Engine breaker malfunction - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Engine breaker malfunction

My AT 2018 was behaving standard first 2100km, but afterwards something happened.
Before the curve on the road as normaly I just release the throtle bar and want engine to break the speed, but at the moment I reach 3000 rpm the breaking power of the engine is off and I'm in panic because it's surprising and dangerous as I'm speeding into the curve. Instantly I have to grab for brake lever and pedal to decrease the speed this way.
Seems as the fuel delivery was renewed again but too soon or too high above the iddle speed.
The change of this behavior in comparizon with first 2000km is significant, but "service mechanic" says it's ok and it's not
Have some of you ever got such an issue?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:09 PM
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On my 2017, engine braking is a a function of the drive mode. The 2018 ATAS has more options, but on the standard AT, try setting the mode to Sport 2 or 3.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 05:12 PM
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Or I should say that downshift frequency is a function of drive mode. If you are in sport, it will hold the gear longer when accelerating and downshift sooner when deaccelerating.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 06:11 PM
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I know the ATS has an engine braking setting. Does the 2018 AT have this same setting? It sounds like engine braking has been turned off.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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My bike is with manual gearbox. And I tried to set all three levels of engine braking, however, even at the strongest level it is braking weak. But the point is, that the braking efect dissapear at 3000 rpm. Technician stated it's normal and the fuel delivery is renewed at 3000 rpm just in order to keep iddle speed. I say it's bullshit, because riding at 3000 rpm on 6th gear means more than 90 km/h, it would be impossible to brake with the engine.
But first 2100 km it did not behave this way, it was just normal.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 02:40 AM
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Hi feel badly for you, this is the type of thing you do not want to go wrong on a bike.. I can see you have a problem somewhere & it shall take nothing short of a specialist to fix it.. or replacing a lot of parts to see when the problem disappears.. Honda dealerships generally do not have these type of specialist in house & also they do not have spare cpu's & sensors lying around to swop your bike out with.. Diagnosing the problem properly with intimate knowledge of the bikes workings are required here. I know I have been there with a vibration on my Honda VFR1200FD. After purchasing the workshop manual doing many things & using my own engineering mind I found that on the throttle body one bypass hole was blocked.. NO ONE WOULD BE ABLE TO FIX THIS AT THE DEALERSHIP.. It's a new bike so keep giving it back to them & then finally try to get a new bike from them so they could ask Honda Japan to get someone to fix it.. The reason I say this is that it could be a safety issue!!! I ride a 1200f DCT & I can imagine going down a pass in sport mode & the braking stops working the way I am use to it.. This could easily cause serious injury or even death on a sharp corner..!! Maybe use the words UNSAFE to ride, since this is what it is.. I sincerely hope you get this sorted..

Last edited by africano; 08-03-2018 at 02:44 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Africano, you are 1000% right. It's trully unsafe and first ride when it occured I was twice almost off my lane ...

Today I had a 45 minutes phone call with that technician but he is saying all time the same. His diagnostic gadget is showing everything ok. I told him to sit on bike and go riding on some curvy road to find out how it is in real ride. No, he does not see the reason, because diagrams from the gadget are clear. All is ok.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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And the biggest joke is, that according his "findigs" seller is going to reject this obvious waranty case. The bike is just 3 months old.

Last edited by Mrmmrm; 08-03-2018 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Grammar
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 12:47 PM
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It's funny you mention this. I'm finally getting used to the heavy mechanical engine breaking on my 2018 ATAS (manual).

I didn't like it much at first. The last time I rode a lot was in the late 70s and early 80s (my first two vehicles were used motorcycles; didn't buy a car until I was 23). If I let go of the throttle on my 1976 Kawasaki KZ650 or my 1978 Honda 750 Four K, they virtually coasted compared to this 2018 Honda.

