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Any of you folks who are in the process of breaking in their Africa Twins - did you check what kind of oil is being used during break-in? Wondering if my new bike will be delivered with Synthetic or Dino oil. Or is this usually left up to the individual Honda shop?
 

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The owners manual PDF that I found online (page 168) appears to state "Honda 4-stroke motorcycle oil API Service Classification SG or higher, excluding oils marked as 'Energy Conserving' or 'Resource Conserving'," SAE 10W-30 JASO T 903 standard MA".


This (the manual) may vary per market. On the Welcome page it appears to indicate EMEA, Aus & NZ markets. It doesn't make it clear if this is semi or fully synthetic oil - or if they recommend an alternative for running in; which would probably only be shared with the dealer in terms of a technical bulletin or with the supplied bike? Anybody who is going to sit with a mechanic while they PDI your bike, please ask them to clarify?


Ultimately it'll probably be up to the dealer, when they PDI it. Personally I'm going to ask my dealer to ensure it has good quality mineral oil in the sump, changing it to fully synthetic at the 8k service. I truly believe it will help with the break in period and longevity of the engine.


A good friend (and trained BMW mechanic) who owned large BMW and Harley dealerships, told me that's how his workshop handled their bikes and they never seemed to have any engine problems with bikes they sold and maintained themselves


It's a very good question to ask Dan. If we don't, we can't assume the dealership will put in what we want, or even the specific grade/weight that Honda specify for our respective markets can we?
 
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Good point on that last line of the post above mine, especially since the break in process is the most vital for the rest of the engines life (as i've heard from multiple sources)
 

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Good point on that last line of the post above mine, especially since the break in process is the most vital for the rest of the engines life (as i've heard from multiple sources)



I'm not sure but I would have thought they would send the oil with the bike
to make sure no one at the dealer screws up. I spoke with a professor that was
working with synthetic oil many years ago and he told me to use dinosaur oil
for break in because it would take forever for a motor to break in with synthetic.
So that's what I would do, makes total sense to me. Then synthetic for the rest of it's life...
 

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To my opinion, the advantage of synth oil is that it is more detergent, what means it lasts for a longer time while keeping it's lubricating and cleaning qualities. While an classic oil gets faster spoiled. Synthetic can stand a higher temerature too. That's the reason why it is ok to use classic oil, (with the right specs as to viscosity of course), as long as you change it often. And e.g. during a break-in period. On the other hand, what's the point? The price is no issue : 4 liters makes a difference of 20 euro....
 

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I've just had a first service at 1300 klms.

The dealer offered to change from the standard oil that Honda would use to a full syn. I've switched to Motul 7100 10w/50.

I think that this will be better for hotter temps that are usually associated with slower off road work. I also plan to change oil more often that recommended.
 

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The dealership where I purchased mine; who've been great/honest with all my other non-Honda stuff, said it would be a mineral oil from the factory for run-in. It drank a bit before it reached 1,000km then stabilised.

They suggested a semi-synthetic after the 1st service up to 6,000km, then full synthetic after that at the 12,000km handbook intervals if I was only riding it on the open road/gently.

Otherwise semi-synthetic every 6,000km or six months. Currently on Honda HP4 10w-30; probably a bit thin for hot conditions TBH.

Will change to Fuchs Silkolene 10w-40 @ 6000km.
 

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I'm going to do the first oil change myself, but when I went to get the new filter and drain plug washer, the dealer said there were two drain plugs? Is that right? Where are they?
 

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My dealer said they use a 'running in' oil from Honda! then semi Synthetic thereafter as fully syn is 'too good'!!! whatever that's supposed to mean...
 

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I'm going to do the first oil change myself, but when I went to get the new filter and drain plug washer, the dealer said there were two drain plugs? Is that right? Where are they?
There are definitely two drain plugs, one at the front and one towards the back right. very important to drain both as the back one holds a lot of oil too.
don't forget if you have the DCT model you need two different filters too.
Hope this helps
 

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What ever oil the manufacturer/dealer put in the bike for delivery. Personally I would use
dino oil for a few thousand km to allow it to actually break-in. Full synthetic after it's broken in, probably Motul...it's the best. That's all I use in my other motorcycles.
Once it's broken in there no reason not to use the absolute best oil you can get, the motor will have a long life using full synthetic, if it isn't abused.
 

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I'll be using dino for the first two services, one at 1000km and the next probably around 6-8000km, then move to synthetic. Wondering if I can use the Motorex 10w60 I bought for my dirtbike. I'd like to, because I have about 15L of the stuff and the dirtbike uses all of 1.4L at a time, but worried it may be too thick when hot. Big jump from 10w30 to 10w60.
 

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I'll be using dino for the first two services, one at 1000km and the next probably around 6-8000km, then move to synthetic. Wondering if I can use the Motorex 10w60 I bought for my dirtbike. I'd like to, because I have about 15L of the stuff and the dirtbike uses all of 1.4L at a time, but worried it may be too thick when hot. Big jump from 10w30 to 10w60.
10 w 60 will be good , its just has a wider heat range , rather a wider range muliti grade than a lower range (it keeps is viscosity more consistant at higher temperatures ):smile2:
 

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10 w 60 will be good , its just has a wider heat range , rather a wider range muliti grade than a lower range (it keeps is viscosity more consistant at higher temperatures ):smile2:
My bike uses oil in hot conditions ridden briskly on the road, I'd like to use a different oil as it goes be off the dipstick after 1,500 miles.
 

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The bikes should be run in with Dino oil. Synthetic Oil from what I have ready is so effective at preventing wear by cushioning between parts, that it can prevent proper break in of parts like piston rings and main bearings, that need that initial wear in order to seat and mate properly together.
If this is true and your bike does not properly break in then theoretically you would not have proper clearances between parts wich could cause lack of compression or burning of oil
After the break in period you should be good to use as high quality as you would like.
 

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For Canadians, I would suggest the Motomaster full synthetic 5W40 from Canadian Tire. It doesn't have friction modifiers (not energy/resources conserving) and you can get 5 ltr jug on sale for as little as $26. It is actually rebranded Quaker State oil. I have it in my AT for past 1200 kms and works great...
 

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For Canadians, I would suggest the Motomaster full synthetic 5W40 from Canadian Tire. It doesn't have friction modifiers (not energy/resources conserving) and you can get 5 ltr jug on sale for as little as $26. It is actually rebranded Quaker State oil. I have it in my AT for past 1200 kms and works great...
But the difference is in most motorcycles the engine and gearbox oil are one and the same, unlike most cars and trucks which are seperate and use two completely different types of oils. So putting this motomaster stuff in your bike will not be a great idea. There will be no high presure additives in this oil designed for the extreme pressure of a gearbox, your gearbox will be doomed eventually, possibly sooner rather than later. Only use oil designed for motorbikes.
 
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