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Discussion Starter #1
Given the UK government has given me two weeks off work I thought I’d try and be productive and fit my Denali AUX lights to my 1100. But I require a switched live.
Has anyone managed to find one of there 1100 yet which doesn’t cause issues with the CAN-bus system?
I’m thinking of using the live on the 12v socket and I’m assuming (not always the best way, I know) that’s switched live?

I’d appreciate any advice anyone can throw at me :)
 

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’m thinking of using the live on the 12v socket and I’m assuming (not always the best way, I know) that’s switched live?
Take a voltmeter and turn on the key for the ignition switch. Check the voltage using the meter probes. Turn the switch off and recheck. Be careful not to short it out while checking it. The circuit on the 18-19 ATAS is only rated for 2A load.
 

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Personally I’m using a Rowe Electronic PDM60 for all my accessories it is CAN-bus safe can be programmed with a delayed off (got one bank on mine like that for my GPS). No fuses to replace. When it’s overloaded it will just shut down that bank and reset on its own you can program each bank differently;
INACTIVE - for circuits not being used

IGNITION TRIGGER – Circuit activates with the ignition trigger

IGNITION TRIGGER (with time delay off) – Circuit activates with ignition trigger and turns off after the “shutoff delay”

GROUND TRIGGER – Circuit activates with the ground trigger

IGNITION OR GROUND TRIGGER – Circuit activates with Ignition trigger or ground trigger

IGNITION OR GROUND TRIGGER (with time delay off) – Circuit activates with either trigger and turns off after “shutoff delay”

IGNITION AND GROUND TRIGGER – Circuit activates with both the ignition trigger and ground trigger

ALWAYS LIVE – Circuit is active without the use of triggers

one of the best and most versatile power blocks I’ve owned, in my book well worth the $$$
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all of the above. I’m going to routing around with a voltmeter tomorrow afternoon and start seeing what’s what :)
I’ll post pictures as I go. Hoping it’ll help some of you out :)
 

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If you just need a switched signal to trigger a relay (which is the proper way to do this) then at the very least you can use one of either the tail light or marker light signal for switched.

I love things like the PDM 60 or their new AmpLink but they are expensive. On my CB500X I triggered a relay to switch power from the battery to my accessories. On my 2020 ATAS I temporarily have my GPS hooked up to my battery direct. Now I have my heated vest harness and probably aux lights (if I don't just get the Honda ones) to add. I will probably find a PCM60 (they are hard to find in Canada) to use and do it proper. I like the waterproof nature of modules like the PDM 60/AmpLink. Makes everything simple.
 

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Haha @AT-Dragon You just cost me $250 CAD because now I ordered a PDM60. It is the perfect solution instead of me doing it myself. :D
Lol, yea I was the same way when I seen it..... the; Ohhhh shiny keys , shiny keys, gimme gimme, gotta have it syndrome . Did I NEED it? Nope! But of course I brought one, bling cha-ching $$$$
tho I do admit, I really like that you can program it and that there is no need to carry spare fuses, programming it takes a second or two to figure out But other than that, I really like it and would buy another one when I get a new AT.
 

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Lol, yea I was the same way when I seen it..... the; Ohhhh shiny keys , shiny keys, gimme gimme, gotta have it syndrome . Did I NEED it? Nope! But of course I brought one, bling cha-ching $$$$
tho I do admit, I really like that you can program it and that there is no need to carry spare fuses, programming it takes a second or two to figure out But other than that, I really like it and would buy another one when I get a new AT.
Where did you mount it AT?
 
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