|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-02-2019 02:25 AM|
|karol||@deltabi : thank you!|
|06-02-2019 01:50 AM|
: here you are, link to wiring diagram for MY2018- standard/adventure (DCT model)
|06-01-2019 02:37 AM|
@ all: I have to correct myself. the iPhone charger has two outputs; each can supply 2.4Amps.
@deltabi : thank you for your reply. Do you have some wiring diagrams of ATAS MY2018 you can share with me?
|05-31-2019 09:49 AM|
From MY2018 (standard and Adventure Sports) the OEM aux socket is connected directly in the main loom and not to the option port behind the instrument panel (which had a 2A fuse inline to the socket and is a nightmare to replace in case). Therefore the MY2018 12v OEM aux socket is protected by the 10A OPT fuse in the box under the seat.
I think you will not have any problem using the charger you described in a MY2018- Standard or Adventure AT.
|05-31-2019 09:19 AM|
does anybody know, what a fuse is used for the 12V OEM Aux socket (which comes, e.g. with ATAS MY2018)?
On the plug itself (in my case), there is a short information about power output 12V at 2A, so by applying the well known formula for DC, P(power) = U(voltage) x I(current), I assume, that the output power of the OEM AUX socket is approx. 24W. My issue is following --> I would like to use an 12V to 5V "cigarette" adapter to charge my iPhone, which has at the output 5V and is able to supply approx 2.4 Amps, what in turn means 24W (using the formula above again). Under the assumption, that the iPhone will draw 2.1 - 2.4Amps at 5V and fact, that the efficiency of such an adapter or more likely to say a DC/DC Converter is approx 92%. So it means, 24W/0.92=26W.is a power which will be drawn from the AUX in order to charge my iPhone. Assuming, that the board voltage may vary from 11.8 to 12.8V, the current draw from the battery would be approx. 2Amps. What I want to say is, that in my opinion, it should be safe to charge an iPhone from the AUX outlet on the dash, or am I completely wrong?
Do you have some experiences? I am looking for some advice ...
PS: I am also considering to use a rear option connector (6pin white) and to buy this kit from SW-Motech: EVO 2.0 electric top ring (unfortunately I am not able to place any links here)
Thank you for any hint or advice in advance!
|05-23-2019 12:43 PM|
Fuzeblock FZ 1 also works fine. By moving the fuses you can choose continuous or swiched power for outputs.
|05-22-2019 12:49 AM|
|deltadude||Got the fuse block Friday, looks good. I bought the longer extension so I can place FB under rear seat. I will say there is a lot of extra cable to deal with. Will try and post some pics later.|
|05-16-2019 03:36 AM|
Originally Posted by Tuono07 View Post
If you need to connect a second accesory with the OEM kit you have to buy the "sub harness kit" (link: https://ruggedroads.co.uk/epages/00c...ts/08U74MJPG50).
The OEM Socket Accessory kit has only one connector, the other white plastic "thing" you see in the images is the fuse holder (and because this will be under the fairings, don't blew it!).... see image below...
The "sub harness kit" (Y cable) add a second option connector that you can use for a second accessory.
|05-15-2019 09:44 PM|
Originally Posted by deltabi View Post
|05-15-2019 12:33 PM|
Ok, finally got an email this morning saying my part has shipped. Yep, it's kind of madding having to negotiate webpages that are not clearly laid out. Nothing on his main page or his shipping page has a tab or label saying "contact". I may have missed it but..... it shipped, so I'll see.
I like the idea of a main fuse block and not having wires hanging going to the battery. The AT is a bike that does not allow easy access to new wires being installed.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|