TKC 80's Front only - Page 3 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
 10Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 02:31 PM
Senior Member
 
black99S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 335
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banzaibrothers View Post
Thanks for the info guys. I like the idea of TKC80 front and Mitas E07+ rear. Think I look into that combination some more.
First tyres on the bike were TKC80's. Rear lasted 8,000km
Replaced the rear with a Mitas E-10 Dakar. Lasted 6,500km; was advertised to wear longer than TKC. Probably more rock riding and heavier throttle hand

Re-shoed with Mitas E-10 Dakar front with E07+ rear. Amazed at the good handling on and off-road in dry-dusty and wet weather, though E-07+ will slide sideways on wet grass and mud. E-10 front has a rounder profile then the TKC and rolls into corners better. It's also a much stiffer tyre so better rim protection at fast speed on rocky FSR's.

Swapped out the E07+ at 6,000km (it was Ĺ worn) with an E-10 to take a Chris Birch course - wanted knobby rear. That E-10 is toast at 4.000km - the rocks in Squamish and Harrison Last / Kookipi are brutal on tyres - and I'm riding a lost faster.

I've just ordered a new set of TKC80s - front and rear - want to see how traction compares with the Mitas.
black99S is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 03:24 PM
Member
 
DiscoStu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banzaibrothers View Post
Can I ask why no-one seems keen on TKC80 on the rear? Is it just the wear rate?

I was going to fit TKC80's front and back. The tread looks right to me. I'm more interested in off-road performance but still have to get there with long(ish) distances on-road.

The Motoz Adv seems too little tread whilst the HybX seems too much like a knobbly.

Anyone used the Rallz?

Many thanks,

Mike.
Yes. I just spooned on MotoZ Rallz this past Saturday (front and rear). Plan to hit off road this coming weekend to see how they perform. Having use the tractionator Adv on the rear before and the similarities I expect the rear will hook up like a champ. That said here in SoCal with our lovely highways (crappy CJs and rain grooves) the front has pretty poor road manners compared to the GT-723 I just had. On normal roads though it is fine. She straightens out but the front is definitely a lot more squirrelier on the highways here. More to follow.
DiscoStu is offline  
post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-25-2019, 09:38 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Waikato, New Zealand
Posts: 217
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banzaibrothers View Post
Have read that the Mitas E07+ is near impossible to get off/on with tyre levers. Maybe I'm back to a TKC80 on the rear
I have used tyre levers to get off/on an E07 (non-Dakar version) and it was pretty easy, I'm doubtful that the E07+ would be all that different unless it is the Dakar version.

My super easy method that I currently use to change tyres: Put bike on centre stand, remove rear wheel, put wheel into the boot of my car and drive to the motorcycle shop where my new tyre is waiting, give them the wheel and let them change the tyres over and balance the wheel, take wheel home and re-fit to the bike. This costs me only NZ$10 (around US$6) and is fantastic value.
KiwiMark is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 03:49 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 25
Thanks for all the input.

Black99S and DiscoStu - interested to hear what you both think about your new treads when you get some more time in.

KiwiMark - I'm not sure your 'super easy' method quite calms my worries of a trailside change - but I like your style
Banzaibrothers is offline  
post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 05:50 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by KiwiMark View Post
I have used tyre levers to get off/on an E07 (non-Dakar version) and it was pretty easy, I'm doubtful that the E07+ would be all that different unless it is the Dakar version.

The E07 in 140/80-17 non-Dakar (on a friend's AT 750) can be got off/on without much problem but I believe the E07+ has much stiffer side walls, even in the non-Dakar version. A friend did put it on a KTM1190 and mentioned he could use tyre pressures down to 1 bar off road with no worries - and all this on his KTM with "chocolate" wheels. I asked on another thread and am asking again here: has anybody managed to get an inner tube replaced on a E07+ non-Dakar rear tyre on the side of the road?
XLGeorge is online now  
post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 02:38 PM
Senior Member
 
black99S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 335
Quote:
Originally Posted by XLGeorge View Post
The E07 in 140/80-17 non-Dakar (on a friend's AT 750) can be got off/on without much problem but I believe the E07+ has much stiffer side walls, even in the non-Dakar version. A friend did put it on a KTM1190 and mentioned he could use tyre pressures down to 1 bar off road with no worries - and all this on his KTM with "chocolate" wheels.

I asked on another thread and am asking again here: has anybody managed to get an inner tube replaced on a E07+ non-Dakar rear tyre on the side of the road?
I have run both the 150/70-18 E-07+ non-Dakar and E-10 Dakar. Mounted them with the shop's tyre machine. Of the two, I feared a rear flat with the E-10. I have both take-offs in the garage and the E-10 is the stiffer tyre; 3-ply sidewall, 5-ply tread.

