2020 CRF1100 DCT Left Hand Rear Brake Modification

Hood said:

I have been considering doing the left hand brake conversion for a while but the parking brake was always a problem for me as swivelling up wasn't to my liking regards looks. I was at my dealers today and saw the X-ADV 750 hand brake lever and thought that would be the perfect solution so asked what kind of money they were talking about for it. Luckily I was leaning on the counter when the price popped up, list is £550 add on the left hand master cylinder and list price is over £800 for the two
I might see if I can find some decent exploded pics of the lever and see if I could make one, bound to be cheaper and a fun project as well

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I've recently completed this mod.

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Here was my order from webike for OEM parts:
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :94050-06000
Item number[9405006000] HONDA
price (without tax) 40.00 YEN * 1 = 40.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90545-300-000
Item number[90545300000] HONDA
price (without tax) 213.00 YEN * 2 = 426.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90013-GHB-660
Item number[90013GHB660] HONDA
price (without tax) 150.00 YEN * 2 = 300.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90114-MGH-641
Item number[90114MGH641] HONDA
price (without tax) 449.00 YEN * 1 = 449.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90145-MS9-612 Interchangeable OEM parts:90145-MS9-611
Item number[90145MS9612] HONDA
price (without tax) 483.00 YEN * 1 = 483.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90127-KF0-770
Item number[90127KF0770] HONDA
price (without tax) 201.00 YEN * 1 = 201.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts Number:43510-MKH-D21
Item number[43510MKHD21] HONDA
price (without tax) 15,755.00 YEN * 1 = 15,755.00 YEN
　
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts Number:53180-MJL-D71
Item number[53180MJLD71] HONDA
price (without tax) 4,336.00 YEN * 1 = 4,336.00 YEN

subtotal (without tax) 21,990.00 YEN
shipping fee (without tax) 6,600.00 YEN

All these parts cost me $223USD with shipping. Actually I was shocked it came all the way from Japan to Texas in I think one day once it was picked up, if I remember correctly. Webike was a pain to pay with currency conversion (ended up just doing paypal), but it was great after that.

I ended up not needing the banjo bolt or the two banjo bolt washers in the above list. I wasn't for sure if they would come with the brake line kit, but they did.
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You're going to need a brake line, banjo bolts, washers, and a tear drop adapter to tie into the rear master cylinder if you don't want to modify it (tap and die it for the banjo bolt).

This kit from the sic shop took care of all of that for me. It was about $128.

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You'll need brake fluid. DOT 4 unless UK uses something else.
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At this point your brake will work, but the brake light won't work when using the LHRB. Some guys on youtube spliced into the wire coming from the right handle bar controls to tie into the brake light wiring. However, I think this is messy and harder to revert if you want out of the mod later.

If you don't already have it, go to amazon and get you a spade connector crimping tool and connectors. Also make sure to buy some piggy back spade connectors.

The male spades coming from the block on the right hand controls were 1/4in on my bike. While the male spades on the parking brake and new LHRB block were frustratingly 4.8mm. Double check against your bike, but you should only need the piggy backs in 1/4in since its only needed on the right hand controls.

Get some 18 gauge stranded wire and then you can crimp on your connectors and tie right onto the factory male spades and then plug the factory female spades right into the piggy back position. Boom, done cleanly and you can remove everything in seconds if you want to revert back. It also doesn't hurt to get some shrink wrap tubing to make everything pretty.

You'll want to make one wire to connect the parking brake to the original parking brake wires that are to far away now. This is to get your (P) symbol to light up when you have it engaged.

The 2nd cable is to tie the LHRB block into the from brake wiring at the right hand controls. You would run this wire across the handle bars and then on the right side you'll see four spade connectors. Two are for the front parking brake, and two are for disconnecting cruise control when braking. For me it was the top two, but you'll want to turn your ignition on and hold the front brake lever while unplugging spades to see which two turn off the brake light. Those are the two you'll put the piggy back spade connectors on.

