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So after a quick search Ive not found anyone talking about the simplicity of fitting the OEM 12v accessory socket and the minimal cost. Forgive me if this is common knowledge but the socket costs circa £15 from and dealer. Removing the left side fairing takes 5 mins. This is plug and play. The feed socket is already available. 10 mins and £15 and you’re sorted.
 

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Are you asking a question, or stating a fact?

I think many people installed other 12v sockets since they needed more wattage than what the stock socket supplies. I've got the stock socket installed (by previous owner) and it works fine to charge my mobile phone. But if you want to plug in an air compressor or other appliance which requires more watts (I can't remember the nominal amount), you'd need a different socket.
 

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So after a quick search Ive not found anyone talking about the simplicity of fitting the OEM 12v accessory socket and the minimal cost. Forgive me if this is common knowledge but the socket costs circa £15 from and dealer. Removing the left side fairing takes 5 mins. This is plug and play. The feed socket is already available. 10 mins and £15 and you’re sorted.
There is nothing simple or easy to install this accessory socket. First you must field strip the entire front of the bike to access the readily available plug. You might get one of the side fairing off in five minutes if you've done it a couple of times before, but if this is your first time to go under covers, expect a couple of hours. You can also buy an after market plug assembly for about half the Honda price Pounds or Dollars.

Later, Bud...
 

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And surely the other point that needs making is that the fuse (a piddly 2amp by the way) is buried behind all that plastic. So if you do blow it while you are out on a tour you’ve got a **** of a job to replace it. And also, I think my iPhone which is also my satnav needs 2.5 amps for fast charging (but probably wouldn’t blow the fuse by attempting to draw that much)
Many of us have fitted eastern Beaver harnesses under the seat (so the fuses are accessible). Mine currently has my Koso grips, my warmnsafe pigtail, and the 12v socket running off it. The kosos and socket are on the two switched outputs and the warmnsafe plug is on permanent. That way I can use that pigtail for a battery optimiser (but haven’t had to so far in 2 years)
Mike
 

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Yes. For my purposes the socket that came already installed on my Adventure Sport is a complete waste of time. It simply cannot cope with the items I want to power. I am forced to fit another.. Direct to the battery, Always live with a 15A fuse. And I'll be doing that fairly soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ha, I didn't actually think of the rating of the socket. I only wanted it for phone or camera charging. Oops. The OEM socket is only £15 from Honda which is pretty reasonable - I guess if you've stripped it down to access the OEM fitting point then just as easy to run a relay and mains feed and avoid the factory wiring. 2amp is pretty pointless - not something I checked unfortunately.
 

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18 and newer bikes are easier to install the oem socket. Honda revised the harness and plug in location. Plus it cost less for the newer bikes. It was a pain in the ass to install on my 17. The whole front end of the bike had to come apart to access the hidden plug in behind the gauges. Mine said 2 amp rated on the provided warning sticker but it had a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse holder on the provided harness. I'm not about to test that out because if the fuse pops I'll have to take to whole bike apart again to access the fuse location. Stupid design on the 16-17 model bikes IMO.
 

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18 and newer bikes are easier to install the oem socket. Honda revised the harness and plug in location. Plus it cost less for the newer bikes. It was a pain in the ass to install on my 17. The whole front end of the bike had to come apart to access the hidden plug in behind the gauges. Mine said 2 amp rated on the provided warning sticker but it had a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse holder on the provided harness. I'm not about to test that out because if the fuse pops I'll have to take to whole bike apart again to access the fuse location. Stupid design on the 16-17 model bikes IMO.
Interesting Roy. Thanks for this info. So is the fuse on the recent bikes more accessible too?
Mike
 

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I think Honda was almost forced to change how it was installed. When I first bought the bike and before reading this great forum and deciding to do it myself connected to the 3cs with a 15a fuse, I asked the dealer how much to add it on. He quoted 20 for the socket, 2 hours,!!! Of labour oh and also said I’d need the splitter, which I now know isn’t true(unless adding something else). Total cost about £200! I just laughed at him and said no thanks.
So maybe even the dealers told Honda they had to sort it out. Maybe if it was 30 min and half the cost I would have accepted, small business is better than no business
 

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Interesting Roy. Thanks for this info. So is the fuse on the recent bikes more accessible too?
Mike
Yes in a way. I think you have to only remove the left side panel is all.
Yes, they moved the 12V socket connection on the left side, behind the fairing in the upper zone. The 4-pin option connector behind the instrument panel is still there, anyway.
 

