I've recently completed this mod.I have been considering doing the left hand brake conversion for a while but the parking brake was always a problem for me as swivelling up wasn't to my liking regards looks. I was at my dealers today and saw the X-ADV 750 hand brake lever and thought that would be the perfect solution so asked what kind of money they were talking about for it. Luckily I was leaning on the counter when the price popped up, list is £550 add on the left hand master cylinder and list price is over £800 for the two
I might see if I can find some decent exploded pics of the lever and see if I could make one, bound to be cheaper and a fun project as well
Here was my order from webike for OEM parts:
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :94050-06000
Item number HONDA
price (without tax) 40.00 YEN * 1 = 40.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90545-300-000
Item number HONDA
price (without tax) 213.00 YEN * 2 = 426.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90013-GHB-660
Item number[90013GHB660] HONDA
price (without tax) 150.00 YEN * 2 = 300.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90114-MGH-641
Item number[90114MGH641] HONDA
price (without tax) 449.00 YEN * 1 = 449.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90145-MS9-612 Interchangeable OEM parts:90145-MS9-611
Item number[90145MS9612] HONDA
price (without tax) 483.00 YEN * 1 = 483.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts number :90127-KF0-770
Item number[90127KF0770] HONDA
price (without tax) 201.00 YEN * 1 = 201.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts Number:43510-MKH-D21
Item number[43510MKHD21] HONDA
price (without tax) 15,755.00 YEN * 1 = 15,755.00 YEN
HONDA OEM PARTS Parts Number:53180-MJL-D71
Item number[53180MJLD71] HONDA
price (without tax) 4,336.00 YEN * 1 = 4,336.00 YEN
subtotal (without tax) 21,990.00 YEN
shipping fee (without tax) 6,600.00 YEN
All these parts cost me $223USD with shipping. Actually I was shocked it came all the way from Japan to Texas in I think one day once it was picked up, if I remember correctly. Webike was a pain to pay with currency conversion (ended up just doing paypal), but it was great after that.
I ended up not needing the banjo bolt or the two banjo bolt washers in the above list. I wasn't for sure if they would come with the brake line kit, but they did.
You're going to need a brake line, banjo bolts, washers, and a tear drop adapter to tie into the rear master cylinder if you don't want to modify it (tap and die it for the banjo bolt).
This kit from the sic shop took care of all of that for me. It was about $128.
Hand Brake Teardrop Tap-in Kit w/Line for Africa Twin
This fitting allows you to add a hand lever master cylinder to the stock rear brake system without adding a new rear caliper bracket or additional calipers while maintaining all the function of your foot pedal to the rear caliper. This system is able to deliver approximately 90% of...
You'll need brake fluid. DOT 4 unless UK uses something else.
At this point your brake will work, but the brake light won't work when using the LHRB. Some guys on youtube spliced into the wire coming from the right handle bar controls to tie into the brake light wiring. However, I think this is messy and harder to revert if you want out of the mod later.
If you don't already have it, go to amazon and get you a spade connector crimping tool and connectors. Also make sure to buy some piggy back spade connectors.
The male spades coming from the block on the right hand controls were 1/4in on my bike. While the male spades on the parking brake and new LHRB block were frustratingly 4.8mm. Double check against your bike, but you should only need the piggy backs in 1/4in since its only needed on the right hand controls.
Get some 18 gauge stranded wire and then you can crimp on your connectors and tie right onto the factory male spades and then plug the factory female spades right into the piggy back position. Boom, done cleanly and you can remove everything in seconds if you want to revert back. It also doesn't hurt to get some shrink wrap tubing to make everything pretty.
You'll want to make one wire to connect the parking brake to the original parking brake wires that are to far away now. This is to get your (P) symbol to light up when you have it engaged.
The 2nd cable is to tie the LHRB block into the from brake wiring at the right hand controls. You would run this wire across the handle bars and then on the right side you'll see four spade connectors. Two are for the front parking brake, and two are for disconnecting cruise control when braking. For me it was the top two, but you'll want to turn your ignition on and hold the front brake lever while unplugging spades to see which two turn off the brake light. Those are the two you'll put the piggy back spade connectors on.
I was initially worried about tying into the front brakes and thought about running wire to the rear master cylinder's connector (which ended up being a different kind anyway), but I dug through the wiring diagrams for my 21 ATAS and found out that both rear and front brake wires are daisy chained anyway.
Finally, before you do this, you have to figure out what to do with the parking brake. I had bought bark busters, so I was able to simply mount them to the bark busters, pointing upward. Looks a little strange. I just used a rubber strip to give the bark busters more girth since they're not tubular. It's fairly sturdy and good enough for now.
However, I have STRONGLY considered buying that 750 xadv parking brake that you guys are discussing. I just didn't want to throw a few hundred bucks at that yet. If one of you guys do do this, keep in mind that the parking brake wiring (if you care to have the (P) light work) is a very different connector on the xadv. You'll need to cut that off and splice into its wiring.