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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased the inline lighting connector from Eastern Beaver but now discover that I will have to dismantle half of the bike to get to the rear light unit. A crazy design. I am looking to power up my led running and brake lights that I have on my top box. I can pick up a switched live and earth easily enough from the alarm socket or PC8 but need guidance on where I can pick up the brake light feed to tap in to rather than strip the bike. Any pointers would be much appreciated.
 

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The brake light feed is under the pillion seat. For me it was in the far back left corner (looking towards the back of the bike - standing on the side of the bike opposite the side stand). Signals, running light and break light are all in a cluster under there. I tied in there with a few positap connectors for my rear Admore light with brakes, turn signals and running light.
 

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The brake light feed is under the pillion seat. For me it was in the far back left corner (looking towards the back of the bike - standing on the side of the bike opposite the side stand). Signals, running light and break light are all in a cluster under there. I tied in there with a few positap connectors for my rear Admore light with brakes, turn signals and running light.
How do you like the admore on the AT? I had one on my NCX and really liked it. The access to the wires would be a lot more convenient on the AT, I think.
 

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Unfortunately, I can't. If you use a Positap connector you can test wire by wire without having to cut into anything. If you look at the shop manual and somewhere on this site there is a wiring diagram that gives you the colours, though. Honestly, it took me about 10 minutes of testing wires and I had them all isolated.
 

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I have had the AdMore LEDs on a couple of bikes and they are awesome. Bright, good kits, and easy to install. They even come with the electrical connectors (positaps) to hook everything up.

It really does make a big difference for visibility since it's right in the line of sight for drivers behind you and has a pulsing pattern for initial application of the brakes.

Access to the wires is much easier than my previous bikes and doesn't require any disassembly other than removing the pillion seat and a bit of protective cover on the bundle of wires.

How do you like the admore on the AT? I had one on my NCX and really liked it. The access to the wires would be a lot more convenient on the AT, I think.
 
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I have had the AdMore LEDs on a couple of bikes and they are awesome. Bright, good kits, and easy to install. They even come with the electrical connectors (positaps) to hook everything up.
I just installed the Admore SMT light bar last night. I ended up positioning it under the license plate as that did not require moving any of the existing reflectors or obscure the license number or tags.

I wish Admore had exited the cable from the back of the LED housing, but they route it out the bottom — I guess to reduce the chance of moisture ingress. I pulled the cable up under the rear fender, and used a Panduit adhesive-backed wire tie mount (with strong 3M VHB adhesive) to lock it in place. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole in one of the supporting ribs of the fender to improve the cable routing and provide additional support. (I hate modifying OEM stuff but this was a small hole and utterly invisible even if the Admore is removed some day.) I added another Panduit mount at the top of the underside of the fender and then drilled one more hole to access the spot under the pillion seat. After I pulled the Admore cable through, I added some additional heat shrink as chafe protection.



For wiring installation I took power and ground from the OP accessory connector under the pillion seat on the left side. From the factory it is a 6-position Sumitomo HM090 with only three pins used (hot/switched/ground). Because I didn't have a matching male 6-pin HM090 in my electrical box I unshipped the pins and replaced it with a quad HM090. (By the way, if you blow a fuse at this point, it is the 7.5A "Clock Run" fuse in the main fuse box.)

I was hesitant to use the Admore-supplied Positaps because — again — I don't ever like touching OEM wiring. But upon inspection it looks like they do minimal damage to the insulation — and assembling pigtails would have been a lot of work (and required sourcing and waiting for the turn signal connectors). So I used the Positaps to access the brake and blinker signals. The brake cable is easily located on the three-conductor loom plugged into (duh) the brake light, and the blinker wiring is under the clear plastic cover at the right rear. The orange connector is the left blinker and the aqua connector is the right blinker.

The finished result looks good and I would think definitely aids visibility. I already have a Backoff brake modulator, and I like that the Admore brake light pulses at a different rate. It also has a small white LED that keeps flashing while the brake is depressed. The progressive turn indicators appear to be a good adjunct to the stock blinkers as well.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I eventually bit the bullet and dismantled the rear end to insert the eastern beaver harness. I have then wired up additional led running lights and brake lights on my Givi V47 top box. It has created a very effective high set of lights. I added a GSTOP g force operated flasher that only flashes the high brake lights under heavy braking. I used a waterproof connector and the Givi top box brake light kit with a small project box to make a tidy install. I have been asked by a contact to do tecsamecforchim but am looking at a way of just using a waterproof plug and socket rather than the Givi set up.
 

