Electric Control Module - Page 2 - Honda CRF1000L Africa Twin Forum
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Old 07-29-2019, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ProCycle View Post
It's got nothing to do with balls and everything to do with being competitive in their own market.

If a car company only had a 1 year warranty how many cars would they sell? Yeah, not many because all the competition would be offering a lot more.
Motorcycle companies are no different but they are competing against each other. Where is the incentive for any of them to offer a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty?


Of course, Honda does have the balls to offer a 5 year warranty to anyone who has the balls to pay for it.
Oh Balls....gottcha.

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Old 07-29-2019, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuchulainn View Post
You can buy a 5-year unlimited mileage warranty for your Honda motorcycle if you choose to, but they don't offer it standard, for a number of reasons. ProCycle hit on one of them, nobody else is doing 5 years standard. I would guess price point, the average length of motorcycle ownership, wear and tear (how many times have you dropped your car in a parking lot?) and other factors play into this decision. But ProCycle probably hit the main one. If Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha increased their standard warranty to 4 years, others would surely follow.



But not all manufacturers will even offer OEM unlimited mileage warranties up to 5 years.
Oh balls. Car, bike, sales competition..... oh yea...BIG DIFFERENCE...uh huh.....gotcha.

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Old 07-29-2019, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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BMW Motorrad’s 3-year/36,000-mile ultimate warranty helps protect new motorcycle owners against the cost of repairs and replacement parts. Another great feature of this warranty is that it is transferrable to subsequent owners, during this time window.

Even Harley Davidson comes with a two year warranty that is transferable !!!!!!

With declining sales, maybe, just maybe the Japanese will soon catch on ??????????
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Old 07-29-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Can Ride View Post
BMW Motorrad’s 3-year/36,000-mile ultimate warranty helps protect new motorcycle owners against the cost of repairs and replacement parts. Another great feature of this warranty is that it is transferrable to subsequent owners, during this time window.



Even Harley Davidson comes with a two year warranty that is transferable !!!!!!



With declining sales, maybe, just maybe the Japanese will soon catch on ??????????
Can't do emoji here....so....thumbs up.

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Old 07-29-2019, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRobb View Post
Oh balls. Car, bike, sales competition..... oh yea...BIG DIFFERENCE...uh huh.....gotcha.

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I am not even sure what this response means

You want a longer warranty, buy a longer warranty.
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Last edited by Cuchulainn; 07-29-2019 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 07-29-2019, 08:01 PM
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I don't want balls from any company let alone Honda. Mine came with zero warranty.

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Old 07-30-2019, 03:54 PM
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DCT's typically check these for whether to leave neutral:

1) are RPM's too high or too low - does the display seem to match what the engine is doing.
2) is the sidestand down (doesn't match the symptom of working after sitting a while though)
3) oil pressure
4) oil level
5) engine temperature

Check all of these whether the shop said they checked them or not. Do you have to wait - or if you turn it all the way off with the key and try it again - will it restart?


Have you tried to reset the DCT?


DCT Reset Sequence CRF1000L DCT

1) Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (Engine oil temp 50-110C / 112-230F) then STOP it.
Note: If the large “L” (extremely low oil temp indicator) or small “L” (low oil temp indicator) is displayed on the shift indicator then the engine must be warmed up further before proceeding.

Stop the engine (Using the ignition key)
With the engine warmed up and STOPPED (Ignition off) —->

2) Turn the Ignition Switch ON (with engine stop switch in the run position) (do not start the engine) whilst at the same time holding down D on the N-D Switch. Keep holding the D switch on. The MIL will then come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and release the D switch.

3) Operate the N-D switch in the following sequence:
Push D then release
Push D
Push N
Push D
Push N

The PCM is ready to initialize the ‘clutches learning process’ when the “D” and “S” indicators light up AND the “_” is displayed on the shift indicator AND blinks at 2 second intervals.

Note: If at any point you get the Low oil temp indicator (“L”) come on, stop the process. START the engine, warm it back up to operating temperature (so that no low oil temp indicator is displayed), STOP the engine (Using the ignition key) and repeat steps 2 & 3 again.

4) Start the engine and let it idle. The “_” on the shift indicator will start blinking at 2 second intervals.
The Clutch initializing learning process is complete when “_” “D” and “S” indicators all go off.
STOP the engine (Using the ignition key)

Note: The clutch initialization learning process is unsuccessful if the “_” starts blinking at 0.5 sec intervals or goes off and the “D” and “S’ symbols stay on. If so, perform the initialization learning procedure from Step 2 again.

5) STOP the Engine (Using the ignition Key)
6) Restart the Engine, Push the D switch, release and check that the “D” indicator comes on. If it does... then you’re good to go!
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:24 PM
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It's just a shame y'all have to go through that. Especially if you're with buddies at a gas station.

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Old 07-30-2019, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Detjen View Post
DCT's typically check these for whether to leave neutral:

1) are RPM's too high or too low - does the display seem to match what the engine is doing.
2) is the sidestand down (doesn't match the symptom of working after sitting a while though)
3) oil pressure
4) oil level
5) engine temperature

Check all of these whether the shop said they checked them or not. Do you have to wait - or if you turn it all the way off with the key and try it again - will it restart?


Have you tried to reset the DCT?


DCT Reset Sequence CRF1000L DCT

1) Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature (Engine oil temp 50-110C / 112-230F) then STOP it.
Note: If the large “L” (extremely low oil temp indicator) or small “L” (low oil temp indicator) is displayed on the shift indicator then the engine must be warmed up further before proceeding.

Stop the engine (Using the ignition key)
With the engine warmed up and STOPPED (Ignition off) —->

2) Turn the Ignition Switch ON (with engine stop switch in the run position) (do not start the engine) whilst at the same time holding down D on the N-D Switch. Keep holding the D switch on. The MIL will then come on. Wait until the MIL goes off and release the D switch.

3) Operate the N-D switch in the following sequence:
Push D then release
Push D
Push N
Push D
Push N

The PCM is ready to initialize the ‘clutches learning process’ when the “D” and “S” indicators light up AND the “_” is displayed on the shift indicator AND blinks at 2 second intervals.

Note: If at any point you get the Low oil temp indicator (“L”) come on, stop the process. START the engine, warm it back up to operating temperature (so that no low oil temp indicator is displayed), STOP the engine (Using the ignition key) and repeat steps 2 & 3 again.

4) Start the engine and let it idle. The “_” on the shift indicator will start blinking at 2 second intervals.
The Clutch initializing learning process is complete when “_” “D” and “S” indicators all go off.
STOP the engine (Using the ignition key)

Note: The clutch initialization learning process is unsuccessful if the “_” starts blinking at 0.5 sec intervals or goes off and the “D” and “S’ symbols stay on. If so, perform the initialization learning procedure from Step 2 again.

5) STOP the Engine (Using the ignition Key)
6) Restart the Engine, Push the D switch, release and check that the “D” indicator comes on. If it does... then you’re good to go!

Is it safe to do this procedure on a DCT that is not currently exhibiting faults?



I've been wanting to reset mine as it gets pretty jerky at low speed and sometimes stalls when pulling off from a standstill. Would you recommend this?
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcoma View Post
Is it safe to do this procedure on a DCT that is not currently exhibiting faults?



I've been wanting to reset mine as it gets pretty jerky at low speed and sometimes stalls when pulling off from a standstill. Would you recommend this?
Yes - some people do it just to make the take off's smoother. First I would remove all slack from the throttle cable - to where there is no play at all. Ride by wire throttles all seem to be a bit jerky to me at the on off transition when there's any slack.
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