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Looking to see what kinds of problems folks are having with the new AT. I've read a little bit about the fuel tank problem although I'm not up to speed on what is happening. But, I'm wondering whether folks are experiencing any other issues that I should be aware of???

Planning to purchase either a 2020 or 2021 in the Spring.

Thanks.
 

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Looking to see what kinds of problems folks are having with the new AT. I've read a little bit about the fuel tank problem although I'm not up to speed on what is happening. But, I'm wondering whether folks are experiencing any other issues that I should be aware of???

Planning to purchase either a 2020 or 2021 in the Spring.

Thanks.
* The Canadian (probably all North American) model appears to have no speed limiter on it. So nothing to stop you from going all animal on it.

* During a handful of throttle, there can be whiplash in the neck. So beware.

* If you enjoy burning premium gasoline, you may be disappointed that the AT appears to operate best with only regular grade gasoline.
 

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Looking to see what kinds of problems folks are having with the new AT. I've read a little bit about the fuel tank problem although I'm not up to speed on what is happening. But, I'm wondering whether folks are experiencing any other issues that I should be aware of???

Planning to purchase either a 2020 or 2021 in the Spring.

Thanks.
I have owned a 2017 AT DCT , 2020 AT ES DCT And now a 2020 Standard AT DCT. the standard is by far the best version in my opinion. way less top heavy not as wide.. just a better overall feel. Plus no full tank issue...!!! go ride both versions a make your decision, also the DCT works great. and you still have the option to use the manual mode with paddle shifters if you prefer....great motor and suspension with lots of settings...
 

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I have owned a 2017 AT DCT , 2020 AT ES DCT And now a 2020 Standard AT DCT. the standard is by far the best version in my opinion. way less top heavy not as wide.. just a better overall feel. Plus no full tank issue...!!! go ride both versions a make your decision, also the DCT works great. and you still have the option to use the manual mode with paddle shifters if you prefer....great motor and suspension with lots of settings...
Is the standard 2020 AT the same bike as my 2018/19 standard AT? If so then I agree with you. Although they have taken the taller wider and heavier Sport model from 2018 and made it more useable for average sized riders, IMHO they have done this by making compromises that make the bike worse (for my type of use which is 100% on road). The main thing they did was lower the seat by removing some foam and narrowing it. At first I thought this would be a big problem for long rides but it wasn't - I took the demo ATAS ES out for 5 hours. However, they still retained the longer suspension from the earlier ATAS model, and this was worse (stiffer) than my current bike. And of course there's the wider bigger tank which together with the taller suspension makes the bike more top heavy.
And finally, although the screen on the new bikes is better it's still crap, and what's worse is that MAdstad say they have no plans to make a system to fit the new bike.
But back to the original question - is the latest 2020 standard AT (as opposed to the ATAS), based on the original frame, suspension, and bodywork/screen as per my bike, because if so that's the one I would go for.
Mike
 

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The 2020 models are both new so based on the new frame layout, personally I've never been taken by the Adventure Sport, having had plenty of test rides I was happy to get back on a standard model. I now have a 2020 standard with DCT and all I do is road miles, perfectly suited for me, all I've done is add an MRA spoiler to the stock screen and it's spot on
 

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I got the ATAS 2020 ES DTC nearly 1 year no issues. AT or ATAS is always a question what I personally find is if your are a small guy go for a AT if you are big and long try the ATAS. The bike has to fit with you and should give home/good feeling. I see here people on a beemer/ktm and when they stop at traffic light they are not able to put both feet’s on the ground.
The weight difference is 30kg but that is only a issue when your hit the ground.
The 2020 model is totally different bike then the older models in my opinion it is better balance and the gravity centre is lower.
 

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2020 ATAS ES DCT. Bought in June and will reach 8,000 miles this weekend.
(Edit 9Nov20: now over 11,000 miles)

(EDIT: This reads like a review, but I'm trying to highlight "problems areas" that I've seen comments about on the site.)

Tank is so far so good. I stick to non-ethanol. Don't know if there is a correlation there or not. Mileage is better, regardless, compared to ethanol. Range is 250-350 depending on my throttle work. Like the DTE feature. Have not validated that to dead empty yet.

Dirt FWIW: Compared to my VFR12X it is very off-road capable. Compared to my BMW R1150GS & R1200GS it is more off-road capable. Compared to my F800GS it is more off-road capable but by a smaller margin. Compared to my skill it is more off-road capable. It's big and heavy (relative to actual dirt bikes) and doesn't care where I ride. Caveat- not a single tracker so reason to go there. Have had it turtle in sand though....o_O Even that was fun. Love the 270 crank signature.

DCT. LOVE IT. If you don't, go with God. As for me an mine, we ride DCT. My advice is truly learn it before your knock it. But if you still have to have a clutch, you're in luck, you can.

Electronic Suspension. Works great. It's the first stock suspension in 20 years that I don't immediately think about "upgrading". I'm 6'2" and 225lbs. It performs better than all OEMs I've owned and as good as the Ohlins/Touratechs/Adriannis that I've pitched on other machines. MTBF no idea. It will cost me on the back end at some point I expect.

