Honda Africa Twin Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of July's Ride of the Month Challenge! Theme: Drop it like it's hot!
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I did a quick search and didn't find exactly what I'm looking for; I hope I'm not rehashing an old topic.

I purchased my new 2018 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sports bike about 2 1/2 weeks ago now, still learning and making tweaks to the myriad controls and settings. (Last time I was riding regularly was in the 80's and my bikes were first a 1976 Kawasaki KZ650 and then a 1978 Honda 750 Four K. Those bikes had just about zero settings; start up and go).

But I find the Engine Braking far too strong on the ATAS, even at setting 3. I've tested between the settings, from 1 to 3 and honestly, don't find a whole lot of difference, at highway speeds anyway - 55mph to 70mph. E.g., when I let go of the throttle, the bike slows down *fast* - too fast for my taste. And I find it makes shifting a bit funky. It really sort of thumps down in speed fairly fast. Maybe I need more work on shifting practice on this bike for smoother up shifting, but I really don't like how strong the auto engine braking behaves. I'd honestly love to be able to just turn it off completely just for some testing. I.e, to be able to let go of the throttle and let the bike coast a bit more naturally - for a while anyway.

I have found that toggling Torque Control down to 1 or off helps a bit, but there's still a lot of unnecessary slow down when letting off the throttle to shift in any sort of casual way. Even when shifting quickly and smoothly, there is a "hesitancy" there as the bike takes a moment while I quickly let off of the throttle to shift.

I have found that for now, for basic street riding, I like the settings at P=1 (most power), EB=3 (weakest eng. braking effect), and T=1 or 0 (least amount of torque control).

I guess what I'm asking is: does anyone else find the Engine Braking too powerful? Enough that it requires some real finessing of the throttle while shifting?

Have I just been out of the game so long and all bikes now behave similarly?

Thanks in advance for any input, advice or your impressions. All the best, Gary H. Warrenton, VA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just a quick addendum. I just went for another ride. Thus far I'm at about 280 miles, so, per the manual's break-in period recommendations (go easy for the first 300 miles), I have been babying her a bit (even going so far as to, more often than not, trying to follow the up-shift recommendations in the manual: 1st to 2nd - 12MPH; 2nd to 3rd - 19MPH; ...to 4th - 25MPH; ...to 5th - 31MPH; ...to 6th - 37MPH ... can anyone say, "Lag")?

But as part of my break-in routine, I try too, to vary things as much as I can... not stay at one speed or revs too long, go for mostly slow, easy riding, but also open her up a bit too, now and again so the engine knows what I'll expect from it soon. But no real heavy stuff and no full throttling for the most part. (Same way I've broken in all my engines--cars, trucks, etc.).

But riding just now, I do realize that shifting is a whole lot smoother at higher revs, when you're getting up and going. Smooth as butter for the most part. And it seems to me, the shifter wants to be manhandled a bit--no limp ankled stuff for it--it wants to be *worked.*

But getting anywhere down near the recommended up-shift revs, putzing along, say, I still experience some clunkiness on up-shifting. And I think it has to do with the auto EB.

Anyway, I am curious to what others experience and think.

Thanks again, Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Gary, I just posted on what I think is the same issue. You're ahead of me as I haven't adjusted any of the settings, but experiencing the same problem. Looking forward to some advice on this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Hello all, I did a quick search and didn't find exactly what I'm looking for; I hope I'm not rehashing an old topic.

I purchased my new 2018 Honda Africa Twin Adventure Sports bike about 2 1/2 weeks ago now, still learning and making tweaks to the myriad controls and settings. (Last time I was riding regularly was in the 80's and my bikes were first a 1976 Kawasaki KZ650 and then a 1978 Honda 750 Four K. Those bikes had just about zero settings; start up and go).

But I find the Engine Braking far too strong on the ATAS, even at setting 3. I've tested between the settings, from 1 to 3 and honestly, don't find a whole lot of difference, at highway speeds anyway - 55mph to 70mph. E.g., when I let go of the throttle, the bike slows down fast - too fast for my taste. And I find it makes shifting a bit funky. It really sort of thumps down in speed fairly fast. Maybe I need more work on shifting practice on this bike for smoother up shifting, but I really don't like how strong the auto engine braking behaves. I'd honestly love to be able to just turn it off completely just for some testing. I.e, to be able to let go of the throttle and let the bike coast a bit more naturally - for a while anyway.

I have found that toggling Torque Control down to 1 or off helps a bit, but there's still a lot of unnecessary slow down when letting off the throttle to shift in any sort of casual way. Even when shifting quickly and smoothly, there is a "hesitancy" there as the bike takes a moment while I quickly let off of the throttle to shift.

I have found that for now, for basic street riding, I like the settings at P=1 (most power), EB=3 (weakest eng. braking effect), and T=1 or 0 (least amount of torque control).

I guess what I'm asking is: does anyone else find the Engine Braking too powerful? Enough that it requires some real finessing of the throttle while shifting?

Have I just been out of the game so long and all bikes now behave similarly?

Thanks in advance for any input, advice or your impressions. All the best, Gary H. Warrenton, VA
Try playing with the settings in the user mode. It will hold the settings until you change them regardless of shut down and restarts. Tour, Urban and Gravel revert back to factory default at every start. Engine braking is not as pronounced on my DCT as it was on the 900 Triumph Triple. It is definitely more than the 750 SOHC Honda I had years ago. The AT has 499cc per cylinder with a 270 degree crankshaft. I am sure that factors into the engine response as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,603 Posts
Yes - Bill is right - it depends what bike you have come from, and it's not necessarily down to power. The worst bike I have ridden for over-pronounced engine braking was my Kawasaki versys (650cc 64hp). The least engine braking on any bike is on my Triumph Rocket Roadster (2300cc and 160bhp). So manufacturers can design in whatever engine braking they like and I think Honda have made it too much on the AT. We have discussed on this forum how they are making it user variable (setting 1 to 3), but whatever method they have chosen it's pretty disappointing because as the OP has spotted, there's not much difference.
There is a connected problem, and that is the lean condition at low throttle openings - the subject of a recent (and many older) threads. My theory is that if they are meeting emission standards by cutting all fuel as soon as they can when the throttle is sensed as closed, then the harsh engine braking exacerbates the effect and you get a jerky ride. I think the latest 1100 bikes are worse than the 1000cc bikes and it was one of the reasons that I have not upgraded. Instead I have spent my money on a RapidBike EVO to cure the problem of low rev glitchiness. If you search for a recent thread by Africano I think he says that as well as curing the glitchy low throttle, it has smoothed out the engine braking.
My bike is 2 years old now so I'm not bothered about voiding the warranty.
Mike
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top