I was initially worried about tying into the front brakes and thought about running wire to the rear master cylinder's connector (which ended up being a different kind anyway), but I dug through the wiring diagrams for my 21 ATAS and found out that both rear and front brake wires are daisy chained anyway.
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Finally, before you do this, you have to figure out what to do with the parking brake. I had bought bark busters, so I was able to simply mount them to the bark busters, pointing upward. Looks a little strange. I just used a rubber strip to give the bark busters more girth since they're not tubular. It's fairly sturdy and good enough for now.

However, I have STRONGLY considered buying that 750 xadv parking brake that you guys are discussing. I just didn't want to throw a few hundred bucks at that yet. If one of you guys do do this, keep in mind that the parking brake wiring (if you care to have the (P) light work) is a very different connector on the xadv. You'll need to cut that off and splice into its wiring.

Thanks. The 56 ended up being a bit long. I’d have liked a few inches shorter, but an all inclusive ready to ship kit was enticing.

I don’t have an issue with the brake lines rubbing the trim under the gauges on the ATAS, but it does hang out above the ignition so I have to push around it to get the key in.

Here are pictures of how I have the parking brake mounted until I think of something better, and how the 56 inch faired.



By the way Relhok, I have a question. Did your left and right levers feel the same? I think I have the system well bled, but the factory front brake lever has less travel and feels firmer. I was thinking it might be due to the right having two calipers, more pistons, and only one cylinder. The rear brake lever works fine, but wanted to confirm with someone else who has done this though. I get there nagging idea in the back of my head to try to bleed it again.

Thanks for the parts lists but the first thing I will be doing is putting on the X-ADF/NT parking brake and just remove the lever from the oem parking brake (need clamp for mirror) . Later I will probably put the X-ADV master cylinder on the bar and connect up but whether I go direct to ABS or do via the rear master cylinder I am not sure but if I do go the master cylinder route I can easily make up a "teardrop" myself and keep the oem in case I need to go back for any reason (selling etc) Wiring again is not an issue for me, I do that kind of stuff all the time, whether it is completely wiring the fishing boats I fit out or putting new controls on CNC machines for my workshop. I like to try and keep things so that I can easily revert to oem so likely just some male spades crimped onto the X-ADV switch will be the way I go. Regarding wiring the brake switch, if/when I go down that route, I will likely just connect to the front brake switch but again I will make sure it is via an adapter of some sort so reverting to oem is simple.

Just thinking about the rear brake connection and was wondering what is to stop me just getting a double banjo bolt and putting the front levers line on to the top of the rear brake master cylinder, could also get one with a bleed nipple although whether that would be any advantage or not I am unsure.

Hood said:

Just thinking about the rear brake connection and was wondering what is to stop me just getting a double banjo bolt and putting the front levers line on to the top of the rear brake master cylinder, could also get one with a bleed nipple although whether that would be any advantage or not I am unsure.

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I didn't know double banjo bolts existed, but I was wondering that yesterday when I was squeezing hard on my freshly installed X-ADV LHRB lever and I pushed the o-ring out of the teardrop and forced a brake fluid mist in my garage and the left side of the AT. I realized then that the OEM reservoir inlet (with teardrop adapter) can't hold a candle to a full on banjo bolt. I figured that the only other option was to take the LHRB hydraulic line to the modulator, but a dual banjo would absolutely be an option.

The X-ADV master cylinder has two switches attached, but both are NO, whereas the rear brake has a NC switch for the cruise cancel and an NO for the brake light. I think I'll wire in a micro relay to use one of the NO switches as an NC, but the two switches on the X-ADV master cylinder actuate at very different lever pulls: one actuates at between 10 and 15mm of lever pull whereas the other is not until past 45mm of pull - the latter of which is quite a lot. By contrast, the front brake lever swiches operate prior to 5mm of lever pull. I'm wondering why there is such a disparity between the 2 switches. I'm going to have to play with those to see if I can move them up.


BTW, I fitted the X-ADV 750 lever and it is perfect. I'm waiting on a Sumitomo HX 060 connector for the parking brake light to finish the job.

Bearikade said:

Could one of you guys take a picture of where you’re proposing to take the brake line to to bypass the rear cylinder? Trying to wrap my head around the process here.

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If using the double banjo it would be to the master cylinder as per the red arrow. If bypassing the master cylinder you would remove the brake line on the ABS modulator and connect the front left hand brake pipe to it, green arrow.