You don't have to tap a wire. You can use the rear 4 pin connector to trigger voltage.

Yes but to do so you need to source the Sumitomo connector and then crimp the wires correctly, which is kind of a pain. The nice thing about the PC8 is that it comes preterminated with the right connector and power leads of the correct length for the AT.

Ok i'm going to start an Eastern Beaver panel install today. I'm also fitting Kozo heated grips, the power outlet socket in the dash and another Givi power outlet. I've got the seat off so far........

You should be done by now!

Ok, not bad progress for today. Got the PC8 kit wired to the bike and tested. Fitted my 12 socket outlet to the dash. Fitted the throttle heated grip.
F***ups so far. Tried to gouge a rebate into the throttle heated grip to fit snug over the throttle twist grip flange. Not a good idea the wire element of the heated grip starts VERY close to the end of the grip at that end. Fitted the grip no problem with some rubber soution onto the throttle twist finishing the last couple of centimetres with a hammer and a suitably sized socket. I might need a little more trimming on the end when i re fit the end weight and test the operation of the throttle.
Remaining to complete; Fit left heated grip and test grips. Connect 12v socket and Givi outlet to PC8. I have to join the wires that came with these also to extend thier reach to the PC8. Re fit front fairing parts without breaking anything! LOL.

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I am looking at fuse block options, the PC8 is the front runner the the moment. I never bothered on my wee (just ran one 12v plug), but for the AT I am planning heated grips/jacket/bat tender/accessory plug,maybe aux lights. The AT specific kit will keep the wiring rats nest under control with the added benefit of not having to tap into the bikes wiring. I flirted with making my own harness but by the time I sourced the proper parts and cobbled it together I don't think the savings would be worth the headache plus there would be wires everywhere (much the same reason I don't want the 3CS).
All the install photos I have seen of the PC8 show it under the seat, does the prewired kit have enough wire included to mount it under the passenger seat? I know the unit will fit (I cut a chunk of 2x3 to the same size as a denali powerhub 2 and tested the fit - slow winter day). Under the passenger seat is less accessible but in my experience if wired correctly blown fuses are not a big issue and it would tuck the fuze block and wires out of the way. Removing 2 bolts to get at fuze block is a minor inconenience if necessary.

No. The battery cables are cut to length such that the unit fits in the sloping part of the forward underseat well. However, the wires connect to the PC8 with ring terminals so you could fabricate your own easily enough. Or ask Jim at Eastern Beaver if he'll custom make longer cables for you.

my pc8 install

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I just received my order for two PC8's to install on my AT and my Honda ST1300. Besides using them for the obvious reason, I am going to use them as a way to easily jump start my bikes when that becomes necessary. The AT battery is not convenient to access, and neither is the ST1300 battery to a lesser degree. I am going to connect the PC8 to the battery with fused 8 AWG wires. Also, I'm going to screw the PC8 tops down with m4-0.7x9mm thumb screws. That way, I can more easily jump start my bikes using the PC8 terminal (particularly the positive terminal), and without the need for any tools. (I'm locating the PC8's underneath the seats.) I don't think the ground terminal on the PC8 would be good to clamp the jumper cable to because of its close physical proximity to a positive terminal. I should be able to find some other ground, but I could expose the ground wire from the battery in some way if that were necessary.

I have never checked but a starter is a series wound DC motor, how many amps it draws when cranking a 1 liter engine is the question.
Anybody ever put an ammeter in line when cold cranking their bike?
8 gauge copper wire is rated for 40 amps, the fuse provided by Eastern Beaver is a 30. I hate to have you find out the amp draw exceeds 30 amps if you are trying to use this as a jump starter. Using this as a helper to a low battery or to give the battery a charge is much more feasible but there is a reason they make battery jumper cables out of low gauge wire. Amp flow.
Using a solid point to attach the ground is wise, the electrons flow from the negative to the positive. So a solid ground not on the battery is the smart thing to do.

Real cheap jumper cables are made of 10 gauge wire, good ones are made of 2 gauge. The lower the number the higher ampacity.

Hope this helps