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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the 600 mile check, I had not checked chain slack after 2700 quick miles. Luckily, a 1 &1/16th inch socket fits the 27mm axel nut. I don't have any metrics that large. Probably shift a lot cleaner now!

Be sure and check those chains!
 

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After the 600 mile check, I had not checked chain slack after 2700 quick miles. Luckily, a 1 &1/16th inch socket fits the 27mm axel nut. I don't have any metrics that large. Probably shift a lot cleaner now!

Be sure and check those chains!
Mine seems fine (no adjustment) at 4000 miles and I was surprised to find the alignment spot on as the technicians usually manage to get this wrong (or don't bother checking)
Mike
 

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After 4300 miles (7000 km) I had to adjust my chain. I adjusted the slack and checked the alignment spots and everything looked ok.

I had also bought a laser tool from Germany (see link) and checked again the alignment with this laser tool. According to the laser the wheel was not correctly aligned on the svingarm. So I adjusted the wheel after the laser instead of the alignment spots.

Have anyone else used this laser tool?


https://www.profi-products.de/en/pr...gnment/3/profi-se-cat-in-aluminum-housing?c=6
 

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At 2800 miles I played with the adjustment to see if the new axle wrenches worked as advertised. The chain didn't need adjustment but from what I've read the chain seems very durable.

Best Rest axle wrenches, uses the tire irons for levers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a nice tool! I use the Motion Pro tool that clamps to the sprocket and uses a rod to indicate alignment. At any rate, sprocket alignment is an important and often neglected detail.:smile2:
 

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Probably a simple question...Manual says to check and adjust chain on side stand. I always though it easier to be done on the centre stand (well it must be easier to keep the wheel straight when tensioning?). I get that with the bike not on the centre stand the suspension will affect chain tension. is there much wrong with adjusting it on the centre stand or is there a trick to doing it on the side stand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't have a center stand, so I have no choice but go strictly by the manual.

I assume the manual takes into account suspension compression when measuring free play of the chain.

No doubt, the slack will be different if it is set with the bike on the center stand. It looks to me like it would tend to be tight if adjusted that way. Good luck!
 

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So while I keep the chain well lubricated and see no issues with excessive slack at 3,700 miles, the outside plates of each link are quite rusty. Is this normal?
 

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Chain maintenance

Its easier to do adjustment on the centre stand then check tension is OK on side stand. You quickly get a feel for how the tension varies between centre stand and side stand. As regards chain lub and rusty side plates:
The main bits that are loaded and wear on a chain are lubricated and sealed for life with O rings. When you lub the chain you are:
1. Stopping the outer surfaces rusting
2. keeping the O rings lubricated so that they do not dry out and break up /wear
3. keeping the surfaces that come into contact lubricated, ie sprocket and chain.
There are many lubricants, wax types are popular but I prefer those that are more penetrating and less gungey. I use XCP. Lubing without cleaning is fine if you are away from home but long term lubing without cleaning is just building up a big mess on the chain.
 

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So while I keep the chain well lubricated and see no issues with excessive slack at 3,700 miles, the outside plates of each link are quite rusty. Is this normal?
My KLR's chain exhibits a rustiness often on the chain outside side plates and it has never been an issue. I just lube it and wipe the chain down afterwards. I have yet to see any rust on my AT chain (at 3,200 miles) though. But it may not be an issue either because the AT comes with a hefty chain and a rusty appearance on the side plates won't hurt anything. By the way has the bike been ridden in the rain? Road splash is loaded with crap that can cause a rusty appearance. Lube it, wipe it down and see if it goes away.
 

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My KLR's chain exhibits a rustiness often on the chain outside side plates and it has never been an issue. I just lube it and wipe the chain down afterwards. I have yet to see any rust on my AT chain (at 3,200 miles) though. But it may not be an issue either because the AT comes with a hefty chain and a rusty appearance on the side plates won't hurt anything. By the way has the bike been ridden in the rain? Road splash is loaded with crap that can cause a rusty appearance. Lube it, wipe it down and see if it goes away.
Yeah, I park outside — not always with a cover — and it's been raining lately. I'll lube this weekend and see if the chain cleaning brush and a light pass with a rust eraser helps at all. Thanks.
 

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I agree that rust on the outside of the link plates is just a cosmetic issue but if the chain shows rust its a warning that the surfaces that come into contact may need some lub. However I have found that after washing the bike the water left on the chain leaves rust spots on the link plates even though the chain may have recently been lubed.
 

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I agree that rust on the outside of the link plates is just a cosmetic issue but if the chain shows rust its a warning that the surfaces that come into contact may need some lub. However I have found that after washing the bike the water left on the chain leaves rust spots on the link plates even though the chain may have recently been lubed.
Yeah Kev - I have found the same. Honda say you have to rinse the bike in clean water after a ride (in winter), and inevitably that puts water on the well lubed chain. Despite me using a Sidekick airblaster to dry the chain throughly, the rust still appears.
Mike
 

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Yeah Kev - I have found the same. Honda say you have to rinse the bike in clean water after a ride (in winter), and inevitably that puts water on the well lubed chain. Despite me using a Sidekick airblaster to dry the chain throughly, the rust still appears.
Mike
Same happens to me!
 

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So while I keep the chain well lubricated and see no issues with excessive slack at 3,700 miles, the outside plates of each link are quite rusty. Is this normal?
They can easily get that way after just a few days after being in the wet, even after a wash. It is only a light surface coating and nothing to get worried about. When lubing your chain you are only really lubrication the O-Ring as the lubrication grease is sealed in by them and it is those you are keeping in good order. If you wash your bike (or go out in the wet) just wipe the chain with a rag to clear off any excess water and lube your chain then. After lubing your chain you might wipe it down with a rag to spread a little lube all over the chain to prevent the rust.
 

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Do you do your own maintenance? Otherwise I would be surprised if the dealership isn't checking it. Mine checks and adjusts it anytime I have the bike in.
Its a bit mixed. I do my own oil changes, but anything beyond oil I have the dealer do. I am sure they are checking it when I go in. :) I just wanted to be dramatic! hahaha
 
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