It does certainly make the bike much safer. But it also makes it a bit clunky when shifting in the lower gears. On my bike - anyway - if you try to do a nice, slow, easy, casual take-off from stopped... you can't really do it while letting off on the throttle completely (unless you’re riding downhill). Because letting off the throttle completely brings the bike to a halt quickly (esp. in 1st, 2nd and 3rd -- but even at highway speeds and in 6th gear: I used to be able to take both hands off the bars for whatever reason, to stretch my arms a bit, or make a quick adjustment when it was safe, etc., but with this bike, if I take my hand off the throttle at 60 Mph, it slows down so fast you'd think I was using my breaks or downshifting--it's flat out impractical (or even dangerous, depending on what's behind you) to take your hand off the throttle at highway speeds. Doing 60 Mph or better on highway? Want to take your right hand off the throttle to check your back jeans pocket for your wallet? Forget about it! Unless there is no one behind you for miles. She has a very unforgiving throttle).

But your example of coming into a corner is where the engine breaking excels. Even in the higher gears. Let off the throttle and the bike slows quickly for you, helps you navigate some of the more gnarly stuff.

The 2018 ATAS Manual has 3 EB settings. I’d like a 4th or 5th. Or more difference between 1 and 3. 3 is the “least engine breaking effect” but it still breaks fairly hard. And it breaks hard in all gears and at all speeds and RPMs.

But what you are describing *is* dangerous. The bike is supposed to mechanically break and you are *used* to it doing that (and that nonsense the Technician is spouting is BS—as I described above, my bike breaks fairly hard even over 3k rpm and even at setting 3). This is a serious safety issue. Your bike is not doing what it is configured to do. I hope they fix it for you.

In the meantime, be safe and engine break the old-fashioned way… downshift.

Good luck, Gary
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-03-2018, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyh View Post
It's funny you mention this. I'm finally getting used to the heavy mechanical engine breaking on my 2018 ATAS (manual).

I didn't like it much at first. The last time I rode a lot was in the late 70s and early 80s (my first two vehicles were used motorcycles; didn't buy a car until I was 23). If I let go of the throttle on my 1976 Kawasaki KZ650 or my 1978 Honda 750 Four K, they virtually coasted compared to this 2018 Honda.

It does certainly make the bike much safer. But it also makes it a bit clunky when shifting in the lower gears. On my bike - anyway - if you try to do a nice, slow, easy, casual take-off from stopped... you can't really do it while letting off on the throttle completely (unless you’re riding downhill). Because letting off the throttle completely brings the bike to a halt quickly (esp. in 1st, 2nd and 3rd -- but even at highway speeds and in 6th gear: I used to be able to take both hands off the bars for whatever reason, to stretch my arms a bit, or make a quick adjustment when it was safe, etc., but with this bike, if I take my hand off the throttle at 60 Mph, it slows down so fast you'd think I was using my breaks or downshifting--it's flat out impractical (or even dangerous, depending on what's behind you) to take your hand off the throttle at highway speeds. Doing 60 Mph or better on highway? Want to take your right hand off the throttle to check your back jeans pocket for your wallet? Forget about it! Unless there is no one behind you for miles. She has a very unforgiving throttle).

But your example of coming into a corner is where the engine breaking excels. Even in the higher gears. Let off the throttle and the bike slows quickly for you, helps you navigate some of the more gnarly stuff.

The 2018 ATAS Manual has 3 EB settings. I’d like a 4th or 5th. Or more difference between 1 and 3. 3 is the “least engine breaking effect” but it still breaks fairly hard. And it breaks hard in all gears and at all speeds and RPMs.

But what you are describing *is* dangerous. The bike is supposed to mechanically break and you are *used* to it doing that (and that nonsense the Technician is spouting is BS—as I described above, my bike breaks fairly hard even over 3k rpm and even at setting 3). This is a serious safety issue. Your bike is not doing what it is configured to do. I hope they fix it for you.

In the meantime, be safe and engine break the old-fashioned way… downshift. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/AfricaTwinForum/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]

Good luck, Gary
Thanks Gary,

The same way as yours was mine first 2100km - just perfect.

Probably I will have to write comment or complain somewhere higher. Maybe Honda Europe in GB
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