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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are posts on ADV Rider as well as Back Country Adventure motorsports concerning many AT owners having issues with 'striction', the term used for forks not working properly, in this case due to wear to the inner anodization of the forks causing binding.
There are many posts about it on ADV Rider, and many are saying that Honda has NOT recognized the issue, and those effected are advising you have your forks looked at by Honda IF you experience problems with excessively stiff fork function.
Has anyone here had such an issue?
 

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...in this case due to wear to the inner anodization of the forks causing binding...
It's actually the other way around. The forks bind in the area around the lower triple clamp. The binding accelerates wear through the very thin anodizing. Once the anodizing is worn through the bare aluminum makes more friction and the rider then feels the binding.


Honda has recognized the problem. It's why the ATAS forks are touted as having "Kashima" coating. The standard model apparently didn't get the upgrade.
 

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I had the stiction issue on my '17 by 7500 miles. Dealer found contaminated bushings, but no tube wear was visible. In warranty period, but not covered, they said. Last money they get from me.
 

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I had the stiction issue on my '17 by 7500 miles. Dealer found contaminated bushings, but no tube wear was visible. In warranty period, but not covered, they said. Last money they get from me.
That is bad. It'd be the last money Honda got from me as well.

So far so good with my Sept 17 @ 9300 miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's actually the other way around. The forks bind in the area around the lower triple clamp. The binding accelerates wear through the very thin anodizing. Once the anodizing is worn through the bare aluminum makes more friction and the rider then feels the binding.


Honda has recognized the problem. It's why the ATAS forks are touted as having "Kashima" coating. The standard model apparently didn't get the upgrade.
Sorry, I just reread the report on ADV Rider, there is a post just for this issue, and it definitely states the INNER tube, just below the triple clamp. And of course, properly anodized forks wear at a very slow rate, over decades for the most part.
 

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Definetly the last Honda I buy and it is not all related to the front forks as to why.



Yamaha will be getting my money next on the Tenere 700. It'll be good to be back home on a quality built bike. My Super Tenere was one solid well built motorcycle.
 

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Same for me. Not my first new honda, but due to the way honda have reacted to issues on my AF twin - this will definitely be my last.
 

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Has the rubbing part that does the damage been identified?
The bushes on the lower inner fork tubes slide on the inside edge of the upper outer fork tube. The bushes are a wear item the upper outer tubes are a wear item, its the fact the upper outer tubes are wearing through the original internal anodizing in the area around the lower clamp on the upper tubes at low km that is the issue.

Some options are 1) make the Upper tubes flex less (replace with next version of tubes) 2) Recoat with a harder material either Kashima or Hard Anodizing 3) Make the lower clamp better (more round with a greater surface area etc) .
It looks like having the suspension set so that the upper bush does not constantly work right by that lower clamp might help as well, also reducing the lower clamp clamping pressure (TQ down to a much lower figure) seems to assist.

This issue is not unique to the AT and is a common issue across a number of brands, big bikes wearing fork tubes, it was more extreme on the AT. A combination of a number of the above items looks like it has mostly resolved the issue, or delayed it to be within what you would expect as a normal service life, remembering upper tubes are still a wear item, they will need to be serviced over a period of time.
In the 18 model ATAS they used stiffer outer tubes, in 2020 models they increased flex in the frame around the stearing head and put the stiffer outer tubes on all models.
 

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So bush wears outer tube so fast even through an oil film? Given relatively high OEM oil level in the tube, that looks a bit odd.
 

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Would the stiffer tubes be noticeable through the suspension?, because I thought when I got my 2018 bike they had put harder springs in the front compared to my 2017. But couldn't find any evidence that they had done that (only changed the colour of the forks so it didn't match the wheels any more )
Mike
 

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So bush wears outer tube so fast even through an oil film? Given relatively high OEM oil level in the tube, that looks a bit odd.
Yes that's true, and its only the back of the tube that wears through, so even just rotating the tube every 10k km will help the situation. Kashima coating, lowering the bottom clamp TQ down to 13N-m and change the fork oil every 20k rotate the tubes a 1/4 turn every 10k seems to get rid of the issue so far, but I only have 30k km since the Kashima coating.
 

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Would the stiffer tubes be noticeable through the suspension?, because I thought when I got my 2018 bike they had put harder springs in the front compared to my 2017. But couldn't find any evidence that they had done that (only changed the colour of the forks so it didn't match the wheels any more )
Mike
I have not ridden a 2018 so that's hard to tell, I have ridden a T700 that feels very harsh compared to mine and a 1290 Adventure R and 790 Adventure R both feel rough and harsh but that is just that I have changed my springs to a much harder spring and changed the dampers to give a very plush ride. In the 2020 bike Honda increased the frame flex at the stearing head by removing the cross brace there to enhance the feel of the bike.
 

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I had the forks serviced on my '17 standard by the dealer at 7500 miles because of stiction; there was crud on the bushings but no wear in the tubes that I could see. New bushings and seals: it was better for a couple of thousand miles, but it came back. I just rotated the upper tubes 90 degrees this weekend and dropped the bolt torque on the lower tree from 18 ft-lbs to 15. The slight rise with a "pop" when starting out from a stop is gone. Hard to tell more just yet.
I have it in mind to replace the upper tubes at some point with the later versions. Anybody got a recommendation of which exact model to choose? '18 ATAS, what?
 

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If it's supposed to slide like that there could be a problem with either bush factory coating material, insufficient oil in the upper section or loose clearances inside the tube.
 

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Definetly the last Honda I buy and it is not all related to the front forks as to why.



Yamaha will be getting my money next on the Tenere 700. It'll be good to be back home on a quality built bike. My Super Tenere was one solid well built motorcycle.
Well, looks the new tenere was built to a price....
 
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