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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks, but rolling the bike back and forth does not work. The DCT runs perfect for about 50 miles until the first time the bike is stopped. Then a dash comes on in the gear position. Makes that noise that sounds like the fan motor, but it is not the fan motor. The engine is not over heating and it runs perfect. The noise comes from some where under the tank. Let it sit for about 15 minutes than you can get the bike into some gear, but will not change gears. Have to ride back home in what ever gear the bike goes into. On every stop on the way back home the dash returns to the gear shift position and you have to set until you can get the bike into some gear, then travel on until the next stop. Then sit an wait again about 15 minutes. If you let the bike sit over night it runs perfect in the morning for about 50 miles, then dash returns.

It is not the engine nor engine heat. It also is not the transmission, as it works perfect when you can get the bike into a gear. It has to have something to do with the electronics of the DCT, but I am not a electronics guru....

I have no idea what is causing this.......

Oh, forgot to mention this bike has been in the dealership for 3 months. They replaced my battery, change my oil and filters, replaced all the electronic switches on the handlebars, and the dealer called Honda many times but would not get any help from Honda. I called Honda myself, and was clearly told by Honda that being the bike was no longer in warranty, that this was my problem not Honda’s. They even emailed me this!!! They refused to let me even talk to a Honda factory tech rep., and gave the dealership no help at all. So, I paid that dealer for all the work he has honestly done and have taken the bike to another dealer. This dealership told me they could not even look at the bike for 6 weeks.

Oh, yes forgot to mention I was a Honda dealer for 2 decades, and can not get any help from today’s lawyers running Honda.
Just hope I can find someone on this forum who has had this problem, and could give me a little advice.
 

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It sounds (and looks) like an actuator problem. Letting it tries so much will (almost) kill your battery and then you'll not have enough energy to move the gears.
You can always start a DCT (even if in gear) by pulling the brake lever before pressing the START button. When the engine is started, you'll have better chance to make the actuator work, if it's an electrical problem.
I've read of some DCT stucks in gear without apparent reason. One of the reason could be not enough lubrification: be sure DCT filter is working correctly and all oil passages to the DCT are correctly working.
 

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2018 Adventure Sports DCT
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I would go with an issue with the actuator, it not going into gear because the dog clutch is not inline but that is normal even with a manual transmission if it was in gear to get it back to neutral from 5th most of the time (if it’s not running) you’d have to rock or move the bike. It is physically impossible to shift any motorcycle more then one gear at a time. You cannot go from 5th to N or 3rd. But the DCT should not allow you to even be up in or above 1st gear when rolling to a stop. Pretty much the ONLY way that could happen is by driving in that gear and just shutting the bike off. I know for a fact that all those time the bike was stuck in either 4th or 5th it HAD to be in those gears when shut off, it could of been in one higher gear and when you turn the bike on the ECU is trying to put it in neutral (hence the clicking noises). But the real issue is why it is not going to 1st when you are slowing to stop it... I’d advise making sure the bike is in neutral before you turn it off...
 
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There's a stepper motor on the left side (shift control motor, or "ratio control motor" in the video) that turns the shift drum in increments, just like the gear change linkage on a manual. There are reduction gears in the path. The gear dogs have to line up or it can't get the gears where they have to be, just like a manual. There are also a number of sensors related to DCT operation. If any of these are getting shaky, well...
There should be codes set into the ECU. There's a blank connector (red) under the seat on the right side where you connect the tester, or short a couple of the wires (carefully) to get the MIL light on the dash to blink out the codes. My bike and the wiring diagram in the FSM show different colors than the troubleshooting section directs, so I can't tell you which to short. There's a special Honda universal-ish shorting plug (070PZ-ZY30100) but it seems to be on backorder.
 
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