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Converting to tubeless

8K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  Moto Vita 
#1 ·
I own a 2019 AT (non-DCT) and I am sure this question has probably come up million times. I had a flat on Saturday in my rear Shinko Tubeless tire and turns out it has a tube in it as well. Leaning towards converting it to tubeless since it is easier to patch it and for other reasons as well.

1. Is this advisable?
2. How much does it cost?
3. Is it reliable?
4. What is the correct approach?

Thanks in advance!

Ramjee
 
#2 ·
This method is the most economical and works quite well with proper prep.




Or you can spend close to $2,000 and buy tubeless wheels.

 
#6 ·
I converted my reat AT wheel to tubeless using the 3M N4412 tape and polyurethane sealant over 2 years ago and 3 sets of tires. I have had no issues at all. As others have said - prep is important. I also used the 3m adhesion promoter cleaner. I did not convert the front wheel as the rim does not have the safety bead as should be used with a tubless tire. The front is also a whole lot easier to replace a tube in than the rear when on the road.
 
#8 ·
I purchased a Outex system for the rear and TPMS 12 months ago but have yet to install it. Waiting for a tyre change as my current bridgestone's are a tube type.
I would like to somehow try and protect the outex from being punctured. Does anyone have suggestions?
I chose not to do the front conversion. Not because of the lack of the safety bead but because of "see pic".
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Bicycle tire

The rider managed to limp home after hitting a cattle grate.
Any ideas welcomed
 
#9 ·
I purchased a Outex system for the rear and TPMS 12 months ago but have yet to install it. Waiting for a tyre change as my current bridgestone's are a tube type.
I would like to somehow try and protect the outex from being punctured. Does anyone have suggestions?
I chose not to do the front conversion. Not because of the lack of the safety bead but because of "see pic".
View attachment 78838
The rider managed to limp home after hitting a cattle grate.
Any ideas welcomed
Heh, if bending rims is a thing, then yes, tube is the way to go (yikes).

Outex puncture? Do you mean if a spoke punches through the application?
 
#14 ·
Knowing nothing specific about Slime, I do speculate it might be polymer-based, and if so, could be compatible with Outex.

If the Outex adhesive is water-based, then it could be problematic. <-- [edit] Actually maybe not likely true since its thin layer tape is directly exposed to any water that would enter in from the spoke end.

Experiment with vigilance.
 
#18 ·
Well,
I figure I might as well join in on the conversation. Yep, I did the 3M conversion about 15-16 months ago on my '18 A/T - A/S- DCT and it's been flawless ever since. I took my time, constantly red comments on here and checked out many videos on the process. I'd have gone with the Outex system but I figured what the heck, let's try the 3M system. I used 3M 5200 sealant around all the spoke heads and then 3M 4212 (I think that's the number) sealing tape on the rims over all the sealed spoke heads.

My process was to ultra thoroughly clean the rims. Then, use Alcohol to really wipe, in detail around each spoke head and finally, I used a heat gun to really make sure any and all moisture was dissipated from around each one. I got that rim almost too hot to handle. I then applied the 3M5200. The heat made that sealant flow really nice around each head. I let that cure for about 36 hours if I recall.

Then, I heated that rim again. I used a heat gun, not a torch. Then the tape application. Having that rim heated, really caused that tape to adhere. If I wanted to re-position the tape for any reason, TOO BAD, IT AIN'T MOVING! When the tape was finished being applied, I used one of those little steel knurled rollers you use for rolling patches on tubes to really seat that tape in twenty million directions (almost exaggerating here). I really wanted that tape to be seated.

Once done, I made the only mistake in the process. I re-installed the original rubber spoke head protector band. BIG MISTAKE! I later corrected that. But, I installed two brand new Dunlop Trailmax Mission tires at that time too. Man, what a pain in the A$$ that rear one was. I finally got it.

Those tires and wheels have been on there now for around 14 months or more and I've not lost a single pound of air other than ambient temp changes which is normal. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
Scott
 

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#20 ·
I did both the front and rear on my 2017 using OTEX. As everyone else says prep is key. I did nine 2 years ago, 17000km and 3 tire changes. The only issue I had, was one of the rear tires would not seal at the bead in one location. a small dab of silicone on that spot on the bead and all was well. As for the front tire not having the ridge for a tubeless tire. I had a tube blow on the highway a number of years back on the front. The tire folded over in the blink of an eye sending me across the road into the oncoming lane ZERO directional control of the bike. When I stopped the tire was off the bead sitting in the center of the rim. So someone will have to explain to me what difference it makes if there is a tube in it or not when it goes flat.
 
#26 · (Edited)
The safety bead is there for one reason. It is to prevent the tire bead from unseating and allowing the air to escape froma tubeless tire. That is why it is on a tubeless rim and not on a tubed type rim. In many cases(some have it others don't but no tubeless wheel does not have a safey bead. Once the air is gone the tire becomes deflated like a Chinese balloon and the safety bead does little to hold it in place as the tire can fold over on itself. Regardless of what you find online, the fact is that the safety bead offers nothing after the air is out of the tire. You can ask anyone who has had a flat tire with a tubeless rim and safety bead - the bike will become unstable with a flat tire even with a safety bead.
There is a lot of mis-information published that is inaccurate.
 
#28 ·
Yes you are correct, it is there to prevent the bead from unseating and allowing the tire to deflate because there is no tube. It also helps retain the tire from deflation from any impact regardless of the pressure. It is not made to retain the tire after the pressure is lost. It is only there to prevent deflation from unseating the bead. This is why many tubed tire rims do not have a safety bead. The tubed tire can be unseated from an impact but the tube is there to prevent deflation so the tire does not deflate and the tire just pops back onto the bead seat. This is why many serious off roaders want tubed tires not tubeless.
 
#29 ·
I don't want to start a fire here with any added friction, however there is no safety bead strong enough to keep a underinflated tire on the rim, especially on a 500lbs motorcycle with twin rotors up front. It may help you get to the side of the road, with your seat wedged incredibly high between your cheeks, but you are not rolling away under power until that tire is inflated again. Underinflated may be subjective and the exact pressure could be different from tire to tire the only way to keep an underinflated or extremely under inflated tire in place would be a bead lock system that you see on rock crawling 4x4 vehicles. They don't have such systems for Tubeless motorcycle tires( that I know of). If you are running low pressures you should have a tube or mouse(not recommended for road use) and a Rim lock to prevent your tire from slipping on the rim and slicing off the valve stem of a tube. Please be careful if you are dropping pressures below the recommended ranges especially after you have converted to tubeless or have tubeless. I would bring a tube along for the ride out if you accidentally find out what the threshold for your bead is. Again I am not a pro or a mechanic but this is all from my general knowledge and my personal experience(which is limited in comparison to many other members here). Ride Safe!!!
 
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