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Did you change sprocket sizes? Does the side stand need modification? Is there anything else needed to purchase to do the switch besides tires and smaller rear sprocket?
No, i did not change sprocket. I may if I go on a long highway trip, but there is no need to. There is not that much difference, but the little extra torque now is nice.

Side stand does not need mod. In fact, I like the way it sits better now. Before, with stock wheels it was leaned way over on the stand - too much for my liking. Now, it's a little more upright, perfect if you ask me.

There's nothing that's needed to be purchased or modified. As I stated before, I got a second set of rotors, mounting screws and abs rings so I could easily switch wheels w/o having to mess with switching rotors between wheels.
 

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The spoked [tubeless]wheels off the crosstourer are 19 & 17,do you think it's possible to have the Africa twin hubs put into them wheels.
 

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No, i did not change sprocket. I may if I go on a long highway trip, but there is no need to. There is not that much difference, but the little extra torque now is nice.

Side stand does not need mod. In fact, I like the way it sits better now. Before, with stock wheels it was leaned way over on the stand - too much for my liking. Now, it's a little more upright, perfect if you ask me.

There's nothing that's needed to be purchased or modified. As I stated before, I got a second set of rotors, mounting screws and abs rings so I could easily switch wheels w/o having to mess with switching rotors between wheels.
Thanks for the info.
 

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The spoked [tubeless]wheels off the crosstourer are 19 & 17,do you think it's possible to have the Africa twin hubs put into them wheels.
Impossible, the crosstourer has its spoke nipple (adjusters) inserted into the hub, not the rim, you’d have to get custom made hubs, that would cost an awful lot of money.
 

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I needed to go with Altrider High Fender Kit to make the front (110/80/19") tire fit.
The OE fender was too narrow in the back. Lifting it with the cheaper riser kits won't do the job either.
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Also, if you have a DCT model like me, the smaller wheel sizes will alter the shift points in auto mode.
It was pretty bad, up and down the gears even in all the S-modes.
I've changed the rear sprocket to 40T which puts the speedo back where it should be but the shifts are still off, but much improved.
.
I'm currently waiting on RR to ship the modified ABS rings that will put everything the way the ECU likes.
Hope they come thru, soon.
 

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I didn't have a 120/70-19 to test, but did have two other 19" tires for measuring. Compared to the OEM 90/90-21, a 100/90-19 will be about 1/4" wider and 1/4" lower. This should fit the bike, but the gain in width was so little that it didn't seem worth the cost and effort to build a 19" wheel for doing this. The other tire I measured was a 110/80-19. It dropped the bike 1 7/8" and is about 5/8" wider. I see more potential for a performance increase with this size, but it's too wide to fit inside the inner portion of the front fender, so would require considerable modification to the fender or going to a high fender. It would be interesting to hear how the 120/70-19 would compare with the OEM 90/90-21.

Is that 1 7/8" drop correct? I'd like to lower my bike some and 2" would be great


Thanks
MeCasa
 

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No. The diameter difference is about 1.45 inches depending on tire brand and model. That means a 110/80-19 would lower the front of the bike almost 3/4 of an inch.
Which also means that the "lowering effect" at the foot position is even less.
Gotta remember Pythagoras :)
Overall, about half an inch lower seating position and lost ground clearance.

The ABS is affected, in that it activates late.
I've purposely stomped on the rear brake and even though ABS kicked in,
the initial bite left skid marks, not good.
:frown2:
 

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I don't want ya'll thinking I'm short.


My manhood is so large it holds me up off the seat...................


OK, the seat in the lower position is 33.5. I've seen those gel seats that lower the seat even more, but they come in three heights ...so the lowest one must be pretty thin....probably be hard on that manhood


I guess tiptoes or disco platform shoes are my only options :-(


MeCasa
 

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Which also means that the "lowering effect" at the foot position is even less.
Gotta remember Pythagoras :)
Overall, about half an inch lower seating position and lost ground clearance.

The ABS is affected, in that it activates late.
I've purposely stomped on the rear brake and even though ABS kicked in,
the initial bite left skid marks, not good.
:frown2:
So far I have not been able to detect and ABS difference with my 19" front riding in gravel and dirt.

Guess I'll go out and do the stomp test on pavement.


On further reflection I might like it better if the rear tire will skid a bit before the ABS kicks in.

I'd like to get some warning or feedback that the ABS is about to make my brake pedal go all weird.
 

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I'm checking it out as we speak. I'd like 31.5 and I'm at 33.5 and I don't want to rebuild wheels, is there a lower height tire that still has deep tread?
 

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Rally raid products uk co. have CRF1000L H/D LOW Tubeless 19"/17" Wheels you could check their website out.
Just ridden the test bike from Rally Raid. Awesome handling on damp leafy roads. Did take it easy as not my bike.
Ordering the pair tomorrow. Bike is like night and day, rode mine when I got home and it is a mod that I'm desperate to make.
 

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Can someone who installed the RR 19/17 please confirm if:
1) ABS works properly
2) Traction control works properly
3) If speedometer is accurate

Many thanks
 

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Traction abs is all good with new abs ring on front, smaller rear sprocket, the speedo accuracy is now only 2 mph fast.
Result.
 

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Now according to dct fan, there are issues with the gearing. Mine unfortunately has the same problem. I was advised by rr to put back on the original sprocket which I will do this weekend. If it doesn't correct it then I'll have to return the wheels. Next sell the bike. I can't live with the 21" anymore.
Did contemplate putting back on the 18" rear and checking it out. But that's a last resort.
 

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Now according to dct fan, there are issues with the gearing. Mine, unfortunately has the same problem. I was advised by rr to put back on the original sprocket which I will do this weekend. If it doesn't correct it then I'll have to return the wheels. Next sell the bike. I can't live with the 21" anymore.
Did contemplate putting back on the 18" rear and checking it out. But that's a last resort.
My issue was with the programmed 'shift points' with the low wheel set from RR; before I got the modified ABS ring.
RR shipped the ring but I have since swapped back the OE rims for some trips and rides.
I will update how the automatic modes on the DCT behave after the ABS ring is put on.
But as I have posted, even without the ABS ring, the lower riding position and modified ride behavior on the twisties is top notch.
On the DCT, you just need to override the shifts a lot more than my liking.
Being able to swap out wheels and enjoy two different categories of a bike (almost) is worth every penny in my book.
 

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Now according to dct fan, there are issues with the gearing. Mine unfortunately has the same problem. I was advised by rr to put back on the original sprocket which I will do this weekend. If it doesn't correct it then I'll have to return the wheels. Next sell the bike. I can't live with the 21" anymore.
Did contemplate putting back on the 18" rear and checking it out. But that's a last resort.
They're bigging it up on Facebook with links to your posts, wonder if they link this one!

Sent from my H3113 using Tapatalk
 
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