Anybody check yet on oil? - Page 2 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
 4Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 03:45 AM
Senior Member
 
Dibbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Essex,UK
Posts: 106
My dealer said they use a 'running in' oil from Honda! then semi Synthetic thereafter as fully syn is 'too good'!!! whatever that's supposed to mean...
Dibbs is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 05:13 PM
Senior Member
 
zippysworld's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 156
Quote:
Originally Posted by PathRider View Post
I'm going to do the first oil change myself, but when I went to get the new filter and drain plug washer, the dealer said there were two drain plugs? Is that right? Where are they?
There are definitely two drain plugs, one at the front and one towards the back right. very important to drain both as the back one holds a lot of oil too.
don't forget if you have the DCT model you need two different filters too.
Hope this helps
zippysworld is offline  
post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 07:54 PM
Senior Member
 
Dibbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Essex,UK
Posts: 106
I service my ktm 520 myself but the AT will be done by the dealer!
Dibbs is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 10:02 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada.
Posts: 112
What ever oil the manufacturer/dealer put in the bike for delivery. Personally I would use
dino oil for a few thousand km to allow it to actually break-in. Full synthetic after it's broken in, probably Motul...it's the best. That's all I use in my other motorcycles.
Once it's broken in there no reason not to use the absolute best oil you can get, the motor will have a long life using full synthetic, if it isn't abused.
EZStreet is offline  
post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 01:43 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Sydney, puɐlɹǝpunuʍop
Posts: 57
I'll be using dino for the first two services, one at 1000km and the next probably around 6-8000km, then move to synthetic. Wondering if I can use the Motorex 10w60 I bought for my dirtbike. I'd like to, because I have about 15L of the stuff and the dirtbike uses all of 1.4L at a time, but worried it may be too thick when hot. Big jump from 10w30 to 10w60.
p2rider is offline  
post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 01:56 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: South Africa JHB
Posts: 93
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by p2rider View Post
I'll be using dino for the first two services, one at 1000km and the next probably around 6-8000km, then move to synthetic. Wondering if I can use the Motorex 10w60 I bought for my dirtbike. I'd like to, because I have about 15L of the stuff and the dirtbike uses all of 1.4L at a time, but worried it may be too thick when hot. Big jump from 10w30 to 10w60.
10 w 60 will be good , its just has a wider heat range , rather a wider range muliti grade than a lower range (it keeps is viscosity more consistant at higher temperatures )
Rory is offline  
post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 01:05 PM
Member
 
xsilvergs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Dorset UK
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory View Post
10 w 60 will be good , its just has a wider heat range , rather a wider range muliti grade than a lower range (it keeps is viscosity more consistant at higher temperatures )
My bike uses oil in hot conditions ridden briskly on the road, I'd like to use a different oil as it goes be off the dipstick after 1,500 miles.
xsilvergs is offline  
post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 02:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 179
The bikes should be run in with Dino oil. Synthetic Oil from what I have ready is so effective at preventing wear by cushioning between parts, that it can prevent proper break in of parts like piston rings and main bearings, that need that initial wear in order to seat and mate properly together.
If this is true and your bike does not properly break in then theoretically you would not have proper clearances between parts wich could cause lack of compression or burning of oil
After the break in period you should be good to use as high quality as you would like.

Last edited by Dakota Morgan; 02-28-2017 at 02:07 PM.
Dakota Morgan is offline  
post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 07:57 PM
Member
 
LumirB46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 61
For Canadians, I would suggest the Motomaster full synthetic 5W40 from Canadian Tire. It doesn't have friction modifiers (not energy/resources conserving) and you can get 5 ltr jug on sale for as little as $26. It is actually rebranded Quaker State oil. I have it in my AT for past 1200 kms and works great...

2016 Honda Africa Twin
2009 BMW R1200RT (sold)
LumirB46 is offline  
post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 10:15 AM
Senior Member
 
eltel62's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Ireland
Posts: 479
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by LumirB46 View Post
For Canadians, I would suggest the Motomaster full synthetic 5W40 from Canadian Tire. It doesn't have friction modifiers (not energy/resources conserving) and you can get 5 ltr jug on sale for as little as $26. It is actually rebranded Quaker State oil. I have it in my AT for past 1200 kms and works great...
But the difference is in most motorcycles the engine and gearbox oil are one and the same, unlike most cars and trucks which are seperate and use two completely different types of oils. So putting this motomaster stuff in your bike will not be a great idea. There will be no high presure additives in this oil designed for the extreme pressure of a gearbox, your gearbox will be doomed eventually, possibly sooner rather than later. Only use oil designed for motorbikes.

250X7 (first bike 17 years old, T-Boned it in 3 weeks), CB250K4 (needed wheels), CB350K4 (last wheels needed replacing, ran engine without oil after rebuild, DOH!), T500 (didnt handle, didn't care, 2-stroke smoke - EPIC!), 883 Sportster (oh dear, mistake), 1340 Lowrider Covertible (stolen before a year old), Daytona 1200 (heavy, 147BHP mad lump), DR350 (reliable small thumper), CRF1000 (love it)
eltel62 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome