Honda Africa Twin Forum banner

41 - 54 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Great post, thank you for the share.

I have one question, you told "REAR preload: Maxed out, turned anti-clockwise untill you hear the first click.", did you really set the rear preload to the minimum height or is this just a typo?
Pretty sure he meant he maxed it out clockwise then turned it counter-clockwise until he felt the first click. Even a 160lbs rider would bottom it out at minimum preload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Pretty sure he meant he maxed it out clockwise then turned it counter-clockwise until he felt the first click. Even a 160lbs rider would bottom it out at minimum preload.
thank you, I also thought so. I have been riding my AT for 3.5 years but needed to readjust almost everything after tyre replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I just changed the rear spring on my 2018 ATAS with this K-Tech Suspension Rear Shock Spring , the 95 NM spring.
I weigh 210 lbs and before I installed this I could not get 30% sag even with spring preload adjusted to max. Now I have 30% sag with preload adjusted to full min. I adjusted compression and rebound to compensate and the ride now is firm but planted and feels good, with plenty of preload adjustment for loaded up and/or 2 up. I am glad I did not go for the stiffer rear spring rate that K-Tech recommended for my weight. The fork springs were pretty good for me from the beginning, but I adjusted them to match the rear but now am finding that I'm at max rebound, so I'll probably add thicker fork oil in the future to compensate. So far I've only tried this setup on the street (some of the roads are terrible around here) and am happy with the results.
55944
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
I am glad I did not go for the stiffer rear spring rate that K-Tech recommended for my weight.
I don't know why but many suspension shops like to overspring the heck out of suspensions...imagine you set the preload to the minimum...with a stiffer spring you'd be in very uncomfortable territory. I've brought multiple bikes to multiple shops, and even if you tell them you don't mind it to ride like a KLR or that it can handle like a 1978 Parisienne, they always want it to ride like a Ferrari without any consideration for comfort. Which is great when you're on a race track but terrible on bad roads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I don't know why but many suspension shops like to overspring the heck out of suspensions...imagine you set the preload to the minimum...with a stiffer spring you'd be in very uncomfortable territory. I've brought multiple bikes to multiple shops, and even if you tell them you don't mind it to ride like a KLR or that it can handle like a 1978 Parisienne, they always want it to ride like a Ferrari without any consideration for comfort. Which is great when you're on a race track but terrible on bad roads.
Yes, it would be great if they showed comfort spring rates as well as their performance spring rates. K-Tech calls for a 105 NM spring for my weight which may be good if I'm going to do motocross, lol. I think the 95 NM is a little on the firm side, but should work great when I load up the bike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Thanks for posting and though I am losing weight (currently 240 lbs) I also will try OPs settings this weekend if it ever stops raining. ☔
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Per Motociclo over on ADV rider. Try fork rebound ¾ turn out from full hard and compression 4-clicks out from full hard.
You have the shock preload backwards. MAX preload is full clockwise ~32 clicks
OK this is extra advice, do you have a link so I can see more? Thx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Woah ! That's way more than I expected. But still good to have so I BM'd
Though I wonder if I do any of these mods if my 5 year extended warranty will be nullified. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and get the scoop.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
Woah ! That's way more than I expected. But still good to have so I BM'd
Though I wonder if I do any of these mods if my 5 year extended warranty will be nullified. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and get the scoop.
Only if your suspension fails directly due to the work that you have done on the suspension and even then it will not nullify the warranty remainder or as a whole. That repair won't be covered.

If you modify your suspension and the engine goes out for example, unless Honda can show a direct cause and effect to how that mod caused the engine to fail, they will warrant the engine.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Honda considers suspension a “Wear Item”.
Based on many posts, leaking seals will be covered. Heavy stiction maybe. Upper tube anodizing wear probably not.
Best to get your suspension sorted and enjoy the ride than worry about fork warranty.

A good suspension shop will put in better seals and wipers, check bushing fit in addition to installing correct springs for your weight with valving to match the springs and set proper oil level (springs in) so you won’t blow seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
After 5 weeks of daily tweaking, I have managed to have a working suspension setup with stock springs and shock. I would like to share this information for us fatties out there! I experienced high speed wobbles, had to constantly correct myself in corners and had a lot of bumby front situations at lower speeds. Honda aimed the suspension for 75 kg / 165 lbs / 12 st riders. Unfortunately, I am 108 kg / 238 lbs / 17 st.

My setup:
  • FRONT preload: 8 turns, starting from full SOFT.
  • FRONT compression damping: 2 clicks from full TIGHT.
  • FRONT rebound: 2 and a half turn from full TIGHT.
  • REAR preload: Maxed out, turned anti-clockwise untill you hear the first click.
  • REAR compression damping: stock settings (14 clicks from MAX).
  • REAR rebound: stock settings (11 clicks from MAX).
Testing situation:
  • Both my Tusk panniers, weighing 8 kg / 17 lbs total, have been removed.
  • I have equipped a front crash bar of around 6 kg / 13 lbs
  • Did a constant 160 kmph / 100 mph for about 20 km / 13 mi on the highway with a few fairly sharp exit lanes.
  • I intentionally pushed against the handlebars to the left and to the right on the highway and I'm satisfied the gyroscopic effect corrects my path and keeps me in a straight line without the handlebars feeling twitchy or 'light feathered'.
  • Did 50 kmph / 30 mph within city boundries, all on tarmac, both new and old pavement with tar snakes and speed bumps.
  • I have done a couple of full turns on a roundabout and ONLY noticed a slight oversteer in the back when I had to correct my speed and lean angle a bit while taking the long turning circle.
  • Road surface was wet. I can happily say I was really confident on cornering the bike hard for the first time since I owned it.
  • My AT runs on Dunlop Trailsmart Max, front 2.0 bar and back 2.6 bar.
I really hope this information will help you sort out any discomfort or trouble you are experiencing with your AT. The rear shock is simply not build for our weight. I'm convinced that if you apply these settings, you will regain control and a good level of comfort!
is your africa twin a dct???
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
1,750 Posts
It would probably be beneficial in the suspension setup posts for people to state MY and AT vs ATAS as well. Since there are differences between AT/ATAS and 2020+ models, etc.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
Top