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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can a 2020 ATAS DCT be bump started? Is the tranny a true automatic in the sense that it can't be put into 1st or 2nd and pushed to start with a dead battery?
 

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It can be dragged behind a cage I suppose. Maybe better to pack a set of jumper cables, or an extra battery.
 

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No can do. Without engine running the oil pressure is not there to engage the clutch even if the transmission is in gear;
essentially no piston movement.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. Thought so but wasn't sure. Normally have jumper cables so no issue really.
 

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Thanks. Thought so but wasn't sure. Normally have jumper cables so no issue really.
The manual says no boosting to restart due to possible damage to battery or bike electronics. This may be to escape liability for mistakes being made during the process. I suspect proper procedures on an attempt to boost start would reduce or eliminate the possible pitfalls. Don't reverse polarity would be the biggest issue. Leave the boosting vehicle turned off to avoid any surges. Most recommend positive post to positive post and chassis to chassis for the connections. I grew up in an age when there were positive and negative ground systems found on vehicles. My father, a mechanic by trade, always taught positive post to positive post and negative post to negative post to avoid crossing the polarity. With new vehicles it may not be a problem but if in doubt I stick with my father's recommendations. I know the mid '60's Datsun Fairlady used a positive ground alternator. Frying its alternator may be inconvenient but not too expensive to replace. On the other hand frying the computers in a new car could be a major financial expense.
 

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The battery is also in a shite place to access, not needed to access yet, but gone are simple days of just under the set and there you go
 

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Bump starting is not "Jump starting" but the OP got an answer.
FYI about newer AT (2018+) DCT owners.
Your bike has a very expensive lithium battery with questionable results if jump started.
 

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If you are so concerned about the battery going flat... perhaps a good start would be to remove anything that might actually do that.

This why I have neither an alarm or a tracker on mine. And the GPS is removed from the bike every time its parked up.

If you cannot do this then you really should consider a Lithium ready battery tender.
 

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Yea most likely because of a direct surge to the battery, most ppl have the other vehicle running so it’s pushing 14v or better. Hooking that directly to your battery would not be good. But another jump pack with a li-ion battery of lesser amperage and the same voltage should do no harm. Especially if you just connect and start, before it heats the battery from rapid charging it... if the manufacturer said ‘yea you can jump start it’”, inevitably someone would hook it directly terminal to terminal on a running vehicle and I would imagine that all that extra voltage being suddenly and rapidly dumped into the battery might not be a pretty sight...
 

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Yea most likely because of a direct surge to the battery, most ppl have the other vehicle running so it’s pushing 14v or better. Hooking that directly to your battery would not be good. But another jump pack with a li-ion battery of lesser amperage and the same voltage should do no harm. Especially if you just connect and start, before it heats the battery from rapid charging it... if the manufacturer said ‘yea you can jump start it’”, inevitably someone would hook it directly terminal to terminal on a running vehicle and I would imagine that all that extra voltage being suddenly and rapidly dumped into the battery might not be a pretty sight...
Generally agreed.

However, the alert AT owner could also consider:

* Not having the host vehicle (car) engine running. The AT only needs a fraction of available capacity of a [car] battery.
* If the host is a running motorcycle, then a connect-up surge will be limited compared to a car, and likely similar as if it is from its own generation subsystem.
* I suppose another possibility is to disconnect the AT battery (one side), connect the AT to the host battery, turn on and start the AT, remove the host connection, and restore the AT battery connection.

Keep in mind that as the battery weakens, it will draw more current anyway when charging.
 

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Generally agreed.

However, the alert AT owner could also consider:

* Not having the host vehicle (car) engine running. The AT only needs a fraction of available capacity of a [car] battery.
* If the host is a running motorcycle, then a connect-up surge will be limited compared to a car, and likely similar as if it is from its own generation subsystem.
* I suppose another possibility is to disconnect the AT battery (one side), connect the AT to the host battery, turn on and start the AT, remove the host connection, and restore the AT battery connection.

Keep in mind that as the battery weakens, it will draw more current anyway when charging.
Totally agree with you, yep there are “walk around’ s” and I positive it can de done safely and with no harm to the battery.
But as a species WE ARE LAZY and someone will take a “shortcut” or just plain do it wrong and these batteries explode violently, so it’s just safer for the manufacturers and Honda to say no..
 
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LiFE batteries are 14+ volt to start with. I used to charge five LiPO single cell helicopter batteries with a single charger using a 5 into one pigtail. They naturally balance charge. I don't see any harm as long as they are hooked in parallel.

The Shorai LiFE battery I put in my FJR1300 has a balance charge port that balance charges the individual cells inside the battery which is slightly better than charging all the cells in series like the stator on the bike charges.

A buddy went off the road and in my rush to help him, I left my key on with my phone charging in the storage bin and Garmin GPS still on. The Shorai went into low voltage shut off after 30 minutes. (Lithium type batteries become highly flammable if discharged too much so they have a chip to shut them off). It was as if the bike had no battery at all. Fortunately, my buddy had a jump pack. We put it on the battery, fired up the bike and all was well.
 

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I installed an EKlipes battery jump kit and routed connectors for jump starting up under the seat where I also had room to store the jump cables and alligator clips avoiding the need to open the battery case. Also provides an easy access trickle charge.
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