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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I purchased an "OEM" 12V Power Socket off of Amazon. I installed this item according to Honda maintenance manual instructions on my 2016 spec AT. I connected it to the front 4-pin aux power connector using an Eastern Beaver Y so I could power my Garmin Zumo mount as well. All connectors were plug and play-everything went together without a hitch.

After testing for continuity, I reassembled the front of the bike and tested the GPS - works like a champ. I tested the 12V socket with a USB charger, no joy! Next, I tried the charger in my truck - it's working fine. Using a volt meter I discover that the polarity of the 12V socket is backwards. I'm fixing to open the front of the bike back up to figure out WTH is going on.

I wonder if it's the socket or the Eastern Beaver Y. The fact that I plugged the GPS into the Y and it works makes me suspect the power socket. I'll let you folks know what I discover. Is this a caveat emptor issue? Has anyone else out there seen anything similar? I'm curious.
 
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Mine came with my ATAS , but funny you should even ask, lol, I’ve never even once used it. Or even seen if it works, I just assumed that it did since it was a factory install. But I guess I really should check it...
Sorry to hear you had an issue, but an easy fix, other than the disassembly time :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah Dragon - that's the real-down side of this story. It's a half-day tear down and reassembly for a simple polarity problem. I will be more careful in my pre-assembly tests going forward. This result is a bit of an embarrassment for a 30-year aerospace engineer.
 

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I feel for you WW. I have been contemplating the same, but haven't pulled the trigger ... yet. To be honest, I may not need it. But yeah, the project is in the back of my mind.

The OEM harness is a wee bit rich, especially if I end up not really using it.
 

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Yeah Dragon - that's the real-down side of this story. It's a half-day tear down and reassembly for a simple polarity problem. I will be more careful in my after-assembly tests going forward. This result is a bit of an embarrassment for a 30-year aerospace engineer.
But in your defense, it was just supposed to be “plug n play”
But lesson learned, hopefully it will also enlighten others to check before reassembly ..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the problem was my fault, as are most issues in my life. I had added the Eastern Beaver Y to the front power outlet and had to solder and pin-up a 4C connector to the 12V socket to mate with the EB. I got the dang wires backwards...:mad:

There was an upside to the teardown though - I found a spare windshield nut that the previous owner had dropped into the depths of the front fairing. :)
 

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So the problem was my fault, as are most issues in my life. I had added the Eastern Beaver Y to the front power outlet and had to solder and pin-up a 4C connector to the 12V socket to mate with the EB. I got the dang wires backwards...:mad:

There was an upside to the teardown though - I found a spare windshield nut that the previous owner had dropped into the depths of the front fairing. :)
I am glad you got that figured out WW. That's frustrating having to tear all that down to find something so simple. But at least you did get a bonus windshield nut out of the experience :)
 

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So the problem was my fault, as are most issues in my life. I had added the Eastern Beaver Y to the front power outlet and had to solder and pin-up a 4C connector to the 12V socket to mate with the EB. I got the dang wires backwards...:mad:

There was an upside to the teardown though - I found a spare windshield nut that the previous owner had dropped into the depths of the front fairing. :)
If you apply rubber lube to all the slide together bits on the fairings the front Honda crash bar two side fairings plus the inside black front cover can be removed in under 15 mins and replaced in about the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you apply rubber lube to all the slide together bits on the fairings the front Honda crash bar two side fairings plus the inside black front cover can be removed in under 15 mins and replaced in about the same time.
Thanks SkipD. By "rubber lube," do you mean silicon?
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Interesting Skip. Thanks for the tip.

View attachment 54194
Ah so. I've never heard of the stuff before today. Thanks Skip.
If you are doing a valve check at any stage use this stuff on the spark plug boots (the two inboard plugs) that slid down into the head(outside of the boot). The first time you try and remove those two inside plug caps to get the coil tray out you will be swearing a lot. Onece you put this stuff on to reinstall and any subsequent removal, life just seems so much better.
 
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