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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After 5 weeks of daily tweaking, I have managed to have a working suspension setup with stock springs and shock. I would like to share this information for us fatties out there! I experienced high speed wobbles, had to constantly correct myself in corners and had a lot of bumby front situations at lower speeds. Honda aimed the suspension for 75 kg / 165 lbs / 12 st riders. Unfortunately, I am 108 kg / 238 lbs / 17 st.

My setup:
- FRONT preload: 8 turns, starting from full SOFT.
- FRONT compression damping: 2 clicks from full TIGHT.
- FRONT rebound: 2 and a half turn from full TIGHT.

- REAR preload: Maxed out, turned anti-clockwise untill you hear the first click.
- REAR compression damping: stock settings (14 clicks from MAX).
- REAR rebound: stock settings (11 clicks from MAX).

Testing situation:
- Both my Tusk panniers, weighing 8 kg / 17 lbs total, have been removed.
- I have equipped a front crash bar of around 6 kg / 13 lbs
- Did a constant 160 kmph / 100 mph for about 20 km / 13 mi on the highway with a few fairly sharp exit lanes.
- I intentionally pushed against the handlebars to the left and to the right on the highway and I'm satisfied the gyroscopic effect corrects my path and keeps me in a straight line without the handlebars feeling twitchy or 'light feathered'.
- Did 50 kmph / 30 mph within city boundries, all on tarmac, both new and old pavement with tar snakes and speed bumps.
- I have done a couple of full turns on a roundabout and ONLY noticed a slight oversteer in the back when I had to correct my speed and lean angle a bit while taking the long turning circle.
- Road surface was wet. I can happily say I was really confident on cornering the bike hard for the first time since I owned it.
- My AT runs on Dunlop Trailsmart Max, front 2.0 bar and back 2.6 bar.

I really hope this information will help you sort out any discomfort or trouble you are experiencing with your AT. The rear shock is simply not build for our weight. I'm convinced that if you apply these settings, you will regain control and a good level of comfort!
 

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First off LOL if you think 238# is fat you gotta meet me I range between 260-270 lbs but that aside thank you very much for the info.. I’ve been seriously procrastinating on messing with and getting the proper set up in the suspension and this is a godsend or at the very least a sign for me to finally fix that issue.

GREAT POST!! Actually this would be a great start for us to post more of the setups and variables and setting used for OEM suspensions. Even if the rider is not the exact same weight and height it as least a great staring point and can be more easily tweaked from there...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First off LOL if you think 238# is fat you gotta meet me I range between 260-270 lbs but that aside thank you very much for the info.. I’ve been seriously procrastinating on messing with and getting the proper set up in the suspension and this is a godsend or at the very least a sign for me to finally fix that issue.

GREAT POST!! Actually this would be a great start for us to post more of the setups and variables and setting used for OEM suspensions. Even if the rider is not the exact same weight and height it as least a great staring point and can be more easily tweaked from there...
You're welcome and yes, everyone should give it a try and post their feedback here for fine tuning.

My fiance is 60kg and rides on the back if the weather is exactly warm enough, moisture levels are within min/max and Saturn and the Andromeda galaxy system are aligned, so it'll be a while until I can test her added weight.
 

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If you need heavy springs I think you should just bite the bullet and get the correct ones, the stock suspension can be resprung and valved to make it a very good handling bike. The stock valving is not capable of controlling the existing springs so if you do upgrade them you will need that work done anyway. there is heaps of stuff that can help out on the web https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/assets/brochures/Road_Setup_Guide.pdf https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/Offroad-MX-Enduro-SX-Motorcycle-Suspension-Tuning
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you need heavy springs I think you should just bite the bullet and get the correct ones, the stock suspension can be resprung and valved to make it a very good handling bike. The stock valving is not capable of controlling the existing springs so if you do upgrade them you will need that work done anyway. there is heaps of stuff that can help out on the web https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/assets/brochures/Road_Setup_Guide.pdf https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/Offroad-MX-Enduro-SX-Motorcycle-Suspension-Tuning
Thanks for the link, I agree that if you really want it done properly, you should revalve it. Although, if anyone is happy with these settings, like me, you can save quit a lot of money.
 

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You're welcome and yes, everyone should give it a try and post their feedback here for fine tuning.

