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My 2017 AT DCT owners manual says to check coolant level when the bike is cold. The Honda shop manual says to check it when the motor is hot? WTFO?

Anyone know what the real answer is? Check hot or cold????
 

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Haynes Manual says nothing about temperature. engine running etc.

I've been looking at it cold, with the bike on the centre stand.

I'll have a look tomorrow, see if there is any discernible difference between the levels when hot and after its cooled down.

owners manual for my bike is copyright 2017. the shop manual dates back to 2015. i'll stick with the up to date advice. I reckon the most important aspect is being consistent in how you do the check.
 

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If you can see coolant in the overflow tank , that’s good ? When you remove the radiator cap & you can see coolant inside the radiator, hot or cold that’s good ? it’s that easy ???
 

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Coolant expands into the overflow tank when the engine warms up and gets sucked back into the radiator as it cools. As long as there's enough airspace to take the extra hot coolant, and enough cold coolant so that it won't go empty when it cools back down, you're good.
 

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Hey all, just wanted to clear something up. Did my first (ever) valve check last week and removed rads for convenience (glad I did) which meant I had to do my first coolant flush/change. As per manual I made sure the overflow tank and rad were topped up, did the warm up for 3 mins then revved the engine a couple of times and topped up rad a little to marker. Went for a 30minute ride all was good, checked rad next morning the coolant had dropped to just above fins, so i topped up again and did the warm engine/rev procedure again, but this time coolant started to rise rather than drop so I used a syringe to remove a bit. I'm not sure how the cooling system works so this confused me.

Anyway, coolant level on overflow tank is at max and above fins in rad....assuming this is fine?
 

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Hey all, just wanted to clear something up. Did my first (ever) valve check last week and removed rads for convenience (glad I did) which meant I had to do my first coolant flush/change. As per manual I made sure the overflow tank and rad were topped up, did the warm up for 3 mins then revved the engine a couple of times and topped up rad a little to marker. Went for a 30minute ride all was good, checked rad next morning the coolant had dropped to just above fins, so i topped up again and did the warm engine/rev procedure again, but this time coolant started to rise rather than drop so I used a syringe to remove a bit. I'm not sure how the cooling system works so this confused me.

Anyway, coolant level on overflow tank is at max and above fins in rad....assuming this is fine?
I have noticed it needs to warm up quite a bit and then it takes a big gulp of the fluid out of the radiator, not sure if thats the thermostat opening or not. It always seems to take much longer that 3 mins before that happens.When it starts to rise like that its when I put the cap back on. You want the coolant in the rad to be right up to the cap so no air gap in there at all, so when its hot it pushes past the cap and down into the overflow and when it cools down it sucks it back.
I have done 3 valve checks now, you will find it gets much faster to do with practice and its no big deal not to remove the rads, I just unbolt them I dont even remove the plastics from the left one.

The key think with the coolant is to make sure you use the silicate-free corrosion inhibitors mix to stop wear in the water pump
 

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Thanks SkipD, does the overflow tank have an overspill hole? I was worried too much coolant would cause damage from pressure build up etc.

Would you recommend I top up to rad brim when cold or warm up bike first and check coolant in rad and add juice if it doesn't rise?

Btw I used Motul Motocool, which is 'ready to use' after a recommendation from a friend.
 

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There should be an overflow hose from the overflow reservoir?

If you cannot attain Motocool, this is also quite acceptable and recommended by Honda (of course):

55182
 

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My 2017 AT DCT owners manual says to check coolant level when the bike is cold. The Honda shop manual says to check it when the motor is hot? WTFO?

Anyone know what the real answer is? Check hot or cold????
It would depend where you are checking. If checking at the overflow tank it may not matter. There are full and low indicators on the tank. If the engine is hot it should be near the upper limit, cold closer to the lower limit but not below.

If you are checking at the radiator cap, then check with a cold engine, never a warm or hot engine. The coolant should be at or very close to the top with all the rad's tubing submerged in the coolant.
 

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Hey all, just wanted to clear something up. Did my first (ever) valve check last week and removed rads for convenience (glad I did) which meant I had to do my first coolant flush/change. As per manual I made sure the overflow tank and rad were topped up, did the warm up for 3 mins then revved the engine a couple of times and topped up rad a little to marker. Went for a 30minute ride all was good, checked rad next morning the coolant had dropped to just above fins, so i topped up again and did the warm engine/rev procedure again, but this time coolant started to rise rather than drop so I used a syringe to remove a bit. I'm not sure how the cooling system works so this confused me.

