Honda Africa Twin Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been told that Honda have discontinued the OEM part and that it is no longer available in the Uk.
I think I read somewhere that the plug & play unit would blow a fuse when a tire pump was attached and that the fuse was difficult to get to requiring fairing removal?
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket part that would still fit into the left hand side cockpit hole and with an inline fuse near the battery connection ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
The said AT circuit limit is 2A of current for at least 2018/19 model year.

A 12V compressor will exceed that significantly, especially at startup. I connect the tire air pump directly to battery and use an inline fuse that comes with the pump.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
I do the same. I connected a pigtail to the battery and use that for the pump. The 12v outlet isn't good for much more than charging your phone and at 2a, really not great at that :)

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I've been told that Honda have discontinued the OEM part and that it is no longer available in the Uk.
I think I read somewhere that the plug & play unit would blow a fuse when a tire pump was attached and that the fuse was difficult to get to requiring fairing removal?
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket part that would still fit into the left hand side cockpit hole and with an inline fuse near the battery connection ?
You could try one of these; DIN' size socket kit 12V / 5A (including fuse).

I also read somewhere on a forum that you should always start the engine before switching on any air pump as most draw quite a lot of power!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
...

I also read somewhere on a forum that you should always start the engine before switching on any air pump as most draw quite a lot of power!
I would agree with that.

Can you imagine after spending hours repairing and filling a tubed tire, gouging your beautiful rim, almost losing a nut, catching some flesh on the tire iron (and having no clean bandages), all in the bone-chillin', freeway winter drizzle, poppin' a leg cramp followed by a Charlie Horse, ... to discover the battery had nothing left for the starter motor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
I've been told that Honda have discontinued the OEM part and that it is no longer available in the Uk.
I think I read somewhere that the plug & play unit would blow a fuse when a tire pump was attached and that the fuse was difficult to get to requiring fairing removal?
Has anyone fitted an aftermarket part that would still fit into the left hand side cockpit hole and with an inline fuse near the battery connection ?
My 2019 ATAS came with a fused harness ending in an SAE battery tender connector. I am planning to modify the power cord on my small compressor with a compatible SAE connector. As mentioned by others it would be a good idea to keep the engine running while using a compressor. The OEM power point is rated for a 2A load and is reported to share a fuse with the heated OEM grips. Something similar to Double Thumpers installation should be a good start. The ATAS came with an OEM power point in the dash. I use it to power a GPS. Other than a GPS or cell phone it won’t run much else. Despite being discontinued it might be possible for your local dealer to perform a search with other Honda dealers to locate the part in existing stock. Not sure if it can be done now but Canadian dealers were able to do it in the past.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
Alternatively, since the socket is really only useful for charging your phone or powering a GPS, you could always just install a dual USB port model like the Bikemaster Dual USB. Which is what I did on my 2016 and my wife's 2017.

I just unscrewed it from that bracket and popped it into the hole on the bike. The retaining ring that secures it in the bracket fastens it to the bike equally well.

I thought about replacing the OEM socket on my 2019 as well, but found a low profile USB-A, USB-C insert I use instead.



Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
Alternatively, since the socket is really only useful for charging your phone or powering a GPS, you could always just install a dual USB port model like the Bikemaster Dual USB. Which is what I did on my 2016 and my wife's 2017.

I just unscrewed it from that bracket and popped it into the hole on the bike. The retaining ring that secures it in the bracket fastens it to the bike equally well.

I thought about replacing the OEM socket on my 2019 as well, but found a low profile USB-A, USB-C insert I use instead.

That was my backup plan (have one, but not using it).

However, I have the OEM harness, so I will use it for a cleaner installation look. That is just me. Trying to keep the "dash trash" down to a minimum, especially wiring.

Note: Keep in mind you may still wish to keep a non-OEM installed USB extension on a switched circuit. Otherwise, the parasitic draw from the USB will run down the battery (an issue for long storage). Alternatively, have the USB charge hub manually switched. Of course, in the latter case, while away from your bike a stranger can use your USB charge ports.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
I just picked up the OEM accessory outlet direct from the Honda website accessory store.

