Transmission binding up - Page 2 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Today whilst having a lovely ride out I was in a narrow country lane. I had a car on my bumper so slowed and waved for them to pass. As I slowed the bike it cut out. I am not sure if I may have nudged the kill switch. However when I stopped I tried to start and after going through its start up procedure I saw it was showing 2 and just clicking away. I then had to push the bike about 300yards to a safe spot. I checked all of the fuses, removed waited and reconnected earth but still no joy. I called Honda Aassist and whilst awaiting their arrival I stood in the shade and googled 'DCT stuck in second' One of the posts mentioned rolling the bike backwards. After that I switched on again and whilst it was clicking away I turned the rear wheel backwards. It immediately reset and went back to neutral. I then rode home without issue. I have run the DCT initialisation process and all seems good. Should I get the dealer to check it out or just accept it as a freak incident ?
I guess that sounds logical. Maybe just rotating/rocking it both ways, forwards and backwards, will alleviate the torque no matter which way it is bias towards in the box.

The 'problem' (if we should call it that) only seems to appear when the bike has been stopped abnormally. i.e. not using the ignition key to turn the engine off. I never use the Kill switch for normal use but can understand how accidentally using it might cause this problem. I'm fine with this as long as I know that it can occasionally happen, and what action is required on the spot to sort it out. Its not like you have to get tools out. It's no different than rocking older manual bikes to get through the box when stationary. Never used to hear people debating that too much eh? I feel its just a mechanical symptom, of most bike gearboxes and clutches, that we often have to live with.
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Current: 2017 CRF1000L DCT
Previous: 2008 Triumph Tiger 1050
Previous: 2003 Honda Varadero XL1000V (bought 2003, Sadly left behind in Europe)

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 06:08 PM
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I checked my helmet cam footage today and don't think that I actually touched the kill switch. Looks like it just died for no obvious reason.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-04-2017, 08:01 PM
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Definitely a problem unique to DCT, frustrating, but not a huge deal. I guess as the DCT needs oil pressure to operate, it makes sense that it cannot relieve the pressure while off. Operational differences

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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I checked my helmet cam footage today and don't think that I actually touched the kill switch. Looks like it just died for no obvious reason.
I'm guessing Honda would come to the same conclusion... died for no obvious reason. They are packing so much, by way of electronics, into bikes these days that the science is baffling the manufacturers and their appointed dealers now. If they can't read a a fault code then... O fault code therefore it must be OK sir! Until the next time it happens.. then you go back and get the same reaction.

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Africa Twin Canada eh?


Current: 2017 CRF1000L DCT
Previous: 2008 Triumph Tiger 1050
Previous: 2003 Honda Varadero XL1000V (bought 2003, Sadly left behind in Europe)
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-05-2017, 10:18 AM
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Went out on it yesterday without any issues. Might just get the dealer to plug it in to see if any issues are flagged up.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 10:58 AM
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I took it in a couple of weeks back and they connected it to the system. It spewed out two pages of fault codes. They reset the ECU and deleted the faults. I got home fine. They then called and Honda, having seen the fault code list, wanted it for a day of testing. I had only been out for a short run as I was wary of it breaking down again but did not experience any problems. It went in yesterday for a series of tests and the good news is that no new codes have shown up and it appears al good. They obviously did get right in to the bike as they discovered that a captive nut on the ECU mount is defective and Honda have authorised a warranty repair which will happen at its next service. Getting back in the bike to ride home it is light years away from the NC750S loan bike. It is just so comfortable. Will be going on a ride out to meet a group of guys from the NC700 forum. We are looking to raise a bit of cash for two cancer charities in memory of a member who we recently lost to cancer.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 04:44 PM
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This just happened to me over the weekend. With the kickstand up hold the front break and start up the bike.
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 01:04 AM
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It seems strange that this can happen to a DCT since both clutches release when the engine dies, there shouldn't be any way for the transmission to bind because it isn't connected to the engine. I have had this happen to electric shift Honda atvs but they stay in gear when they are dead. I don't disagree with anyone It just seems like it couldn't happen
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 01:50 PM
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I have had no problems since I changed how I wired my additional rear light feed to my top box. Initially I had an IP66 plug and socket under the top box. The socket was inside the top box. The terminals were very small and very close. In hindsight I think it was very briefly shorting live to earth and perhaps causing glitches in the system. I changed to a direct wire through a grommet in to the box and ran it back to a sumitomo plug under the seat. No issues since.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-26-2017, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by james.mc View Post
If you are already in Neutral then there would be no problem. The issue comes about when you have been riding in soft terrain and the rear wheel become bogged in and the engine stalls before you can clutch in. The transmission might retain torque within it, pretty much locking up the gearbox, preventing you from selecting any gear or Neutral, until the rear wheel is rotated. So yes, you are correct, in that situation dig out and rotate the rear wheel a bit either way whilst in gear, a bit like rocking the bike on level ground in gear, to put some free-play back in the transmission train. You should then be able to select Neutral on a manual or allow the DCT to do its thing prior to starting.

Both the Manual and DCT would could encounter the same problem and the solution is the same on both counts. Dig out, or tip bike on its side, rotate rear wheel a bit.
Not possible unless one piston is on the compression stroke when the engine stops (270 deg twin so both could not be) and the condition could only last until compression bleeds off as rings and valve seats are not perfect seals. The bleed off would start as soon as the engine stopped and within 10, maybe 15 seconds the torque would have all but dissipated.
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