Value. meh...the bike makes me smile, therefore worth it.

Problems. I'm trying to decide if I have a constant low power setting on the heated grips but not enough to bother with a temp gun or dealer visit.

Likes to chug. Likes to blitz. Slower than the v4 (thankfully). Fast enough for travel and traffic. Quick to 105MPH but ponderous to go higher at 1MPH increments. Have not redlined it so do not know the top end. This is all with OEM bags on.

Bags. OEM (Givi Trekkers). Like them. Have used Jesse, TT, Mermite Cans, Shad, Hepco Becker so have seen a few. These work.

Electronics. Big learning curve for how to dial it in to muscle memory. I'm still working on it. Overall, I like the capability to adjust performance using all the various settings. It becomes more intuitive to ride every time I go out.

I can hum this tune all day but hope this gives you enough perspective from my point of view to be of use.

Happy hunting!
 

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2020 ATas manual, done about 5k km since late august.
1. Glad I didn't get es version as suspension springs are too soft and making it softer would bottom me on every jump. Still playing with suspension setup, but for now its -20% from max preload front and back (left those 20% for rear to accomodate extra weight with luggague on, so with max rear preload, front would not lift too much). My weight with gear ir around 105-110kg.
2. Wind shield gives a mixed feeling, but made some extra panels to block side winds (screen is wider on sides). Also made custom fork deflector (helps huge amount for buffeting). But overall - easy, cheap fixes to get excelent high speed comfort.
3. Throttle handle is a bit loose, really jerky throttle reactions in max power mode, every road bump changes input. Not a biggy, but takes time to get used to it.
4. Electronics. This is maybe most iritating moment. Startup notification sucks big time. Drop the bike, restart it and you have to wait. Carplay is mostly ok, but also annoying if bluetooth is not found. Sometimes it also stops spotify to play sound to headset, but if it works, it's fine. For riding modes I use only User1 with max power and least traction for the road and User2 for offroad settings. Other mode are not important.
5. Electrics. Access to toolbox and battery had stuck or proprietry bolt, had to replace them for easier access. There should be power lines to the back and front for easier access to battery power.
Every freeking light is on when egnition is on. So if you want to charge external device, you need to switch the bike on and you end up with a christmas tree just to get the power to ports. Workaround is fuse removal, but come on... They need to give us option to turn off lights if you don't need them. Riding normaly - auto switching and cornering lights are all good.
6. Unstable idle rpm's (range is 200-300rpm). Need time to get used to it, since it is easy to stall a bike if you start to ride and rpm's drops to lower range.

I hope that wasn't too boring to read :)
 

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There is a service memo out from Honda Canada ( probably valid elsewhere too) that they are aware and investigating the dash display shutting off or failing to show any info after start-up. There is a Procedure to test, when I get through to techline I will let everyone know if it's a dealer test or something anyone can do.
 

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Since you will talk to technicians, can you Please ask for a solution for that startup safety warning - there must be a way to disable it.
ps. In 2 months and 5k km I had no issues with electronics, so maybe its not a global problem.
 

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Since you will talk to technicians, can you Please ask for a solution for that startup safety warning - there must be a way to disable it.
ps. In 2 months and 5k km I had no issues with electronics, so maybe its not a global problem.
I have a 2020 base model and after the start up and safety warning I never touch the screen and it goes away by itself.....
 

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It does not matter how you close it - it is still the worst thing on this bike. It hides painfully slow bootup time a bit, but at the end you have to press something and still see slo-mo bootup (lots of electronics, so I can justify it at least). Now add carplay into this bootup sequence and you get super annoying experience Every time, Every day, Every key turn and I drive Every day not just weekends... It's not a safety feature like ABS...

There, vented some innner pain :)
 

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It does not matter how you close it - it is still the worst thing on this bike. It hides painfully slow bootup time a bit, but at the end you have to press something and still see slo-mo bootup (lots of electronics, so I can justify it at least). Now add carplay into this bootup sequence and you get super annoying experience Every time, Every day, Every key turn and I drive Every day not just weekends... It's not a safety feature like ABS...

There, vented some innner pain :)
Remember: You knew this prior to buying the AT. Hopefully you are enjoying it for the motorcycle, and not the computer - which will be obsoleted well before the machine itself.
 

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It's like taking a snorring wife. You knew it but still... :) sooner or later it grows to an elephant or not :)

There are no ideal electrical device, but some quirks are just... pointless and annoying. But without this warning, maybe I would be annoyed by slow bootup, carplay disconnect or week suspension or wind protection or anything else, so maybe it's a good feature :-D
 

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It's like taking a snorring wife. You knew it but still... :) sooner or later it grows to an elephant or not :)

There are no ideal electrical device, but some quirks are just... pointless and annoying. But without this warning, maybe I would be annoyed by slow bootup, carplay disconnect or week suspension or wind protection or anything else, so maybe it's a good feature :-D
Sure, sure.

Sadly one day in the future, the owner is going to ask, "What is CarPlay, and why does it keep crashing?". Also, " ... the start up screen takes sooooo long to crash."
 
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