Anybody check yet on oil? - Page 3 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 11:50 AM
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I buy 25 litres of Westway (Premium UK brand used in workshops and agriculture), for £60-00 I have just done my 8000 mile oil change and it came out in very good shape, This oil exceeds all the specs required by Honda. I really don't think you need to be sucked into using big name brands, The AT isn't exactly a race engine, its very understressed and low revving, a decent semi-synthetic to Honda spec will be fine for zillions of miles..
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 01:09 PM
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This oil exceeds all the specs required by Honda - no it doesn't

If it is a regular engine oil from these guys, fully synthetic or not, it will not be designed for your gearbox. That is why Westway have engine oil and separate transmission and gearbox oil for their clients who will all have separate engine and gearboxes. If their regular engine oil was so good for gearboxes they wouldn't bother having gearbox/transmission oil. Your AT requires and oil for the engine and gearbox together and has a completely different requirement that the oil you are using. Ask ask them, if they are anyway half decent they will tell you it is not suitable for your engine. As for saying the oil is fine, how do you know? You can lubricate any surface with virtually any liquid, I could put full fat milk in my engine and it will lubricate it, it wont last but I could blat off down the road at 100MPH and the engine will work (might be a tad frothy). Change your oil for a type designed for motorcycles if you want your gearbox to last.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 04:47 PM
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it is specifically designed for motorcycles, and yes it does meet or exceed the requirements laid down in the Honda workshop manual. I am now 52 and have done 100% of the servicing, maintenance, tuning, restoration and modification on all of my vehicles since I was 7. I am fully conversant with how a motorcycle engine works as I have rebuilt dozens over the years, i'm also pretty handy with turbos and diesels. How do I know it's fine ?. When I carry out a top end service or full strip, i inspect and measure all the components and guess what they are all fine. Obviously I use the correct lubricant for each given application.... Let me know how you get on with the milk...
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-21-2017, 05:06 PM
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I have a question on warranty. If you use other than recommended oil in your new bike and something screws up with the clutch, trans or motor are you screwing your self?

Also the price of Honda GN4 oil is not that much more than a name brand oil. If you read the back of the oil jug on GN4 it has some really good info on why regular car oil is not sufficient. This is my first new bike in 35 years of riding and I plan on keeping it for a long time to come! Honda oil it is for me.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by matteeee View Post
it is specifically designed for motorcycles, and yes it does meet or exceed the requirements laid down in the Honda workshop manual. I am now 52 and have done 100% of the servicing, maintenance, tuning, restoration and modification on all of my vehicles since I was 7. I am fully conversant with how a motorcycle engine works as I have rebuilt dozens over the years, i'm also pretty handy with turbos and diesels. How do I know it's fine ?. When I carry out a top end service or full strip, i inspect and measure all the components and guess what they are all fine. Obviously I use the correct lubricant for each given application.... Let me know how you get on with the milk...
Oh fine, can you point me to the product they do for motorcycles then, no mention of a motorcycle oil on thieir website? That is the crux of it, exactly which product of theirs are you using that is designed for a modern motorcycles combined engine/gearbox? You are a bit defensive, I have no knowledge of your engineering skills or experience and have not questioned that, just your chooice of oil, unless it is one they don't show on their website of course..
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 05:34 AM
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Always amazes me that people can spend £11000 on a bike than try to save a few quid at oil change time.Just use a good 10/30 motorcycle oil,as recommended by Honda.They built the thing,I reckon they know a lot more than all us petrochemical engineers .
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 05:40 AM
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Westway do certainly offer a range of specific motorcycle oils, fully synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral based. I couldn't see them on their website either, but they can readily be found on Ebay. I'm guessing either of these would be OK in the AT. I agree with Stromcat to some extent, but I wonder whether the 'Honda' branded oil is really any better - or just a lot more expensive!
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-22-2017, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigerjohn View Post
Westway do certainly offer a range of specific motorcycle oils, fully synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral based. I couldn't see them on their website either, but they can readily be found on Ebay. I'm guessing either of these would be OK in the AT. I agree with Stromcat to some extent, but I wonder whether the 'Honda' branded oil is really any better - or just a lot more expensive!
Well cool, I stand corrected Matteee. Perhaps you can share with us where you purchase 25ltr drums for £60. You might of expanded your last post somewhat and stated that you are using their JASO spec motorcycle engine oil. My apologies.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-21-2019, 07:15 PM
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Take the skid plate off. You will see the two drain bolts (14 mm I think...)

The reason there are two drain bolts is because the crank and transmission are separated in the engine housing and it wouldn't drain completely if there was only 1 drain bolt.

don't use synthetic oil for break-ins. Use basic cheap conventional oil, and drive the bike 500 miles with a lot of compression braking when stopping. This will put pressure down on the piston rings and help seal them. Then change the oil, filter and use synthetic non parafin based oil that is at least 10w-30 or greater in weight. Stay away from Penzoil.

Oil:

I have experimented around a lot with different oils. The best results were with the Delvac 15w-50 diesel oil, then do 1/2 quart of the Lucas stabilizer. Thick and gooey is what you want and the bike loves it. DO NOT run 5-30, or anything that thin.


by "Results" I mean the way the oil breaks down, and compression checks directly after an oil change (yes I'm a freak mechanic I did compression testing to see which oil had better seal on the rings)

The AT capacity is 4.5 US quarts. I think the DCT has a slightly higher oil capacity. I have the regular transmission.
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-22-2019, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveinKansas View Post
Take the skid plate off. You will see the two drain bolts (14 mm I think...)

The reason there are two drain bolts is because the crank and transmission are separated in the engine housing and it wouldn't drain completely if there was only 1 drain bolt.

don't use synthetic oil for break-ins. Use basic cheap conventional oil, and drive the bike 500 miles with a lot of compression braking when stopping. This will put pressure down on the piston rings and help seal them. Then change the oil, filter and use synthetic non parafin based oil that is at least 10w-30 or greater in weight. Stay away from Penzoil.

Oil:

I have experimented around a lot with different oils. The best results were with the Delvac 15w-50 diesel oil, then do 1/2 quart of the Lucas stabilizer. Thick and gooey is what you want and the bike loves it. DO NOT run 5-30, or anything that thin.


by "Results" I mean the way the oil breaks down, and compression checks directly after an oil change (yes I'm a freak mechanic I did compression testing to see which oil had better seal on the rings)

The AT capacity is 4.5 US quarts. I think the DCT has a slightly higher oil capacity. I have the regular transmission.
The engine and transmission share the same oil in the AT and yes the two different compartments need to be drained with the two different drain plugs otherwise you wont get it all out. I am not sure I would be sticking in any home brew mixes with a wet clutch if you want it to survive for the long term. The Honda oil specs are mainly about having a usable wet clutch while still maintaining good oil flow to the engine and transmission especially on start up. Thick and gooey does not sound like an engine life saver on start up to me.
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