Yes, I've replaced a tube roadside after a recent nail puncture on the E-10. One hour 15min from starting to unpack tools to riding away. Motion-Pro bead breakers are a must. Motion Pro Alu wrench-tyre levers. Could have used a bead buddy - hardest part is keeping the bead in the drop when levering back on. I use saddle soap as lube (i'm applying it in the pic - carry in a small pill container). Lube both sides before remounting and carry a portable air compressor - takes about 60psi to get the bead to pop.

I carry a piece of Tyvek building paper to use under the tyre and some cut up strips from a yogurt container lid to protect the rim from the levers. In this case I found a closed tyre shop with an air hose and a pallet which made the job a bit easier.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	down - 1.jpg
Views:	32
Size:	402.8 KB
ID:	50497   Click image for larger version

Name:	down - 1 (1).jpg
Views:	34
Size:	397.5 KB
ID:	50499  
XLGeorge and Banzaibrothers like this.
black99S is offline  
post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-26-2019, 06:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banzaibrothers View Post
Derek, what are the Motoz tyres like to mount? Thanks.
A fair bit tougher than TKC80s but not impossible. The sidewalls are more heavy duty than many others, but it's doable. I change the tyres on my bike myself using the tools I would use in the field so that I know what to expect should I get a puncture in the middle of nowhere and tbh I'd much prefer to fix a puncture on a TKC80 than a Tractionator - front or rear. But having said that, the Tractionator is a much heavier duty tyre and that's probably why I've never had a puncture with a tractionator. FWIW, I've run Tractionator ADV and GPS and they seem to last forever - especially the GPS.
Banzaibrothers likes this.
Derek Dust is offline  
post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 09:21 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by black99S View Post
Yes, I've replaced a tube roadside after a recent nail puncture on the E-10. One hour 15min from starting to unpack tools to riding away. Motion-Pro bead breakers are a must. Motion Pro Alu wrench-tyre levers. Could have used a bead buddy - hardest part is keeping the bead in the drop when levering back on. I use saddle soap as lube (i'm applying it in the pic - carry in a small pill container). Lube both sides before remounting and carry a portable air compressor - takes about 60psi to get the bead to pop.
Well done to have managed to change the inner tube in such a hard tyre, but this is not something anybody could do on the side of the road, even with the right tools. I also have Motion Pro bead breakers, rim protectors and good levers with a tube extension to allow me to apply more torque, also carry a part of a broken up cardboard box to work on and work gloves. The most difficult part is keeping the bead in the centre and I typically do this with my knees but just ordered the Motion Pro bead buddy 2 (did not know such a thing existed, tnx! - I had used pieces of wood on one occasion in the past).

Something else: I found that for stubborn tyres the Motion Pro bead breakers will only work after one has pushed down the tyre with the side stand, which requires a centre stand or a colleague's second bike, I include a picture of doing this in my garage.


Last edited by XLGeorge; 09-27-2019 at 09:29 AM.
XLGeorge is online now  
post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 02:49 PM
Senior Member
 
black99S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 335
Quote:
Originally Posted by XLGeorge View Post
Well done to have managed to change the inner tube in such a hard tyre, but this is not something anybody could do on the side of the road, even with the right tools. I also have Motion Pro bead breakers, rim protectors and good levers with a tube extension to allow me to apply more torque, also carry a part of a broken up cardboard box to work on and work gloves. The most difficult part is keeping the bead in the centre and I typically do this with my knees but just ordered the Motion Pro bead buddy 2 (did not know such a thing existed, tnx! - I had used pieces of wood on one occasion in the past).

Something else: I found that for stubborn tyres the Motion Pro bead breakers will only work after one has pushed down the tyre with the side stand, which requires a centre stand or a colleague's second bike, I include a picture of doing this in my garage.
The key to breaking the bead with the MotionPro bead breakers is to work the 'fork' in until it is hard against the rim - usually takes a couple of squeezes, then to jam in a tyre iron to hold the bead partially down so you can take the next bite. If you don't get the fork touching the rim you loose the spreading effect where you need it most - right at the rim. The safety bead on the AT rear (and any other rim with the safety bead) takes a bit of going back and forth.

You shouldn't need extensions on tyre levers if you keep the bead in the drop as you work around the tyre -- and never pull the lever past vertical when levering the tyre on to ensure no chance of pinching the tube.
superfunkomatic and XLGeorge like this.
black99S is offline  
post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-11-2019, 07:43 PM
Junior Member
 
PapaToe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 4
E07+ on Front?

Just wondering, has anyone tried the Mitas E07+ on the front?

Am in the process of changing out the OEM tires.. I just ordered a E07+ for the rear and the TKC80 for the front. They haven't come yet and am debating whether the TKC is the right choice..

Also, anyone know if there is a resource out there comparing the weights of dual-sport/enduro tires. For example what is the difference in weight between the E07+ and Shinko 805 (rear)?

Last edited by PapaToe; 11-11-2019 at 08:00 PM.
PapaToe is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome