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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
a ? for all you electric guys out there as I'm not one

wanting to connect some battery jumper leads to the 16 DCT so I can directly plug my jumper to. getting to that battery with big alligator clips just to much of a P.I.T.A. the connector is a EC5 and the wires are 10 awg stranded. are my terminal rings beefy enough to handle the power?


 

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a ? for all you electric guys out there as I'm not one

wanting to connect some battery jumper leads to the 16 DCT so I can directly plug my jumper to. getting to that battery with big alligator clips just to much of a P.I.T.A. the connector is a EC5 and the wires are 10 awg stranded. are my terminal rings beefy enough to handle the power?


You should have a fuse in the cable on the positive side, preferably about 10A. The attached picture should give a general idea. Ring connectors on one end and an SAE connector on the other end
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should have a fuse in the cable on the positive side, preferably about 10A. The attached picture should give a general idea. Ring connectors on one end and an SAE connector on the other end
View attachment 75601
ive already got a battery tender on it. im not sure about running a jump charge thru an SAE connector and, at best, 14 gauge wire
 

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ive already got a battery tender on it. im not sure about running a jump charge thru an SAE connector and, at best, 14 gauge wire
Pick whatever size wire you are comfortable with. You are jump starting a motorcycle, not a V8 Diesel. A fuse in the positive side of the wire set is still good protection for your battery, its electrical system and anything else you may connect to the cable in the future such as a compressor or heated vest.
 

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Do yourself a favour if possible, solder, not crimp.
Crimp style connectors are notoriously bad for high current applications.
Any extra resistance in the connection results in a voltage drop, but more importantly, heat.
I usually get a pair of long nose pliers and twist off the yellow crimp barrel and solder the wire directly to the remaining 'cup'.
One obviously needs a soldering iron, solder and heat shrink, if you can sort those, it'll be a better job.
Alternatively, ditch the el-cheapo crimp and upsize to a better quality connector.
 

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Automotive lighting Product Cable Data transfer cable Auto part
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Here's what I purchased from Amazon. I hooked one end up permanently to the battery and left the end under the seat. The other part, I keep in my luggage in case it's needed. I haven't used it yet. Both pieces are barely $20 US. Links to Amazon are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076LD1B3K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079ZTBHYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
This could be a little light weight for cranking but should charge the battery back up. They have the same type cables in heavier gauge also.
 

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If you want to throw a quick recharge into the low battery on your bike, 10-gauge cables are good. If you want to crank the engine from a completely flat battery, they probably won't be big enough. What size are the battery cables from the battery to the starter motor and ground? Need to be close to that.
 

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I always wondered IF one can make a permanent Jumper Cable setup attached directly to Starter Motor, or to Starter Solenoid, by-passing the Battery, thus not letting high amps current to be anywhere near the battery.
You know, with the BMS circuit inside battery, If I can jump and crank engine away from battery, to avoid disturb this BMS.
 

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a ? for all you electric guys out there as I'm not one

wanting to connect some battery jumper leads to the 16 DCT so I can directly plug my jumper to. getting to that battery with big alligator clips just to much of a P.I.T.A. the connector is a EC5 and the wires are 10 awg stranded. are my terminal rings beefy enough to handle the power?


Why reinvent the wheel? Just purchase the item below:
It has all the necessary safety built in, however, will be jump start only. You can't run any accessory off it.
The safety (black box) circuit prevents any amps to flow back to jumper batt. (main safety feature)
But allows charge to go to main batt with an EC5 to SAE adapter.
 

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This is my solution, safely covered by the seat. It's been on my 2017 ABS for that long that I can't remember all of the fitment details.
The big picture is that you need the largest possible connection to the wiring between your battery and your starter motor. Negative - who cares! Just find a good spot on the frame. But, the positive must be really well insulated (un-fused wiring) and the connection post in a place where a jumper cable clamp can get a good bite and be left safely.
Sorry but I haven't pulled the heat shrink off the post, but I'm sure you get the idea. The plastic bag along the right side contains a sheet with a hole for the terminal so there is no chance of the positive clamp earthing out.
Sure, a lightweight connection may get you out of trouble if the cranking voltage is dropping to 8 Volts and the computer is no longer playing, but if the battery has dropped a few cells on a cold winters night, you are going to need some serious amperage.
Once again though, this is an unfused connection and must be really robust and well insulated.
 
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