Front end bounce - Page 2 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Torque Request View Post
Make sure the front axle is seated properly and that the forks are not binding. I recently replace the tires and had the same thing, along with the front end popping up from a stop, I went thru the front wheel mounting procedure again making sure to really compress the forks before tightening the pinch bolts and they are both gone.

Torque Request- When you say you compressed the forks before tightening the pinch bolts, do you mean you didn't tighten the left pinch bolts AT ALL before tightening the axle bolt? The manual calls for tightening the left pinch bolts, then the axle, then loosening the left pinch bolts, tightening the right ones and then tightening the left ones again. I have the same bounce issue after changing the tires.and I'm wondering if doing the axle first might help as you suggest, but wanted to make sure I was understanding your post.
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Cptlaws View Post
Torque Request- When you say you compressed the forks before tightening the pinch bolts, do you mean you didn't tighten the left pinch bolts AT ALL before tightening the axle bolt? The manual calls for tightening the left pinch bolts, then the axle, then loosening the left pinch bolts, tightening the right ones and then tightening the left ones again. I have the same bounce issue after changing the tires.and I'm wondering if doing the axle first might help as you suggest, but wanted to make sure I was understanding your post.
You can torque the axle nut without tightening any axle pinch bolts
if you use a hex bit to keep the axle from spinning while torqueing to spec.
The installation steps from the manual: with the assumption you are not using a 17 mm hex bit to hold the axle- you are using the RHS pinch bolts instead.
If you use a hex bit to torque the axle nut, you can skip to step 4.
The point is to align the RHS fork with the LHS fork fixed.

1. Tighten the right front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.
2. Install and tighten the axle nut to the specified torque.
3. Loosen the right front axle holder pinch bolts.
4. Tighten the left front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.
5. Install the front brake calipers.

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and
down several times to seat the axle and check brake operation.


6. Tighten the right front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.


ED model: Install the axle cap.
Check the clearance gap between the front wheel
speed sensor bracket and pulser ring (page 20-21).
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2016 CRF1000LD, '15 NC700XD, '14 CTX700ND
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 11:57 PM
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I followed the manual directions (which i find much more complicated than any "dirt bike" that I have ever had). When time to compress the forks I started the engine and gave it some good compressions under throttle. Finished tightening per the manual.

I think originally that I missed one of the tightening/loosening steps of the pinch bolts (as I would have on any of my dirt bikes) and I was weak on the compress step (much easier to do on a dirt bike).

100 mies of mixed terrain and I no longer feel the front wheel hop at slower speeds or the front end popping up when acceleration from a stop.
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Last edited by Torque Request; 07-12-2019 at 11:59 PM.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 08:40 AM
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Great advice here. I had no issues with the stock dunlops. I had bounce around 30mph and 70+mph once I fitted the motoz GPS so I thought surly it must be balancing..... Nope. Had some loose spokes, nope. Ran lower pressures... Better. Finally played with suspension. I softened front compression and maxed rear preload. My 70+ went away (that was the one bothering me the most) the 30 is still there. I'm just living with it at this point. It's unaffected by anything other than speed. (neutral, gear) tho it goes away under braking. From looking closely while spinning the front rim, I think there's a flat spot causing it. I did properly seat the axle.

Just my experience, not much help, but I'll be curious to see what my next set of tires do..... Or I may need some wheel work.
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 02:11 PM
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Hi people, I registered juuust to take part in the discussion here. I had a similar problem on a used AT I test drove at a dealer, it had a similar bounce (up and down) from the forks at the same speed as the OP. I was wondering if this was just this particular bike or some kind of quirk. The bike felt stable on the highway but on smooth pavement I had that bounce, it has shinko 804/805 tires so quite knobby.. I'm at the point where I'm not sure to get the bike because of that and try to work the quick out, because everything else seemed fine to me.
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 03:31 AM
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DCTFan posted a pretty good guide on how to fix it, also Shinko's are the ****, probably the best tire to get other than Bridgestone Battlax AX41's for a 50/50 tire. If the bike is a good deal, I would get it because the problem seems to be a quick fix.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCTFAN View Post
You can torque the axle nut without tightening any axle pinch bolts
if you use a hex bit to keep the axle from spinning while torqueing to spec.
The installation steps from the manual: with the assumption you are not using a 17 mm hex bit to hold the axle- you are using the RHS pinch bolts instead.
If you use a hex bit to torque the axle nut, you can skip to step 4.
The point is to align the RHS fork with the LHS fork fixed.

1. Tighten the right front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.
2. Install and tighten the axle nut to the specified torque.
3. Loosen the right front axle holder pinch bolts.
4. Tighten the left front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.
5. Install the front brake calipers.

With the front brake applied, pump the forks up and
down several times to seat the axle and check brake operation.


6. Tighten the right front axle holder pinch bolts to the specified torque.


ED model: Install the axle cap.
Check the clearance gap between the front wheel
speed sensor bracket and pulser ring (page 20-21).

Will give that a try. I too experience the same bouncing at the front end at slower speeds. Swapped bikes with my brother yesterday (FZ8) his front end felt like it was a bowling ball going over a perfect surface, my 2019 AT felt like it was going over a rough batch of road though it was new pavement. Fingers crossed, love this bike so much but that it annoying a low speeds. Initially I even thought it was from the engine compression when letting off the throttle, but even when pulling the clutch I'd still get that front bounce.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:43 PM
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I had the front end bounce also and I called Honda customer service last week about when my fuel pump may arrive and in the process asked about the front end bounce and he said following those torque guidelines above may help that bounce. Mine had loose axle pinch bolts that someone failed to tighten and I did it myself before I had read the repair manual. I saw another post here somewhere and that guy claimed all 21 in. Wheels are prone to that.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chasdog View Post
I had the front end bounce also and I called Honda customer service last week about when my fuel pump may arrive and in the process asked about the front end bounce and he said following those torque guidelines above may help that bounce. Mine had loose axle pinch bolts that someone failed to tighten and I did it myself before I had read the repair manual. I saw another post here somewhere and that guy claimed all 21 in. Wheels are prone to that.
I've ridden quite a few bikes with 21" wheels and can't say I've experienced this on any other bike before.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 09:06 AM
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Yea seems to me if it’s perfectly round it shouldn’t be hopping up and down. My atas would do it even in neutral while coasting. The dealer said it was out of balance and hopefully it’s fixed now. I will know once it gets its new fuel pump.
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