also, don't be shy about swapping between S1, S2 & S3 when you want to change how you are riding. Play around with this more, ride heaps and have fun!
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