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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-23-2019 03:32 PM
HerrDeacon I did something very similar on my CB500X just using eBay and it ended up being very inexpensive and worked out great. I like the fuse box you went with though, mine worked fine but needed to put flat style disconnects on the end of each wire I wanted to connect.
06-23-2019 02:20 PM
RayCollington I am away from the bike at the moment but will post pictures when back home.

All I have done is follow the generic approach that Eastern Beaver has taken and used an inline fuse holder between the + on the AT battery to terminal 30 on a standard 4 terminal 40amp auto relay. Used the fuse box as shown.NB: in this case my six circuits are all ignition switched. Relay terminal 87 goes to the positive on the fuse box (this is the switched live). Relay terminal 85 goes to the fuse box - neutral, as does the AT battery - neutral. And relay terminal 86 is connected to the AT loom (ignition switched Sumitomo HM6.

If you watch the EB PC8 install video and wiring diagram, you will see how simple all this is. True, this solution only gives me switched lives as that is all I need. Permanent lives are easily taken from the fuse box + positive. Some cable, fuses, heat-shrink, terminals etc. The fuse box is available in different sizes, is marine spec and seems decent quality. This stuff is just eBay or Amazon.

I also nearly fitted an INNOVV PowerHub but didn't realise they have a permanent current draw.
06-23-2019 09:02 AM
MotoPumps Photos, or it didn't happen. :-)
06-22-2019 08:15 PM
Originally Posted by RayCollington View Post
Having looked at the various power options and nearly ordered a EB PC8 until I realised the price was in $ US, I decided to sort this easy task myself.

An inline fuse holder, relay, marine spec 6 way insulated return fuse box, a Sumitomo HM6 connector + some cable and connectors, all from Amazon/ebay for £35 GBP + one hour of my time, job done!
Go on, show us some pics now!
06-22-2019 02:08 PM
RayCollington Having looked at the various power options and nearly ordered a EB PC8 until I realised the price was in $ US, I decided to sort this easy task myself.

An inline fuse holder, relay, marine spec 6 way insulated return fuse box, a Sumitomo HM6 connector + some cable and connectors, all from Amazon/ebay for £35 GBP + one hour of my time, job done!
04-19-2019 03:53 PM
panton189 Hello, I'm new to the forum. Just purchased the Skleen rear tail light kit and would like to install it using the eastern beaver brake/tail adapter. Do I also require the PC-8 Fuse Panel from Eastern Beaver or is the adapter alone sufficient. Any clarification would be appreciated. Thanks
01-05-2019 10:15 AM
Squirrelly The Fuzeblock can be ordered with a set of battery tails that terminate on screw clamps on the FZ1.
it has a choice of switched or constant feeds to the items connected, you just move the fuse to suit. and connect to the screw clamps. You need to source a switched live wire, a Positap connector comes in the kit.

Relays. I'm 61 and have never... ever... had a failed relay in a lifetime of owning cars and bikes. Has anyone?
Even if by the very worst of luck it happens you can buy 2 FZ1s for the price of a PC8 once you've paid UK VAT, postage and customs duty.
01-03-2019 05:55 PM
Motobiker I only mentioned the Din/Hella plug because Im very familiar with them. but, they have a trick up their sleeve.

In the photo below.. there is a Din plug.. these almost always come with a red cap, most people think this is just some kind of protection, but what it actually is, is a converter.. click it onto the plug and the Din plug becomes a cigarette lighter (socket) plug.

Practically every Din plug you buy will come with this red cap.. because many more people (car drivers?) have power sockets in their cars and they are always cigarette lighter type.

for your "always live" socket you can just as easily use one of those if the Din isn't convenient.

something like this.. which has a 10A fuse.

or you can contact this chap and he will make one up for you exactly how you like.
01-03-2019 03:31 PM
Originally Posted by Maxply View Post
Fitting the PC8 is very easy if you buy the bike specific kit, and the instructions he provides are very good.
Wiring up the accessories is more taxing though, as you may want/need to remove various panels and possibly the tank (although I managed to fish the wires through without removing the tank).

Thanks, will probably try to snake the wires like you did instead of removing half the bike...

Originally Posted by Motobiker View Post
Assuming the bike you are buying has a standard lead/acid battery. I would combine 1&2 and fit a power socket that is identical to the one on my R1100GS.

This is an always live 15A fused DIN/Hella socket that is connected directly to the battery and is always 'live'. This means I can plug an optimate straight in to charge the battery. you can easily buy a DIN plug as an optional extra. it also means you will always have power available even with the engine switched off.. for items like a tyre pump. And you can easily fit a USB plug. I have one to keep my iPad charged when touring. (I dont own a smart phone)

main and only negative is that you need to remember to unplug anything that cannot be turned off if the bike is going to be stored. so.. pull that USB plug out... and plug the battery minder in.

Heated grips.. might as well be connected to the spare socket at the front end of the bike. and you might as well do the same for the lights If they're always on, rather than feed cables from the front end to under the seat

the Horn is a straight swap I believe.

TPMS that I have seen is battery powered and wirelessly connects to a smart phone... and I would very likely use the socket mentioned above for that.... with the phone on a mount at the heandlebars.

Im not sure that an eastern beaver PC8 is actually necessary. but then, its not my bike. the above is how I would do these things. I can certainly see the utility of the PC8 though.. and ive already watched one being fitted on YT and it seemed well within my own capabilities. and Im probably as inexperienced as you are. certainly it might be easier than using the front connector. But, even if I went down that route, I would still fit the 'always live' socket. because that is so much more handy than the OEM which has certain limitations.

Thanks very much Motobiker.

Yes itís a late 2017 model so with the old style battery.Interesting idea about the DIN/Hella, and a higher amp rating would be goodtoo. Though then Iíll need to carry a cigarette lighter to Hella adapter forthe GPS (car version tomtom) and a Hella to usb adapter for the phone etc. Willhave a think about this.

As for unplugging, not a problem! Living in London, if youdonít unplug something, someone else will do it for you! Haha, so I never leaveanything plugged in unless Iím riding.

The bike dealer had said he didnít recommend hooking upgrips to the spare front end socket. Not sure about the science behind it butpossibly too much power being drawn from the front assembly?

But you are right about the benefits of having a always livesocket, and Iíll keep this in mind. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Squirrelly View Post
Or save yourself £100 and buy an FZ1 Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans?

Thanks Squirelly. How does the FZ1 fuzeblock connect thought? Can you get the rear splitter since I have the GPS tracker or would I have to make something up myself? Also read that the relay is integrated, so if that blows, would have to change the whole thing?

I've rethought everything and might get away with just getting the Eastern Beaver 3CS, and save myself 50USD.
I can get the Honda OEM 12v socket and splitter for my fog lights, and then use the "always live" circuit on the 3CS for the battery charger. Hot grips will go onto one of the switched posts and then I'll have one spare. Decided for the Denali soundbomb mini so I won't have to rewire as it is plug and play.What do you guys think?

Should be enough for me. When I think I've done with just a 12v and battery charger on my Varadero for 7 years. These Honda engineers really did a great job. They made a bike everyone wants, but that everyone wants to upgrade constantly. It's like buying a Mercedes... "Yes please, I would love to have electric windows for 2000$"

And now a very dumb question... What do I need to get to connect plain stripped wires from fog lights or the hot grips to the 3CS? From the pictures I can't really tell, it's not like just screwing the wire down on the PC8.

Thanks in advance guys.
01-03-2019 08:54 AM
Squirrelly Or save yourself £100 and buy an FZ1 Fuzeblock from Nippy Normans?
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