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adjusting the engine braking - does it work?

45K views 65 replies 25 participants last post by  DoubleThumper  
It definitely works but the difference is rather subttle. Or at least, the result is not noticable at the same extend in all road/speed conditions (which makes a sense). For example if you travel in a straight road at high speed most probably you sahll not notice the difference. If you are descenting a slope and use the engine breaking, the difference is more obvious.

it has 3 levels, 1 beeing the weakest, 3 beeing the strongest engine breaking. The way it works; it just does not close 100% the fuel while you keep the throttle tottaly closed.

Maybe I am tottaly wrong, but in my opinion this feature exists only beacuse it was so easy to implement with the TBW system. I would definitely prefered a Cruice Control over this.
 
BTW, does anyone really know the difference in between the Power levels?

It looks to me that the power delivery is the same; what changes is the amount of twist you need to apply to get the power...

I mean that in other bikes there is an actuall power restriction meassured in HP (i.e. the KTMs or the Yamaha Tracer that I know for sure), but on the AT it does not seem to work like that.
 
I would be surprised if they are doing it by 'not closing the throttle 100%'. Surely the EuroRegs would not allow that. Or I should put it another way - if, like every other manufacturer, Honda has to make an abrupt and complete fuel switch off when the throttle is closed in order to pass the round-town emission tests, then they surely aren't going to be allowed to put a switch on the bike that then defeats this?
Mike
I think that what is kept just a bit open are the air intake butterflies, not injecting fuel to the cyclinders. I obviously wrote it wrong in the initial post; my bad.... :smile2:
 
My take is this:
The more intervention, the higher the numbers, so:
3 is least power ie max intervention from standard power
3 is least engine braking ie max intervention from normal engine braking
6 is max traction control ie max intervention from direct drive

.
Solid rational thinking Kev. Still, I did a number of trials yesterday, solo and 2- up and still my feeling is that 3 offers more EB. It is hard to achive exact same conditions for each try, though. I have read reviews and seen video-reviews and all say what the book says, but quite exagerated in my opinion. The difference is real subbtle while the reviewers claim quite substancial difference, which I do not feel.
 
Let's see it from another perspective:

I do not do dirt at all, so the guys that do may help here; In gravel or dirt, do you need stronger engine brake or not?

In the manual ATAS, on GRAVEL mode, the EB is set to 3, so maybe we can draw some conclusion aside our subjective observations.