*Controversial* Front Tire/Wheel Rotation - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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*Controversial* Front Tire/Wheel Rotation

Hello AT Forum,

Up front allow me to say I know this may be a controversial thread. That said I have an idea/plan and would like constructive feedback. After all that's one of the reasons for having a forum so please let's keep it positive.

In short I want to maximize front tire life and I think rotating the wheel should be a viable option with the ATs this of course assumes the thread pattern is effectively bi-directional (regardless of what the side wall states). For example a TKC80, Mitas E-09 or a GT723. I know the first thing people will likely baulk at is running a tire contrary to the direction arrow. I'm convinced this shouldn't be an issue regardless of the lay of the plys due to the fact tire manufacturers surly design in more than adequate factors of safety and have allowed for this scenario. I recognize the AT is a relatively large motorcycle that said we operate as marginal speeds both on and off road. (Unlike a +200HP MotoGP bike for example). Another reason I think this is doable is it appears as if the front wheel is evenly spaced with the same size bushings so it looks like a prime candidate to spin around. All I would need to do is purchase another left side rotor and ring pulser and replace the right side rotor. So say every 1,000 miles rotate the wheel and thus the tire. As opposed to spooning the tire off and on every 1,000 miles or do nothing and settle for premature tire wear.

What do you guys think?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoStu View Post
Hello AT Forum,

Up front allow me to say I know this may be a controversial thread. That said I have an idea/plan and would like constructive feedback. After all that's one of the reasons for having a forum so please let's keep it positive.

In short I want to maximize front tire life and I think rotating the wheel should be a viable option with the ATs this of course assumes the thread pattern is effectively bi-directional (regardless of what the side wall states). For example a TKC80, Mitas E-09 or a GT723. I know the first thing people will likely baulk at is running a tire contrary to the direction arrow. I'm convinced this shouldn't be an issue regardless of the lay of the plys due to the fact tire manufacturers surly design in more than adequate factors of safety and have allowed for this scenario. I recognize the AT is a relatively large motorcycle that said we operate as marginal speeds both on and off road. (Unlike a +200HP MotoGP bike for example). Another reason I think this is doable is it appears as if the front wheel is evenly spaced with the same size bushings so it looks like a prime candidate to spin around. All I would need to do is purchase another left side rotor and ring pulser and replace the right side rotor. So say every 1,000 miles rotate the wheel and thus the tire. As opposed to spooning the tire off and on every 1,000 miles or do nothing and settle for premature tire wear.

What do you guys think?

Takes about 15 minutes to swap the rotors, why bother with the not insignificant expense of another rotor.
Correct torque settings and threadlock and the occasional new bolts would get the job done.
Assume you mean this for knobbly tyres.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Takes about 15 minutes to swap the rotors, why bother with the not insignificant expense of another rotor.
Correct torque settings and threadlock and the occasional new bolts would get the job done.
Assume you mean this for knobbly tyres.
Yes, correct. For knobbies. That is a great suggestion. I had not considered that. Thank you
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:58 AM
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Yes, correct. For knobbies. That is a great suggestion. I had not considered that. Thank you
Would keep the rotor wear even as well, no need to move pads back each time you switched either.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 03:13 PM
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As a previous KLR guy, I always bought uni directional tires, and 'flipped' then many times. Never had a problem. The KLR is notorious for chewing up front tires, possibly due to it's weak and 'flexy' forks.
I'm relatively new to the AT, but it sounds like it would be much easier to follow Skimmer's suggestion.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-12-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Rubicon Al View Post
As a previous KLR guy, I always bought uni directional tires, and 'flipped' then many times. Never had a problem. The KLR is notorious for chewing up front tires, possibly due to it's weak and 'flexy' forks.
I'm relatively new to the AT, but it sounds like it would be much easier to follow Skimmer's suggestion.
I intend to. Roll another 520 miles and I'll try it. I'll post how it goes. My intention is to rotate every 1,000 miles. Thanks for the feedback gents.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:07 AM
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On the NC750X you were supposed to chuck the disk bolts away every time you had 'used' them. They were £45 per set for the Honda ones IIRC. But I noticed I think that the AT manual doesn't tell you to bin them. Having said that it might be pushing it to reuse them 5 or 6 times?, and if you regularly bought two sets of genuine Honda bolts you'd soon waste all the money you'd save on new tyres
Mike
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mike5100 View Post
On the NC750X you were supposed to chuck the disk bolts away every time you had 'used' them. They were £45 per set for the Honda ones IIRC. But I noticed I think that the AT manual doesn't tell you to bin them. Having said that it might be pushing it to reuse them 5 or 6 times?, and if you regularly bought two sets of genuine Honda bolts you'd soon waste all the money you'd save on new tyres
Mike

Honda probably do have an instruction for the mechanics to renew bolts when renewing discs that could have been fitted a great many years before. Usual scenario with steel into alloy is corrosion which will require considerable more force to remove them than the torque figure required to fit them in which case new bolts makes perfect sense.
On my older race bikes they generally came with tab washers on both the discs and the rear sprockets to facilitate removal.
When I shifted the discs from my OE wheels to my 19/17 combo they undid with no extra pressure so never considered not using them again.
A smidgen of threadlock and evenly tightened to the correct torque should never stress high tensile bolts.
Ti bolts are a different kettle of fish altogether.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skimmer View Post
Honda probably do have an instruction for the mechanics to renew bolts when renewing discs that could have been fitted a great many years before. Usual scenario with steel into alloy is corrosion which will require considerable more force to remove them than the torque figure required to fit them in which case new bolts makes perfect sense.
On my older race bikes they generally came with tab washers on both the discs and the rear sprockets to facilitate removal.
When I shifted the discs from my OE wheels to my 19/17 combo they undid with no extra pressure so never considered not using them again.
A smidgen of threadlock and evenly tightened to the correct torque should never stress high tensile bolts.
Ti bolts are a different kettle of fish altogether.
Agreed. At 42 And 20 N*m respectively (rear-front), I see no need to replace the ALOC's, that torque is low, I think they just want to be sure that the threadlocker is used.
As they say in the KLR community, Blue is your friend.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Today, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Great feedback guys. I appreciate it
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