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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all , has anyone experienced problems with there new adventure manual gearbox as mine I think has a few issues,Firstly it feels
very notchy and clunky,and after 1700 miles hasn't improved much. When cold it appears fine then as it gets warm it starts to go downhill
I am blipping on the down shifts to smooth this out but then going up through the gears and whilst overtaking I have experienced some monumental false neutrals . I have also a quickshifter fitted and this only makes things worse with missed gears. I have turned it off in the menu because the bike randomly stalls and dies and has done this about 7 times so far and Im trying to eliminate wether this is something to do with the quickshifter.
 

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Hi mate I have a 2016 model and I have noticed that the gearbox can be slightly "clunky" at times. When I first got it I had a few problems with false neutrals, but that was manly because I was used to being able to do clutchless upshifts on the bike I owned before the crf. Now I have gone back to shifting properly and I rarely have false neutrals, but still get them occasionally. I found that my bike deffinetly feels likes it needs a real "hard" shifts sometimes although I don't know what is the cause of this.
 

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Relay your concerns to your dealer, get them to look at it, but also test ride a couple from your dealer and other dealers. That will give you a good idea, if your bike has an issue or not. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Relay your concerns to your dealer, get them to look at it, but also test ride a couple from your dealer and other dealers. That will give you a good idea, if your bike has an issue or not. Good luck.
Going to the dealers on saturday face to face as they aren't great on the phone, Its the cutting out that is
really grinding as its so random. My 2002 Rd07 has a better gearbox which I find odd.
 

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Issue 1. Don't waste your time talking much to the dealer about the shifting. This bike REQUIRES firm shifts, you will have false neutrals if you try to shift it like most bikes, a light "snick" and it falls into the next gear. The AT mostly will not do that, will give you false neutrals, unless you give it solid firm shifts, all the way up.
Issue 2. Have you tried the fix for the start/kill switch?
My 2016 used to die upon every cold start, until i took the right switch gear apart and sprayed some corrosion x in there. Then, no more dieing, 100% good. There are some issues with the switch and cleaning or lubricating this, should help you!!!
 

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I have the ATAS. 1300 miles. I came from a string of BMW boxers so I know what clunky is. I have also had a Honda Blackbird and a Honda CRF250L so I know what nice feels like. If nice is 10 and BMW is 1, then my ATAS is a 7.
As with all bikes I have ridden I find the gearchange is always better if you are riding reasonably hard and you do the change firmly and most importantly quickly. Explaining quickly is difficult. The three inputs of throttle/clutch/gear pedal must not be separate actions, its like they all must morph together.
Oddly it seems the more you think about the gearchange the worse it gets. For 50 years I have blipped the throttle when changing down. I don't do that now. I roll off the throttle and do the change as the load on the gearbox is transferring from drive to overrun and it snicks in real nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Issue 1. Don't waste your time talking much to the dealer about the shifting. This bike REQUIRES firm shifts, you will have false neutrals if you try to shift it like most bikes, a light "snick" and it falls into the next gear. The AT mostly will not do that, will give you false neutrals, unless you give it solid firm shifts, all the way up.
Issue 2. Have you tried the fix for the start/kill switch?
My 2016 used to die upon every cold start, until i took the right switch gear apart and sprayed some corrosion x in there. Then, no more dieing, 100% good. There are some issues with the switch and cleaning or lubricating this, should help you!!!
Bike has been in the garage dry, only time switch gear might have got wet is washing It
but I dont think Ive washed It twice yet in 3 odd months and I only use key ignition to kill. But I will take It apart and spray just to cover that scenario!
 

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I run quick shifters on my track bikes. They require a deliberate tap to shift nicely. And the downshifts are only working when the throttle is entirely closed - any even small blip will result in a clunky shift, if not worse...


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For upshifts, especially, I find that preloading the shift lever before grabbing the clutch, followed by a good deliberate shift, works best for me. My VFR1200 would hit a false neutral every now and then between 4th and 5th until I employed the preload and I never had the issue again. I think I read about the technique in Keith Code's 'A Twist of the Wrist'.

That being said, the VFR1200 and my VFR800 had/have great gearboxes...nothing I would describe as "graunchy" for sure. Worth looking in to it to see if you have an anomaly on your hands. Best of luck!

My ATAS DCT gearbox is like butta...definitely a 10!..:wink2:
 

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Speaking for myself, I make no assumption that the OP is unsure how to change gears.
I do listen to the experts, like Ari Henning, have watched his video on false neutrals, and he says that a false neutral is an incomplete shift. I actually tried his theory and found it to be correct. I could induce a false neutral by trying to half shift, not a firm shift. After several tries, yes, I found a false neutral.


When I offer suggestion that this bike requires a firm shift to avoid problems, I am only trying to help someone who may not realize this bike is a little different than the average bike in the shifting area. Not trying to impune someone's shifting abilities!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Love how some people assume the OP is unsure of how to change gears.


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Ive been riding motorcycles since I was 7 years old, Owning European
bikes and Asian plus several british classics left and right gearchange ,Cant say Ive experienced false neutrals in any of my bikes except this new ATAS, never had to think about It either until riding this one. You can ride it down the road and every thing appears fine, then travelling back on the same road the selector feels notchy like a two stage shift almost like the selector needs squeezing into the next gear, not a nice snick, Its a bit difficult to explain really.
It has even popped out of gear under hard acceleration then gone back In of its own accord whilst showing a horizontal line on the dash gear indicator ,so If anyone could explain that one please!
 

