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2020 CRF1100 DCT Left Hand Rear Brake Modification

57876 Views 238 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  Hood
G'day Nice People's,

Here is a link to my 2020 Honda CRF1100 Africa Twin Adventure Sport ES DCT Left Hand Rear Brake Modification.

I had done the same previously to my 2017 AT DCT.


Hope you enjoy.

Peter.
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Yes, two O rings may be likely but I will have to wait until I get the oem teardrop to see what the dimensions are. I think it is supposed to be in tomorrow so if it is I will pic it up on Saturday.
If you can pull off one of those I would absolutely pay you to make one, whatever the post may be. @Relhok said his HoHey doesn't do that, and while the HoHey does look pretty solid, it seems like it would still suffer from the same design constraints as the cheaper one I got from sic. I am thinking about taking it direct to the modulator, but the Honda banjo fitting has a locating pin



which probably isn't absolutely necessary, but Honda undoubtedly put it there for a reason. I thought about splicing into the Honda hose, and maybe I will ultimately do that, but I'm not quite ready for that, especially if I can find a teardrop solution that's solid for the near term.
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Just waiting on the oem teardrop to get dimensions from before I can make one up. I have redesigned the shape of it slightly just to make machining quicker.




I made the clamp yesterday and test fitted as good as I could with the cylinder still attached to the bike and it seems like it fits.




Regarding the banjo locator, it likely is just there so they can easily assure they get fitted at the correct rotational angle in the factory.
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Just been looking at the parts diagram a bit closer and although it is not clear it would seem the O-ring is not actually in a groove on the teardrop but rather just sits in a groove in the face of the master cylinder. Is that a correct assumption?
Did a test run of the code for the front part of the teardrop, can't do the back until I know what dimensions it has. Seems to be fine although again can't try it on the master cylinder until I am about to fit it as I don't want to have to cope with brake fluid more than once :D

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Got the oem teardrop and found out I was 0.5mm out with the lower hole, 15.5mm instead of 16mm. It wouldn't have mattered as I have done it with a 5mm hole and it is an m4 screw or at least the oem one had a 4.7mm hole in it so...

Anyway I redid the model and machined then anodised the teardrop and it looks like it should work.




All parts ready for tomorrow except I don't have the brake lever yet as no one had the Puig adapter for the shorty lever I am putting on to match the front brake lever. It is to take 2-4 weeks for dispatch, two have passed so hopefully it will turn up soonish.
Anyway that shouldn't stop me fitting and testing the teardrop out as I have a vacuum bleeder so won't need to pump the handlebar lever.
Fingers crossed it all fits and works :D

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Many shelves here seem to be empty of DOT 4 brake fluid.
Many shelves here seem to be empty of DOT 4 brake fluid.
?
selves = shelves ?
?
selves = shelves ?
Fumble fingers.
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One day a future owner (after @Hood upgrades in 2025) is gonna realize many of the aftermarket add-ons can't be bought, and that they have something special on their hands.
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Nicely done but how did you fix the parking brake ❓
I fitted one from an NT 1100/X-ADV 750.





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Fitted and seems fine :)
That is awesome! How sweet would one have to talk to talk you into making a 2nd one?
You wouldn't have to do any talking, just have to pay :D.
My time and materials would be £50 and then postage on top (not sure how much that would be) so might be too expensive.

Warning though, I have not tested it out for real as I only have the handlebar master cylinder fitted and piped up but don't have a lever yet so can't check for sure it works as I can't really pressurise it. Don't see why it won't work but you never know.
You wouldn't have to do any talking, just have to pay :D.
My time and materials would be £50 and then postage on top (not sure how much that would be) so might be too expensive.

Warning though, I have not tested it out for real as I only have the handlebar master cylinder fitted and piped up but don't have a lever yet so can't check for sure it works as I can't really pressurise it. Don't see why it won't work but you never know.
It's got to be at least as good as anything else I might do, and certainly better than what I have now. I'll PM you.
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check for sure it works as I can't really pressurize it. Don't see why it won't work but you never know.
What about the O-rings?
It was flat against the cylinder or in a groove?
Post a pic of the OEM tear drop to see the differences.
I do not needed, but have curiosity.
Thanks. 😋
I just did it the same way as the oem and the same as others seem to do it.
There is a recess in the face of the master cylinder to locate the 'O' ring and the teardrop just has it sitting against the flat face.

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Very good.
Your solution is Master.
The other as show the flex of the tear drop under pressure, eventually will led to a brake fluid leak under pressure, or let's say under a panic brake.
Your clamp applies uniform pressure to the sealing area, and does not allow deflection, thus it will work very good!.
👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
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Forgot to update this thread. I got the brake lever earlier this week so I was able to pressurise the clamped teardrop from the handlebars and it performed well, no leaks and no flexing so happy days :)

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