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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm curious if anyone is running 17" front and rear wheels on a twin (supermoto style). I tried taking my bike off road and I am just too inexperienced to ride a 500+lbs bike off road. I ended up buying a WR250R for off-roading. At this point the Africa Twin is 100% street use which I know is a waste but its the only place I feel confident. I absolutely hate the wandering feeling I get from the front end with the 21" wheel. I've played with suspension settings and its helped but overall I still don't like the handling on street. I dont know if I should swap wheels or completely get rid of the bike for something like a husky 701.
 

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Haven't hears of anyone running 17/17 but Rally Raid has a 19/17 setup people seem to like. Note the ABS tone rings need to be modified with different size wheels to keep the ABS and traction control systems happy (RR setup comes with modified tone rings). One simple thing you can try is raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps to lower the front end. Also make sure your rear sag/preload is set properly for your weight to keep the rear end high enough, the stock rear spring (and front springs for that matter) are generally acknowledged to be on the lighter side.
 

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I would say manual or DCT makes no difference with how ABS-TC work, same problem, same solution.
So far, I have only heard RallyRaid offer modified ABS rings with their wheels.
Others just sell the smaller rims, claim they fit fine.
Buyer beware, I guess :)
 
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What effect does changing the front wheel size so drastically (17 from 21) have on the handling? Seems like steepening the rake would make it really twitchy, to the point of headshake sometimes.
 

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I would say manual or DCT makes no difference with how ABS-TC work, same problem, same solution.
So far, I have only heard RallyRaid offer modified ABS rings with their wheels.
Others just sell the smaller rims, claim they fit fine.
Buyer beware, I guess :)
Laser cut a proper ring is not the problem , instead the shift calibration for DCt unit must be accurate.
That´s why there are few differences.
All can be done with the right background and know-how.

What effect does changing the front wheel size so drastically (17 from 21) have on the handling? Seems like steepening the rake would make it really twitchy, to the point of headshake sometimes.
Did a muck up on a AS , with a cbr 1000 wheels and rear standard shock , will work with few adjustements
 

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I'm curious if anyone is running 17" front and rear wheels on a twin (supermoto style). I tried taking my bike off road and I am just too inexperienced to ride a 500+lbs bike off road. I ended up buying a WR250R for off-roading. At this point the Africa Twin is 100% street use which I know is a waste but its the only place I feel confident. I absolutely hate the wandering feeling I get from the front end with the 21" wheel. I've played with suspension settings and its helped but overall I still don't like the handling on street. I dont know if I should swap wheels or completely get rid of the bike for something like a husky 701.
John at Rally Raid already has a set for his AT and has done a track day at Cadwell on them.
He showed me them today when I visited to discuss the 19/17 combo I'll have made by him in the near future.
Roll on tubeless tyres and more focused steering when you're pushing it a bit.
99% of my riding is on tarmac and I've decided to get the most out of this tool, I really believe there is a great bike waiting to be let out with a few mods, albeit expensive ones.
When racing, most improvements we found were made with improved suspension, but the suspension can wait till I have the wheels on board.
Never wanted be the richest man in the graveyard and turning the AT into a proper corner carver will definitely see me achieve my wish.
The bike has got under my skin and I now can't stop fiddling with it till I'm happy.
Pete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
John at Rally Raid already has a set for his AT and has done a track day at Cadwell on them.
He showed me them today when I visited to discuss the 19/17 combo I'll have made by him in the near future.
Roll on tubeless tyres and more focused steering when you're pushing it a bit.
99% of my riding is on tarmac and I've decided to get the most out of this tool, I really believe there is a great bike waiting to be let out with a few mods, albeit expensive ones.
When racing, most improvements we found were made with improved suspension, but the suspension can wait till I have the wheels on board.
Never wanted be the richest man in the graveyard and turning the AT into a proper corner carver will definitely see me achieve my wish.
The bike has got under my skin and I now can't stop fiddling with it till I'm happy.
Pete.
Did John say if he recommends the 17/17 set up for 100% street use? I was set to sell my AT because I just really hate the road handling compared to other bikes I've ridden. I swear I feel like my front tire is flat half the time. I think if I can improve the street manners of this bike I'll probably keep it for a long time.
 

