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Do I need to replace these (as per the manual) or is it not really necessary? I removed the front callipers to get the front wheel out.
 

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Do I need to replace these (as per the manual) or is it not really necessary? I removed the front callipers to get the front wheel out.
If you have a look around the Forum there was a decent length thread chatting about this very topic. I recall the consensus was no.

Someone also said you could remove the front without taking callers off - though I took them off and retorqued to manual settings.

I guess a metallurgist can advise. These parts do stretch I guess. But I've got a few bikes and I don't replace the caller bolts on any others.

I guess a question how many times a year you'll have the wheels out...

Surely two or three must be OK?

Stuart
 

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Don't need to unbolt the callipers. Throw some gaffer tape on the rim if you are worried about scratches.
Remove the lower fender screws, pull the axle then rotate the lower fork legs to squeeze the tyre out between the callipers.
Carefull with the bottom fork leg near axle hole to not scratch the disks.
Reverse procedure to reinstall.

I believe Honda recommends replacing caliber bolts, because new ones are coated with thread locking compound. Bolts like those on callipers are never torqued enough to yield.
 

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I’ve had my caliper bolts out several times now. I always torque them up as per the manual and in all the bikes I’ve ever owned, I’ve never ever replaced said bolts and live to tell the tale.
 

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I also understood the issue to be the dry thread lock. I don't really understand why Locktite 243 or 262 wouldn't be a suitable substitute when reinstalling.
 

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I've changed my own tires for years. The VFR, same as the AT, says use new bolts. I think I changed six sets of tires on the VFR. In the past 14,000 miles on the AT I've had the wheels off twice already.

I always clean with brake cleaner and apply medium thread lock on used caliper bolts.

Like Davie F posted, still alive....
 
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