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I just installed the Admore SMT light bar last night. I ended up positioning it under the license plate as that did not require moving any of the existing reflectors or obscure the license number or tags.

I wish Admore had exited the cable from the back of the LED housing, but they route it out the bottom — I guess to reduce the chance of moisture ingress. I pulled the cable up under the rear fender, and used a Panduit adhesive-backed wire tie mount (with strong 3M VHB adhesive) to lock it in place. Then I drilled a 3/8" hole in one of the supporting ribs of the fender to improve the cable routing and provide additional support. (I hate modifying OEM stuff but this was a small hole and utterly invisible even if the Admore is removed some day.) I added another Panduit mount at the top of the underside of the fender and then drilled one more hole to access the spot under the pillion seat. After I pulled the Admore cable through, I added some additional heat shrink as chafe protection.



For wiring installation I took power and ground from the OP accessory connector under the pillion seat on the left side. From the factory it is a 6-position Sumitomo HM090 with only three pins used (hot/switched/ground). Because I didn't have a matching male 6-pin HM090 in my electrical box I unshipped the pins and replaced it with a quad HM090. (By the way, if you blow a fuse at this point, it is the 7.5A "Clock Run" fuse in the main fuse box.)

I was hesitant to use the Admore-supplied Positaps because — again — I don't ever like touching OEM wiring. But upon inspection it looks like they do minimal damage to the insulation — and assembling pigtails would have been a lot of work (and required sourcing and waiting for the turn signal connectors). So I used the Positaps to access the brake and blinker signals. The brake cable is easily located on the three-conductor loom plugged into (duh) the brake light, and the blinker wiring is under the clear plastic cover at the right rear. The orange connector is the left blinker and the aqua connector is the right blinker.

The finished result looks good and I would think definitely aids visibility. I already have a Backoff brake modulator, and I like that the Admore brake light pulses at a different rate. It also has a small white LED that keeps flashing while the brake is depressed. The progressive turn indicators appear to be a good adjunct to the stock blinkers as well.

I would recommend building a reinforcing bracket behind the license plate, as experience on other forums has shown that the weight of the admore light bar usually cracks the license plate over time. I have one waiting to install and have purchased some aluminum bar stock to use. I'm going to paint the aluminum with matte black paint for a more low-key appearance. Also, when I installed it on my last bike I seem to recall that it could be installed with the wire routed upwards because the orientation did not matter. Does the additional smart brake feature (mine are the standard model) change this because of the sensors?
 

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I would recommend building a reinforcing bracket behind the license plate, as experience on other forums has shown that the weight of the admore light bar usually cracks the license plate over time. I have one waiting to install and have purchased some aluminum bar stock to use.
That is useful information. Can you point me to any of those threads? I wonder if my aluminum license plate frame will reduce the risk of cracking the plate.

The unit also shipped with some steel straps that could perhaps be used as reinforcements.

Also, when I installed it on my last bike I seem to recall that it could be installed with the wire routed upwards because the orientation did not matter. Does the additional smart brake feature (mine are the standard model) change this because of the sensors?
I don't know about the difference between the models but the instructions are very clear about there being a top and bottom and moisture being the issue. You could of course ignore the admonitions and wire the turn signals opposite.
 

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I eventually bit the bullet and dismantled the rear end to insert the eastern beaver harness. I have then wired up additional led running lights and brake lights on my Givi V47 top box. It has created a very effective high set of lights. I added a GSTOP g force operated flasher that only flashes the high brake lights under heavy braking. I used a waterproof connector and the Givi top box brake light kit with a small project box to make a tidy install. I have been asked by a contact to do tecsamecforchim but am looking at a way of just using a waterproof plug and socket rather than the Givi set up.
Any chance you have a photos of the harness plug & wiring colors? Planning to crimp everything down before dismantling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you go to the Eastern Beaver site you will be able to see the connector. I ended up just using a meter to work out which was the switched live and which was the brake light. I recently had an issue with the plug and socket on the box. I have now altered it to having a sumitomo plug and socket under the seat and run straight from there through a compression gland straight in to the top box. I then made the connections inside the box in a small project box so as to protect them from getting shoved around when I put gear in the box.
 
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