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Did John say if he recommends the 17/17 set up for 100% street use? I was set to sell my AT because I just really hate the road handling compared to other bikes I've ridden. I swear I feel like my front tire is flat half the time. I think if I can improve the street manners of this bike I'll probably keep it for a long time.
He did it because he could and he wanted to. He told me how much it slowed the turn in and although it suited the trackday 19/17 wheels transformed the handling on the bike with Conti Trails on, he had a 160/60 on the rear and fat rears are often responsible for slow handling characteristics, something a lot of people have found when they've increased tyre size on all sorts of bikes.
 

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Laser cut a proper ring is not the problem , instead the shift calibration for DCt unit must be accurate.
That´s why there are few differences.
All can be done with the right background and know-how.



Did a muck up on a AS , with a cbr 1000 wheels and rear standard shock , will work with few adjustements
As far as I know from riding Honda's DCT for 5 years, the shifts are triggered by sensor inputs, not calibrated.
Your so called "shift calibration" is a made up term.
The only way to take advantage of the programmed shifts points is to input correct wheel speed into the ECU.
Rally Raid has provided a solution to that end by modified ABS ring to send corrected wheel speed due to the smaller front rim.
None of the other wheel vendors has done that.
They will happily sell you the rims and let you deal with the problems they come with.
All I am pointing out is that you should do your research before choosing a vendor who supplies smaller wheels for the AT/DCT.
 

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Shift calibration it´s the correct technical term.
I`m aware rally raid , trying to solve those problem with DCT and 19/17 wheels doing a different front abs trigger wheel.
( https://www.africatwinforum.com/for...n/19490-19-inch-front-wheel-7.html#post289609)
Also i already ask them about those 17-17 inch kit.
Bigger problems with not oem wheels /not oem size are for me just related to paperwork for get them wrote down on bike "title".
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Shift calibration it´s the correct technical term.
I`m aware rally raid , trying to solve those problem with DCT and 19/17 wheels doing a different front abs trigger wheel.
( https://www.africatwinforum.com/for...n/19490-19-inch-front-wheel-7.html#post289609)
Also i already ask them about those 17-17 inch kit.
Bigger problems with not oem wheels /not oem size are for me just related to paperwork for get them wrote down on bike "title".
Am I reading this correct in that you have already asked Rally Raid about the 17/17 setup? I have a manual version so it would appear I'm already one step in the right direction.
 

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I considered the 17/17 approach, last bike I did was an XR650R, but can't resist the odd easy lane which the 19/17 will cope with easily as well as a vast improvement to the general road manners.
I've persisted with the 21" front for 6000 miles, bought the bike in July this year, but despite titting about with multiple suspension settings and pulling the forks up to 12mil through the yolks it still pushes the front more than the back when I'm acting the arse so I'm going to go 19/17 to make the bike less nervous when you're on the outside edge of the tyres, sometimes it slides a bit and sometimes not dependant on the road surface and temperature I assume.
Basically I still want it to remain a trail bike but not have to back off because the front washes out first.
I like to think after many years road racing and enduro I've a reasonable idea how to achieve a decent setup on a road bike but I'm not about to squander a small fortune on suspension to try and get more out of the 21" front end, that will come after the wheel change
In the past I owned a GS1100 and 1150 and both would run rings around the AT in its present format, so there lies the challenge for me personally.
Pete.
 

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Am I reading this correct in that you have already asked Rally Raid about the 17/17 setup? I have a manual version so it would appear I'm already one step in the right direction.
copy/paste from FB rally raid page(where i found it)
"Our ABS ring is the same as the OEM ring but with fewer holes laser cut into it, this counteracts the reduced rolling diameter of the smaller front wheel, and allows the ABS and traction control to operate normally. We have a 17 inch front and 17 inch rear super Moto wheels set being tested at the moment"
 
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