My fiance is 60kg and rides on the back if the weather is exactly warm enough, moisture levels are within min/max and Saturn and the Andromeda galaxy system are aligned, so it'll be a while until I can test her added weight.
Lol she needs to meet my o’lady I’m sure between the two of them they would come up with a couple of more and then add “you’re always off on the bike and never take me”
 

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Glad you found a setting that works great for you! What I also noticed, was initially with the OEM tires, I had to fight the bike in the curves, it would have a tendency to go wide. When I changed the tires for Shinkos 804/805, it completely transformed the bike, the bike now falls into corners effortlessly. Insane the difference a tire can make.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You're welcome and yes, everyone should give it a try and post their feedback here for fine tuning.

My fiance is 60kg and rides on the back if the weather is exactly warm enough, moisture levels are within min/max and Saturn and the Andromeda galaxy system are aligned, so it'll be a while until I can test her added weight.
Lol she needs to meet my o’lady I’m sure between the two of them they would come up with a couple of more and then add “you’re always off on the bike and never take me”
Haha, It seems that you and I Iive the same life!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad you found a setting that works great for you! What I also noticed, was initially with the OEM tires, I had to fight the bike in the curves, it would have a tendency to go wide. When I changed the tires for Shinkos 804/805, it completely transformed the bike, the bike now falls into corners effortlessly. Insane the difference a tire can make.
Absolutely, I disliked my stock Aveon tyres. They were used for 11k kilometres and were cupped and squared. I was in a German mountain range for a weekend thinking I could get some last milage out of them before changing them having some thread left.

Out of nowhere we noticed that the rear tyre showed extreme wear randomly around the tyre, my center thread was gone and my carcass started to show at one spot. For some reason my insurance and my motorcycle road side service couldn't help because all shops were closing and I crossed a border. So we had to ride 350km back into The Netherlands over the Autobahn with no more than 90 - 100 kmph, sticking behind trucks while those crazy BMW's passed us at 200+ kmph. The most tense ride I ever did!
 

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I’m about the same size as the OP. Fooling with the stock settings made the ride “better” but the biggest problem IMO is the preload or lack of. There was no way I was only using 30% of the travel in the rear. More like 50% even with the preload all the way stiff

The problem when you don’t have proper preload especially in the rear is that it unweights the front. With a light front end it will drift, shimmy, and feel unstable. You need to get that weight ‘even”. I bought the correct weight spring from Cogent Dynamics and what a difference. The bike absorbs bumps better, it corners better and is more stable. I can also attain the correct preload for the rear of the bike even loaded. The spring was only. 150ish

The front swings are next. Suspension is always the first thing I invest in no matter what motorcycle I own or buy. It makes the biggest difference in how the bike feels.

I’m not saying don’t mess the suspension to get the stock set up better, but the right springs goes along way..

BTW, i ride 50/50 so YMMV
 

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The problem when you don’t have proper preload especially in the rear is that it unweights the front. With a light front end it will drift, shimmy, and feel unstable. You need to get that weight ‘even”. I bought the correct weight spring from Cogent Dynamics and what a difference. The bike absorbs bumps better, it corners better and is more stable. I can also attain the correct preload for the rear of the bike even loaded. The spring was only. 150ish
You only changed the spring and didn't touch the valving?
 

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You only changed the spring and didn't touch the valving?
No. After installing the spring, then the shock on the bike, I took it down to the shop that services and maintains my other bikes including my dedicated track bike. Point being I trust them. They helped me set it up as well as the front. We got the rear working good enough. Ride it and see they said.

I did and it felt fine. No bobbing, no compacting, no bottoming. Handled the washboard section of an old mining trail.

But me being me, I had them order an Öhlins for the rear and whatever they thought necessary for the forks.
 

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I'm in Colorado as well. I would like to ask your opinion about shocks and forks, if you are willing.
 

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Well I just want to thank ronbosgra for this post .

I have been struggling with the setup on my AT and thought I had got it to where I can live with it.
So after reading the original post I decided what the **** I've got the time let's try this.

WoW all I can say !!!

The bike is a different animal very much better behaved and more comfortable too.
I'm also still riding the original Dunlop's but plan to change to tourance next in the new year.

