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Abs light flickering, not the wheels, battery is fine 馃ぃ

1690 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Bfair
Hello guys,

2017 crf1000 standard (non dct)

I had an issue with the bike-stall while riding,the bike went dark ( no electrical power any were. So i dove into it taking the bike apart and found a corroded power line to the bottom of key switch, so I weld it back on and got power back.So put everything back together.

happy about finding my issue y start the bike to take a short ride to checkthe bike and realize that both abs and rear abs light are flashing non stop. Keep in mind I did not remove wheels in the process of finding the other issue.

when working on finding the other issue, I checked the battery and leads, cleaning most connections and switches with contact cleaner making sure everything was put together properly, cleaned all negative wires to the frame. Checked most of the wiring harness and fixed the issue on the bottom of the key.

at this point I have checked and rechecked my work and for the life of me I cant find a solution.

abs lights flash nonstop, if I short to get engine codes I get code 9 and when it is shorted the abs lights flash at a diferent rate (slower). Also if at what ever time I touch the button for shutting off abs, the light stays solid at dash as long as the button is pressed. Bike runs perfect and abs works when i press hard on the peddle.

This bike has seen a hard life, crossed the united states in tat and bdr, live in baja and do baja tours, have raced in baja and won the norra last year. I want to keep it running !
any guru help for steps to take
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would be much Appreciated.
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Read the correct DTC code first of all .Not aware of error 9 related to brake system
the only one will be the 5.4
Power supply relay malfunction
Power supply relay (ABS modulator) or related wires
Fuse ABS MAIN 30 A
Stops ABS operation
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Read the correct DTC code first of all .Not aware of error 9 related to brake system the only one will be the 5.4 Power supply relay malfunction Power supply relay (ABS modulator) or related wires Fuse ABS MAIN 30 A Stops ABS operation
Hey man, error 9 is iat (intake temp sensor) which I checked and cleaned and as you say has nothing to do with the abs. The thing is that the abs system is working properly while riding, just the lights flikering on dash. 馃し鈥嶁檪锔
According to my notes,

PGM-FI Fault Code 9 - Faulty intake air temperature (IAT) sensor or wiring.
DCT Fault Code 9 - Faulty clutch line EOP sensor or wiring.

Maybe confusing.

Maybe more interesting (if we can't count), PGM-FI Error Code 11 is: Faulty speed sensor or wiring.
According to my notes,

PGM-FI Fault Code 9 - Faulty intake air temperature (IAT) sensor or wiring.
DCT Fault Code 9 - Faulty clutch line EOP sensor or wiring.

Maybe confusing.

Maybe more interesting (if we can't count), PGM-FI Error Code 11 is: Faulty speed sensor or wiring.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, my knowledge is very limited on the black magic of electronics. But what is the difference between the two. ( pgm-fi-dct). I checked the code by shorting the plug under the seat and I hope I know how count by now 馃ぃ

would it make sense that any of those codes would trip something for the abs ? Dont know how it could be related but maybe the wiring ?

thanks for the help
My big question here is in the second pic of the bike in what appears to be a living room. I have a wife that would pack my suitcase if she came home to my AT in the middle of the living room, as much as myself and the kids would think its awesome decor :LOL: cool to see an AT in baja in the first pic!
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DCT Fault Code 9 - Faulty clutch line EOP sensor or wiring.
Is not a DCT bike, you see the clutch cover in the pictures
have you check the connector on the dashboard ? may water instrusion gave ossidation ? Or the ground points on the bike?
Just going to throw the obvious out here鈥
Did you check the ABS light assembly and wires..
Or is it a steady blink..
Is not a DCT bike, you see the clutch cover in the pictures
Cool. Narrows the field.
I had to have the bottom of the ignition switch replaced as the corrosion was inside it , key was making intermittent connection so bike was going dark on me . Not an easy job as the screws you can see in one of your photos are Torx and almost impossible to get to..
the screws are Torx
Forewarned is forearmed, those screws are 'security torx', similar to a regular torx but with a hole in the centre to correspond with the pip in the centre of the bolt head socket that prevents a regular torx key fitting.
Check the gang of ground wires bolted to the left side of the frame, remove bolt and check. I had rust starting on my 2018 with only 5,000 miles.
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