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You describe exactly what I experienced with my 2016 manual. Sort of a secondary click to get to the next gear. I think it has something to do with the design of the tranny. I think it is more vertically stacked to save space, but don't quote me on that! Perhaps due to increased gravity, it does not just snick into the next gear like most of us are used to. My opinion is that with good firm shifts, and giving up the idea that this bike will ever just snick into the next gear, will eliminate false neutrals and falling out of gear. The only time I had a false neutral was when I was intentionally half fast shifting, seeing if I could cause a false neutral, and sure enuf, I did.
The reason I find false neutral problems interesting is that once on a 2012 Goldwing, I did a lazy shift, and somehow the gears hit each other very hard and I thought the motor had exploded it was such a loud clunk. Pulled over expecting oil leaking out, but all was well. I learned from that experience that not fully shifting can bring surprising and unpleasant results.
I no longer have to deal with notchy shifts as I now have an ATAS with DCT! LOL
I would be very interested if anyone figures out why the AT manual trans is a little finicky. I think it is not something actually wrong, but just built into the design in the interest of shortening the engine/trans.......
 

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Ive been riding motorcycles since I was 7 years old, Owning European

bikes and Asian plus several british classics left and right gearchange ,Cant say Ive experienced false neutrals in any of my bikes except this new ATAS, never had to think about It either until riding this one. You can ride it down the road and every thing appears fine, then travelling back on the same road the selector feels notchy like a two stage shift almost like the selector needs squeezing into the next gear, not a nice snick, Its a bit difficult to explain really.

It has even popped out of gear under hard acceleration then gone back In of its own accord whilst showing a horizontal line on the dash gear indicator ,so If anyone could explain that one please!


Yes I have Had the same thing happen and at the worst time passing on the PCH that was a holy $#!T moment. my manual transmission 2017 AT handles so well in every other respect that it is surprising that you have to really focus on the shifting. One thing that helped me was the install of Pivot pegs it allows me a longer shifting stroke.




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Textasten - I know exactly what you mean about that secondary click felt through the pedal. I was getting that a lot on up changes, most noticeably from first to second. It was as though the pedal had overtravelled and the selector was hitting something.
Anyway I have changed my style and the changes are now so smooth. I hook my boot under the pedal and lift it ready to change then apply pressure as I do the shortest possible close of throttle and clutch dip. The change happens so rapidly and is extra smooth. I think previously my changes were taking too long and that's when I felt the notchiness in the box. Trying to be helpful, not telling people how to change gear !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Textasten - I know exactly what you mean about that secondary click felt through the pedal. I was getting that a lot on up changes, most noticeably from first to second. It was as though the pedal had overtravelled and the selector was hitting something.
Anyway I have changed my style and the changes are now so smooth. I hook my boot under the pedal and lift it ready to change then apply pressure as I do the shortest possible close of throttle and clutch dip. The change happens so rapidly and is extra smooth. I think previously my changes were taking too long and that's when I felt the notchiness in the box. Trying to be helpful, not telling people how to change gear !!
I have the honda quick shifter fitted and they gave me the original shifter in a bag,This morning I noticed 3 small oil seals in the bottom of the bag, I have taken the lever Bolt out and can see that there is a groove in the centre,this is to hold a small amount of grease and the oil seals are to stop that grease from escaping, So the fitter that installed It failed to put the outer seal back in. I can only guess that Honda have over engineered this part as they realised there is a problem with this g/box and have tried to smooth it out using this method. Anyway have repacked with grease and reassembled , Whilst off was able to the spin shifter around a few more turns as have large Forma boots to squeeze In and had no adjustment left without moving up a notch on the spline. Probably wont make much difference although have noticed quite a bit of uneven wear on the end of the shifter toe rubber in only 1700 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update... New quick shifter fitted under warranty, No misfires to report, bike now 3,500mls and the gearbox issues appear to have gone away or at the least I have found a better way to change gear? who knows. I am starting to think this is the perfect bike ,(well for me at least). I don't seem to suffer the same idle issues or low speed speed hunting as others have reported, 1500rpm linear tick over ,30mph smooth in third or fourth and the bike has oodles of power ,plenty enough for this Island, Handling is superb for such a tall bike. Schottoiler fitted so haven't needed to adjust the chain since new just clean down the rear wheel now and again.
Rear brake is a bit wooden but I'm working on that as has such a good front brake,When I got the bike in march I didn't mamby pamby it at all whilst running in and it uses no oil so I think this bike likes to be ridden hard. Air coming up from the fork tunnel hasn't really bothered me, I wear a shuberth m1 without the visor and its been bloomin hot here in blighty so any air welcome , I'm 5'11 so screen not an issue and seat on the lower setting seems near perfect for my inseam, comfort ? I've got a small sheepskin on the saddle that allows me 2 hours! I stop, have a little walk round the bike and marvel at its good looks then good for another hour or so. I've also got an xrv750 rd07 red white and blue that I haven't been near since I bought this one and I thought that was the perfect bike. So all in all, Thank you Honda for such a great motorcycle.
 

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What oil viscocity are you using? The recomended 10W-30? I have the ATAS for some 2700Km now and during the first 1000Km, with the OEM oil the gearbox was quite chunky. When I wend for the first oil change, my mechanic recommended 10W-40. I consisently use REPSOL oil. With the 10W-40 it works very good. I have never experienced false neutrals and the changes are pretty smooth. I have "problems" only occassionaly when downshifting to a full stop under braking and especially if the rear ABS had kicked in at any point of the desceleration, but this is something I had been experiencing with the Transalp and my Varaderos as well.
 
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