The manual says no boosting to restart due to possible damage to battery or bike electronics. This may be to escape liability for mistakes being made during the process. I suspect proper procedures on an attempt to boost start would reduce or eliminate the possible pitfalls. Don't reverse polarity would be the biggest issue. Leave the boosting vehicle turned off to avoid any surges. Most recommend positive post to positive post and chassis to chassis for the connections. I grew up in an age when there were positive and negative ground systems found on vehicles. My father, a mechanic by trade, always taught positive post to positive post and negative post to negative post to avoid crossing the polarity. With new vehicles it may not be a problem but if in doubt I stick with my father's recommendations. I know the mid '60's Datsun Fairlady used a positive ground alternator. Frying its alternator may be inconvenient but not too expensive to replace. On the other hand frying the computers in a new car could be a major financial expense.Thanks. Thought so but wasn't sure. Normally have jumper cables so no issue really.
Generally agreed.Yea most likely because of a direct surge to the battery, most ppl have the other vehicle running so it’s pushing 14v or better. Hooking that directly to your battery would not be good. But another jump pack with a li-ion battery of lesser amperage and the same voltage should do no harm. Especially if you just connect and start, before it heats the battery from rapid charging it... if the manufacturer said ‘yea you can jump start it’”, inevitably someone would hook it directly terminal to terminal on a running vehicle and I would imagine that all that extra voltage being suddenly and rapidly dumped into the battery might not be a pretty sight...
Totally agree with you, yep there are “walk around’ s” and I positive it can de done safely and with no harm to the battery.Generally agreed.
However, the alert AT owner could also consider:
* Not having the host vehicle (car) engine running. The AT only needs a fraction of available capacity of a [car] battery.
* If the host is a running motorcycle, then a connect-up surge will be limited compared to a car, and likely similar as if it is from its own generation subsystem.
* I suppose another possibility is to disconnect the AT battery (one side), connect the AT to the host battery, turn on and start the AT, remove the host connection, and restore the AT battery connection.
Keep in mind that as the battery weakens, it will draw more current anyway when charging.