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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Oh dear, the dreaded kill switch.
Away from home yesterday, stopped to get petrol. Killed the engine on the Ignition key (more on that later).
Went to start the bike and pressed the starter button and nothing happened. The switch was already jammed in the start position , I presume it had stayed there since I last started the bike. I tried to push the switch back to the mid position and it would not move. Panic set in !
I then used a bit more force and wiggled it and it came free and has been fine since. Switch moves to all 3 positions OK. So it would seem that I had been riding for some time with the button fully depressed in the engine start position.
I have some previous on Kill switches. My R1200RT switch jammed in the kill position, again wiggling it freed it but the switch was changed under warranty as it was a known fault. For that reason my confidence in kill switches has been minimal and on the ATAS I have never stopped the engine on the kill switch, instead I use the ignition switch
I know we could debate Kill Switch versus Ignition Key forever, the point is this three position switch has shown that it can jam in the fully depressed START position.
So for now I will report it to my dealer and every time I press the start button I will look to see that it springs back to the mid position.
 

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Thanks I'll keep an eye on mine now. I have not had reason to open this switch up yet (maybe I should ) but does anyone know if it's possible to open the switch up and spray with a lubricant to try and prevent it sticking or is it a sealed unit.
 

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Well that's all a bit rubbish.

I found the switch gear on my GS to be of the cheapest possible variety, which is also somewhat rubbish when the bike costs 15 grand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its held together with two screws. Might need to slide the Front brake reservoir along the bar to get at the screws. I did think of giving it a spray but I am waiting to see what the dealer says, e mailed him this morning.
For now my advice would be every time you start the bike look at the switch as you lift your finger and see that it returns to mid position. I might paint a dot on the switch so I can see the dot disappear as I lift my finger off
 

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It’s worrying that it seems to be the same problem as on the 16 and 17 bikes and yet the physical switch has been redesigned
When mine were replaced (17 Bike) they said Honda gave them 2.5 hours per switch because it was the wiring too
It would be very depressing if Honda are continuing to fit known suspect parts to new model bikes.
I was very annoyed that they fitted faulty switches faulty heated grips and single plated spokes to my 2017 Bike when they knew all about the problems for at least a year
Btw Kev. My switch did not seem to stick in but the internals were shorting out so that the engine would start without me needing to press the starter (and worse- the starter sometimes engaged at motorway speeds)
Mike
 
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