Incidentally, the first thing I did was install an sae connector to the battery. When I had my flat the other day, I picked up a small slime air pump, the new ones only have the accessory plug on them, but I have a few sae adapters, one of which 8s an accessory plug. It worked great to top my tire off before I road to work to fix it. I didn't start the bike, only had to bump pressure from 20lbs to 40lbs, no issues starting.

My older/slightly smaller slime pump has the sae cable with various adapters to use to plug in to it, I've had it for years with no issues, but I tend to keep one on each road bike and ATVs.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
That was my backup plan (have one, but not using it).

However, I have the OEM harness, so I will use it for a cleaner installation look. That is just me. Trying to keep the "dash trash" down to a minimum, especially wiring.

Note: Keep in mind you may still wish to keep a non-OEM installed USB extension on a switched circuit. Otherwise, the parasitic draw from the USB will run down the battery (an issue for long storage). Alternatively, have the USB charge hub manually switched. Of course, in the latter case, while away from your bike a stranger can use your USB charge ports.
It's a switched circuit so nobody can use the USB ports unless you have left the bike running. If that's the case they can use your bike while using the ports :)

It fits in there well and has a nice heavy duty cap for weather.



Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
It's a switched circuit so nobody can use the USB ports unless you have left the bike running. If that's the case they can use your bike while using the ports :)

It fits in there well and has a nice heavy duty cap for weather.

Yes ignition switched, and I will be doing similar with the OEM harness, except my dual port USB modification will also have a voltage readout in the hope I can get some sort of early warning of a failing lithium battery.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
Yes ignition switched, and I will be doing similar with the OEM harness, except my dual port USB modification will also have a voltage readout in the hope I can get some sort of early warning of a failing lithium battery.
I did a little bit of a different approach to that. I have the CTek Lithium tender and use their indicator pigtail when the tender isn't attached.

You can look at the LED lights and get a quick status before you even head out.

It is a standard SAE connector, so can be used regardless of tender brand owned, but I got mine as part of a bundle. Sells for $11 USD

The only advantage to using with a Ctek is you can just pop the top cap on it to connect the Ctek "comfort connector."

They do have a more advanced one the Ctek CTX Battery Sense that connects to a phone app, but it seemed like overkill for $70 USD


Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,643 Posts
I did a little bit of a different approach to that. I have the CTek Lithium tender and use their indicator pigtail when the tender isn't attached.

You can look at the LED lights and get a quick status before you even head out.

It is a standard SAE connector, so can be used regardless of tender brand owned, but I got mine as part of a bundle. Sells for $11 USD

The only advantage to using with a Ctek is you can just pop the top cap on it to connect the Ctek "comfort connector."

They do have a more advanced one the Ctek CTX Battery Sense that connects to a phone app, but it seemed like overkill for $70 USD
I have a similar version of that "SAE dongle", but mine has a voltage readout and a USB port to boot. Because of the USB port, I cannot leave it forever hanging off a non-switched circuit (e.g. the battery).

Otherwise, yes: If the Ctek CTK is able to reliably discern the health state of lead acid-based battery from a lithium ion-based battery, then a yellow warning would be useful indeed.

"comfort connector"
55860
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
My 2019 ATAS came with a fused harness ending in an SAE battery tender connector. I am planning to modify the power cord on my small compressor with a compatible SAE connector. As mentioned by others it would be a good idea to keep the engine running while using a compressor. The OEM power point is rated for a 2A load and is reported to share a fuse with the heated OEM grips. Something similar to Double Thumpers installation should be a good start. The ATAS came with an OEM power point in the dash. I use it to power a GPS. Other than a GPS or cell phone it won’t run much else. Despite being discontinued it might be possible for your local dealer to perform a search with other Honda dealers to locate the part in existing stock. Not sure if it can be done now but Canadian dealers were able to do it in the past.
Thanks I managed to source a genuine part from Rugged Roads.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top