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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On a recent challenging rocky hill climb I lost my clutch. Lever lost all free play and eventually I could no longer put power down. I've had similar things happen before but not like this. I was able to loosen the bar adjustment nut to get just enough to grab to get home.

Once home I adjusted the lower adjustment nuts and was able to get what is mostly normal use back, however, I still feel like its slipping going WOT. As in the motor RPM increases more quickly than my speed forward, but just barley now? I mean I think its slipping, but would not be shocked to find out I am feeling torque control or this is some slipper clutch mechanism and it + new tires + paranoia explains my concerns.

I intend on calling the shop today, but turn around time is not fast and I of course have a bike camping trip planned this weekend.

It does appear that maybe the lower clutch adjustment slipped, but I am fairly confident something else is going on. What could/would cause this. Clutch basket failed or something??
 

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I would be very surprised if you clutch was toast on that new of a bike. How many miles?

I would assume it would be a mix of all the electronic nannies that are trying to keep you from falling/spinning or tipping backwards.

What are you traction control settings while this is occurring?

Having the clutch adjusted too far out or in(depends on how you look at it), never allowing full pressure to be applied will cause this "Turbo Lag" sensation.

I would loosen the adjustment nuts and allow the cable to relax. Then tighten up the bottom middle of the way and adjust the top from there. Hopefully you will get lever feel again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I agree, a clutch failure at this point would be extremely concerning, but frankly i've never felt this before, which is why I am concerned its less of a setting issue and more of a clutch issue!

Bike has just under 5k miles so way, way to early for a failure. I do feather the clutch a ton when the going gets tough, but i've been on this trail on this bike (different tires) with no issues before. I also have the auto-blip and so honestly rarely even USE the clutch when I am not off road.

I know the clutch was slipping prior to the adjustment, and giving a soft cable helps significantly. That might be all it is. But, I have a 2 night camping trip planned for the weekend for some BDR action, and my concern is this is a slowing failing type of thing at this point where the more I ride the worse it gets. Made it out of the woods just barley yesterday, not looking for a repeat this weekend.
 

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This maybe???
 

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It might have been pulled up on a drop and let the spring out. Lay the bike on its side and crack the case.
 

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Adjust your clutch lever so when you ride with inner two fingers on clutch and outer two fingers wrapped around the bar the clutch fully disengages when you pull it in to touch your fingers and it is fully engaged when lever is out.
Check the cable free-play at the clutch lever - bars at full lock left and full lock right - you should always have some free-play with the lever fully out. You can also check the clutch arm on the transmission - with clutch lever fully out you should have a bit of free movement.
Sounds like with lever fully out you did not have any free-play slack. Once the clutch starts to slip and heats up it's not good.
If engine revs are rising and speed is not then your clutch is slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you both!

I read through that thread last night and I am worried that the end result is similar. Curiously are the 1000 and 1100 tranny's mostly the same? Are parts interchangeable at all?

I am afraid cracking the case is probably going to be needed, but the **** things under warranty and I'd rather have the tech's do it with the right tools, then my ******* ass out the front of my house

Edit: I was not aware red neck was a bad word!!
 

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I've got a DCT but on previous bikes with clutches there was a factory 'free play' setting level at the lever of = or - a certain amount of mm tolerance measured at the lever and it's stop. Surely the Honda manual has the same thing in it for this bike?? There was also an advised setting position for the clutch arm at the other end before you adjust at the bars. no doubt one of the site boffins will have the answer if you just give them a bit of time. 😬 👨‍🎓 But there again you are going away riding soon!!
 

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Thank you both!

I read through that thread last night and I am worried that the end result is similar. Curiously are the 1000 and 1100 tranny's mostly the same? Are parts interchangeable at all?

I am afraid cracking the case is probably going to be needed, but the ** things under warranty and I'd rather have the tech's do it with the right tools, then my * ass out the front of my house

Edit: I was not aware red neck was a bad word!!
The trannys do NOT appear to be the same. Very minor differences and the part numbers are a bit different. If you are confident that the clutch free-play is set properly then I am thinking your only other choice is to pull the side case off.
 
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