My bike was bouncy and felt unstable over anything that was not flat , even at speeds of 60 -70mph it had a slight front wobble I thought it the tyre .
I do have a different rear spring ( hyperpro ) but the rest is as described in the op.

Today's ride out to test speedohealer was a pure pleasure .

Road surface I would normally try to avoid I just rode on bumps potholes manhole covers cracks in tarmac all taken in stride and with speed and confidence.

Very very Happy .

Thanks for your advice on this setup.
 

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What spring rate did you go with? I have heard different number for what the stiffness of the stock coil is. I have heard 8.3 and 8.8. In the case of the former, I would go with about a 9.0 and in the latter, a 9.5.

It is nice to get the stock components to work as well as one can but given how soft the rear is, a stiffer coil, as a minimum, will really help out.

I have a very good understanding of how dirt bike suspension works but maybe someone here can address this related issue. If you go to a stiffer coil, damping will need to be revised. I assume that a stiffer coil will need less compression damping as the new spring rate will add resistance to the compression effect and the reverse is true on rebound. More damping will be needed to keep the rear shock from springing back up to quickly. Yea or nay?

NC


I’m about the same size as the OP. Fooling with the stock settings made the ride “better” but the biggest problem IMO is the preload or lack of. There was no way I was only using 30% of the travel in the rear. More like 50% even with the preload all the way stiff

The problem when you don’t have proper preload especially in the rear is that it unweights the front. With a light front end it will drift, shimmy, and feel unstable. You need to get that weight ‘even”. I bought the correct weight spring from Cogent Dynamics and what a difference. The bike absorbs bumps better, it corners better and is more stable. I can also attain the correct preload for the rear of the bike even loaded. The spring was only. 150ish

The front swings are next. Suspension is always the first thing I invest in no matter what motorcycle I own or buy. It makes the biggest difference in how the bike feels.

I’m not saying don’t mess the suspension to get the stock set up better, but the right springs goes along way..

BTW, i ride 50/50 so YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Update:

I bit the bullet and purchased the Hyperpro Kit front & back +20mm springs after a near collision this week. I still tweaked the suspensions a little and I must say; LESS compression damping and MORE rebound worked fairly well for some reason...

We still suffer from an underweight front and boy did I find out. I lost traction when accelerating to overtake a truck (I nearly rear ended it) and it got me so angry at the bike that I phoned Hyperpro when I arrived at work and explained everything (I'm Dutch and they are a well known Dutch suspension company). They are fully aware of the AT's suspension problem. They told me that after I install their products, I can come by the workshop and their mechanics will check and tweak my settings if needed, free of charge.

...DEAL!

I do want to highlight that the settings I posted here really do make the bike far more manageable for me than stock settings, but the front end is and will always stay underweight (thus less traction) because the back get's compressed to much.

my costs:
* €108,- Hyperpro Back spring (black).
* €170,- Hyperpro Front forks.
* €65,- Upside Down fork tool.
* €49,- Motorcycle spring compress tool.
* €15,- new fork seals.
* Fork oil is included in the Hyperpro kit.

I was told not to purchase the Heavy Duty version. That version is meant for serious globetrotters and heavy equipped police motorcycles.

All in all I spend around €420,-, something I tried to avoid by tweaking the stock settings. But hey, I found out first hand that you can't fight the laws of physics...

The kit comes with a complete and professional instructions manual. I'll also be following YouTube video's because I prefer seeing it too, since I never dismantled an upside-down fork before (only 'normal' ones). I'll be working on the bike this weekend, if my spring compression tool arrives on time...

I will give an update in this thread for anyone who's interested.
 

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.... If you go to a stiffer coil, damping will need to be revised. I assume that a stiffer coil will need less compression damping as the new spring rate will add resistance to the compression effect and the reverse is true on rebound. More damping will be needed to keep the rear shock from springing back up to quickly. Yea or nay?
NC
A lot of people replacing the rear coil do also the shock revalving to have better rebound control. I'm not sure the stock valve is able to manage the stiffer spring: it could be very hard to correctly set it up.
 

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I found that the forks are far better since I changed the settings , no more brake dive , and much more feel and control.
I probably will upgrade the springs at some point but just now they suit my riding , road only , and I got the heavy duty spring for two up touring ?
 
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