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2019 Accelerator Position Sensor - Anybody had it apart?

209 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  ashnaismith
Hi all,

I've got a really jerky throttle (fly by wire) on my AT - feels like a ratchet when I'm rolling off. Here's a video: 20230526_093722000_iOS.MOV

It's not absolutely terrible when going from wide open to closed, but you can see how dodgy it is when slowly rolling off.

I've tried the obvious by lubricating connecting points with appropriate grease, and the bike's been seen by a garage who have done the same. Lubrication improves, but doesn't fix the problem; within 100km it's back to square one.

I'm almost positive it's an issue with the APS. However, Honda in their infinite wisdom put one way security bolts on it. A dremel will get them off, but I don't want to do anything drastic before consulting the brains trust. Has anybody had it apart? If so, is there internal grease? Did you find dirt or dust inside? Was it easy enough to find replacement two-way bolts?

Would rather give fixing it a go before giving Honda $400 and a month's waiting time to get it to Aus.

Thanks in advance!
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Looks like binding throttle. I'd take it all apart and see if it can be lubed or fixed. If not a new or better used one will be needed.
Yeah, I think you're right.


Looks like binding throttle. I'd take it all apart and see if it can be lubed or fixed. If not a new or better used one will be needed.
APS is the Accelerator Position Sensor, or potentiometer. The sensor inside the switchgear which tells the ECU how much to open the throttle on a fly by wire. Honda don't provide any diagrams of precisely how it's constructed inside though :(
I have never had a close look at it, but I am very curious to see if you get a response from someone who has played around with it.
Maybe the potentiometer is slightly scratched or something...
So, I have an expensive update.

Firstly, I learned that disassembling the potentiometer would be a very bad idea. They're apparently calibrated at the factory, and even if I could fix the issue it would be a pyrrhic victory. So, it's a good thing I didn't!

Packing some dielectric grease into the assembly from the outside has bandaged the problem, albeit at the cost of a less snappy throttle. For the time being, it's a fair compromise.

What caused the issue was my Kaoko Throttle Stabiliser cruise control thing. Now, I'm not saying they're a bad system, so long as they're used properly! However, it's easy to use them improperly, and that is what seems to have caused the issues. They work by putting a plastic bushing/plate on the end of the grip, which interfaces with a replacement bar end weight which can be screwed left and right. You can screw the bar end weight tighter, and it'll put pressure on the bushing. This adds resistance for those who prefer a stiffer throttle, or stops the throttle turning for cruise control.

You're only supposed to use a bit more than the minimum effective pressure; however, it's very easy to accidentally overtighten it. If it's overtightened, and you try to make small adjustments to your speed, say on a hill, the pressure on the APS can cause premature wear on the inside of the potentiometer. The end result in the video speaks for itself. Looks like something which happened over a number of years, and a number of owners, but I'm just as guilty as the last!

Stabiliser removed, new APS ordered. Be warned, the Kaoko is a good system but less torque is more!
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