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In my view there was nothing easy about the installation of the 12V socket, from Honda. I have a 2017 model, and its just as well that I have a degree in Quantum Physics, because it came in hand in the removal of the outer and inner fairing. Additionally, my experience as a Micro Surgeon came in handy, as I tried to access the connectors under the display. Probably took me ~ 4hrs time, but admittedly that did include installation of Baja Designs LED Squadron Lights. Not a fun job :frown2
 

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Yes, they moved the 12V socket connection on the left side, behind the fairing in the upper zone. The 4-pin option connector behind the instrument panel is still there, anyway.
The 4 pin plug is Sumitomo HM 090. What type of plug is the new one on the left side?
 

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And surely the other point that needs making is that the fuse (a piddly 2amp by the way) is buried behind all that plastic. So if you do blow it while you are out on a tour you’ve got a **** of a job to replace it. And also, I think my iPhone which is also my satnav needs 2.5 amps for fast charging (but probably wouldn’t blow the fuse by attempting to draw that much)
Many of us have fitted eastern Beaver harnesses under the seat (so the fuses are accessible). Mine currently has my Koso grips, my warmnsafe pigtail, and the 12v socket running off it. The kosos and socket are on the two switched outputs and the warmnsafe plug is on permanent. That way I can use that pigtail for a battery optimiser (but haven’t had to so far in 2 years)
Mike
Hi Mike,
What fuse did you use for the 12v? The 15A? That’s what i did because I have the 12v and my 40w spot lights running off the same lead with a splitter. 15a enough for most air compressors right? I’ll probbaly turn off the spots though when I need to use the compressor just in case
 

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So just bought n new 2017 AT and want to add some power ports. after reading this thread I'm a little confused about how to go about it. The OEM has a Y that I assume is for a second port? I will want to use to charge my phone and possibly a GPS at a later date. Should I go ahead and order the OEM unit or hard wire to battery and leave live?
Not an electrician so I'm asking for advise.


Thx
 

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I put a generic 12v socket on my bike and ran wires from the Eastern Beaver PC-8 under the seat. It was pretty quick & easy, not 10 minutes but it didn't take too much (under 1 hour, I think) to remove some plastics and run the wire. I've plugged a 12v charger for my drone batteries into the socket and charged 2 drone batteries placed in my tank bag - worked very well. I also added a couple of USB sockets which I use for charging the phone (while using it for GPS navigation) and charging a power bank that I put in my tank bag.
 

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So just bought n new 2017 AT and want to add some power ports. after reading this thread I'm a little confused about how to go about it. The OEM has a Y that I assume is for a second port? I will want to use to charge my phone and possibly a GPS at a later date. Should I go ahead and order the OEM unit or hard wire to battery and leave live?
Not an electrician so I'm asking for advise.
Thx
I would not connect directly to the battery, use switched power.
You can do your own cabling starting from the option socket behind the instrument cluster: 12V + GPS power; in this case you only need the OEM connector (https://ruggedroads.co.uk/4-Way-OEM-Waterproof-Connector) and then you do the cabling (you'll also need a generic 12V socket).
Or you can install "OEM way", buying the 12V socket kit and the "sub harness kit" (Y cable) which will allow to power a second accessory (GPS). In this case you still need an OEM 4-way connector if you want a "clean" cabling (or you'll cut the Y cable and connect directly the GPS power wires).
 

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Does anyone know how to contact the guy from eastern beaver power supply company? I placed an order over a week ago and have heard nothing from him and his website has no contact info that I can find. I paid through paypal so I have confirmation that he received my money. Thanks for any help.
 
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