Anyway, coolant level on overflow tank is at max and above fins in rad....assuming this is fine?
When filling the rad with new coolant fill to the top. Start the engine with the rad cap still off and warm the engine up enough for the thermostat to open. You will see the coolant level in the rad drop as this happens. Let it run a bit more to help clear any air trapped in the system. Top off the rad. You may want to run the engine a bit more to ensure all air has been purged. Refill the rad if necessary. Check the level in the overflow tank. If empty, you may want to add to the low level line. Put everything back together and go for a ride. Check the overflow tank later to make sure it shows the correct amount of coolant. Assuming the system it tight with no leaks you should be able to add any needed coolant to the overflow tank at this point.
 

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Thanks SkipD, does the overflow tank have an overspill hole? I was worried too much coolant would cause damage from pressure build up etc.

Would you recommend I top up to rad brim when cold or warm up bike first and check coolant in rad and add juice if it doesn't rise?

Btw I used Motul Motocool, which is 'ready to use' after a recommendation from a friend.
You cant overfill the radiators top it right up when cold (you are likely to get more in when cold), yes the overflow tank has a drain hose (just remember its not far from your rear wheel where it drains to) so keep that under the max level on the side of the tank, if you need to take some out of the tank just put a tube in there block off the end with your thumb and take a bit out at a time.
Make sure the Motocool actually says silicate free otherwise it wont be.
 

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Thanks for the info guys, looks like Motocool Expert is 'Nitrite free / Amine free / Phosphate free' but no mention of it being silicate free. Also saw a thread on ADV titled 'Motul Motocool silicate bomb for waterpump' so now slightly concerned as there are not so many coolant options where I am currently based (Istanbul/Turkey). Is there some kind of readily available additive I could add?

EDIT - although the prospectus says Motocool Expert is 'seal, rubber pipes and plastics friendly' - peace of mind?
 

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Can you get the Pro Honda HP Coolant 50/50 premix silica free product from you local Honda source?

Honda Powersports also sells a non-HP variant too, which is cheaper and compatible.
 

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Will be checking with my dealer tommorrow (public holiday today) will see if they do. I just noted on the Motocool prospectus it is 'seal, rubber pipes and plastics friendly', safe or not you think?

Was also just checking for coolant for my WR250R and noted Yamalube Coolant is silicate free AND it's blue...making it much easier to see in tank 😅

Would it be a sin to put Blue fluids in a Red bike....even though I love them both just as much!!??
 

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Will be checking with my dealer tommorrow (public holiday today) will see if they do. I just noted on the Motocool prospectus it is 'seal, rubber pipes and plastics friendly', safe or not you think?

Was also just checking for coolant for my WR250R and noted Yamalube Coolant is silicate free AND it's blue...making it much easier to see in tank 😅

Would it be a sin to put Blue fluids in a Red bike....even though I love them both just as much!!??
Go with the Yamalube then,(I would change it out if I was you) does not matter who makes it, if its not silicate free it will wear the water pump parts. The stuff I put in is blue as well not sure what brand it was.
 

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Will be checking with my dealer tommorrow (public holiday today) will see if they do. I just noted on the Motocool prospectus it is 'seal, rubber pipes and plastics friendly', safe or not you think?

Was also just checking for coolant for my WR250R and noted Yamalube Coolant is silicate free AND it's blue...making it much easier to see in tank

Would it be a sin to put Blue fluids in a Red bike....even though I love them both just as much!!??
Do you have a Honda automobile dealership near you? I believe that they also require silicate free coolant.

Also I recall a post on another forum that said that they contacted Prestone and received confirmation that the Prestone Extended Life was silicate free. You could always double check that with Prestone.

Also Zerex Dex-Cool is both phosfate and silicate free.



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Hey all thanks for the replies and suggestions. I called Honda, they dont sell coolant as a spare 'part' wtf?!

I've ordered some silicate free yamalube for my WR and extra for the AT. Unfortunately Honda doesnt have any drain bolt washers to hand and will take up to 2 months for them to arrive (Corona??). I went out and purchased some copper washers 6/11mm dimensions...ok to use or potential PITA factor?
 

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Hey all thanks for the replies and suggestions. I called Honda, they dont sell coolant as a spare 'part' wtf?!

I've ordered some silicate free yamalube for my WR and extra for the AT. Unfortunately Honda doesnt have any drain bolt washers to hand and will take up to 2 months for them to arrive (Corona??). I went out and purchased some copper washers 6/11mm dimensions...ok to use or potential PITA factor?
It's interesting that Honda would tell you that. Perhaps just not where you are located? They carry it on the shelf at my local dealer...


I have heard more than once that the Zerex is chemically identical to the Honda coolant and may perhaps even be who manufacturers the coolant for Honda under the ProHonda label. I don't believe Honda manufacturers any of their ProHonda chemicals themselves and they aren't alone in that.

You will be fine with the Yamilube. I believe the majority of coolants manufacturered these days are silicate free.

I am not sure what to suggest on the washers though

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You know, they've had aluminum engines in cars for 50 years. Why do we have to LOOK for "silicate free" antifreeze? Why wouldn't ALL antifreeze be silicate free by now?
 
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