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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Good day all,

I'm about to pull the trigger on a '16 red/blk DCT as I really enjoyed, (much to my surprise), the "auto" during my test ride.
DCT didn't spoil the fun as I expected; guess I just love to ride, but then I've not been riding in some time and was also likely just plain giddy to be on two wheels again. I did put it into neutral at every stop light because I'm an adult child who still loves to blip the throttle, (will I ever grow up).

On to concerns;
>On all of my bikes, (never owned a heavy tourer), I've had unfortunate situations that required jump/push/rolling then (popping the clutch), to start the bike. I'm assuming this is not possible on DCT, (as an automatic) but does this make sense on an adventure bike that might be miles from a service station in such a situation?

>Next concern is highway RPM. As I recently have been living in an area surrounded by 140KPH/87MPH, I am worried that once I add a nice buffer to that speed I will be abusing the engine over longer stretches. On my much lower powered V-Strom650 I actually added a tooth up front and loved it, never missed any off the line acceleration. Is the AT gearing really well suited to both off road and somehow touring as well at higher speeds? I'm wondering if I should get the manual so I can change sprockets to suit daily missions, or am I worrying for nothing? I certainly don't "need" DCT, but it sure made traffic nicer and I think I would help my off road game as I sold my last dirt bike so long ago it's embarrassing.
I really want to off road this machine, but I also want to take some big road trips that will also involve long stretches of black.

Am I asking too much, or buying just the right bike?
 

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Lots of modern bikes do not "bump start" even as manual tranny's. For example my son's new KLR650 does not, the manual even states that. So on a hill he tried to bump start it and the engine would turn over but not fire. I have put a "BMW" plug on my bike (DCT) that you can jump with. I even looked into carrying a 2-1/2 pound lithium battery for such purpose.

So the bike does fine at 70-80 mph its a good tourer. I personally have not needed to go 90. The engine rpm's are up there but not disconcerting to me. The suspension and feel of the bike was great. My personal preference is to only go that fast when there is not a back road to take. But of course in the real world sometimes we take the faster road to get to the slower road.

I bought the bike so that I can take freeways (when necessary) to where I want to backroad, not disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks Flyer, don't like the idea of more crap to carry, but it's a good safety net.

I was really hoping to get more feedback on this from everyone, DCT and manual. I am cross shopping the GS because I want a go anywhere bike. Is the AT really just a big dirt bike or can it hold it's own on the black stuff? I can accept some limits from the larger wheel size, but now I have to also ride in the slow lane on longer road trips because of gearing? I'd like to know if I can sustain 100MPH cruise without damaging the bike, or at minimum 90. If I remember correctly one of the two transmission options has slightly taller final drive?
Don't get me wrong, I am so looking forward to some off road fun with this bike, but if that's all I wanted it to do I would save a ton of money and buy a normal dual sport bike.
 

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I don't know if the manual will bump start, I'll have to try it some time. But since I suspect I'd only break down in the bottom of the abyss of **** I plan to pick up one of these: https://no.co/gb20. I have the next size up and have been using it successfully on trucks and off road vehicles for a couple years. With a little luck it might fit under the seat. Don't know how they come up with 400amps for a rating, as the cables would light up like fire crackers in real life. But they do work well for starting up with a dead battery. They come with wiring so you can wire them directly to your distribution block instead of using the battery clamps. Then it's a quick connector to connect it up.
 

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Thanks Flyer, don't like the idea of more crap to carry, but it's a good safety net.

I was really hoping to get more feedback on this from everyone, DCT and manual. I am cross shopping the GS because I want a go anywhere bike. Is the AT really just a big dirt bike or can it hold it's own on the black stuff? I can accept some limits from the larger wheel size, but now I have to also ride in the slow lane on longer road trips because of gearing? I'd like to know if I can sustain 100MPH cruise without damaging the bike, or at minimum 90. If I remember correctly one of the two transmission options has slightly taller final drive?
Don't get me wrong, I am so looking forward to some off road fun with this bike, but if that's all I wanted it to do I would save a ton of money and buy a normal dual sport bike.


If I understood correctly, you are trying to decide AT vs GS !?
Well just for this I'd advise Honda, because much less breakdown possibilities than on Beemers, I never feel good having that much electronics on a motorcycle, it is always the first thing that will crap out !


The thing with BMW is the way they use statistics, like for breakdowns the BMW will take almost anything under warranty, so of course they do better in the "not Under warranty breakdowns" statisctics, which is pretty much what we see all the time.
But if you'd make a statistic, of the time a motorcycle spends imobilised because of breakdowns, warranty or not, the Beemers are the worst and japanese are then on top.


Some people have cars and don't mind having the motorcycle on repair as long as it's free, I don't own a car therefore reliability is key to me, I can't have my motorcycle imobilised one or two weeks.


Hope I understood and didn't rant off-topic :D !


On the jump start side, I always heard manual is possible but as always it's not good for injection and catalytic stuff, maybe a legend who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I understood correctly, you are trying to decide AT vs GS !?
Well not really:grin2:
I simply wanted to illustrate the kind of performance I'm after. I'm super stoked about the AT and it's off road abilities, but I don't want to give up toooo much on road performance and I'd hate to be stuck in the slow lane because of gearing.
I think the push start thing scares me the most; it may not be good, but it's really happened more times than I'd like in the real world. I'll look into this jumper pack thing, but hurray for another batt to minitor and charge if I go that route.
 

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Well then if your reference point is a GS, Honda will only exceed your expectations reliability wise.

Take it from, so far an only tarmac rider on 5 different Yamaha roadsters, honestly the AT is better on road than all my former motorcycles were.
I used these all year round except when snowing and did about 12'000km yearly, I don't feel I sacrificed anything and now I can ride on gravel, without clenching the saddle with my butt !

It's the best forks I had, engine is responsive, most balanced and easy to turn at low speeds, even the breaks feel very easy and linear.
Now I'm waiting to do an off-road course for good basis !
 

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I'll look into this jumper pack thing, but hurray for another batt to minitor and charge if I go that route.
If you do plan on going off road, you'll have to consider that there could be a lot of situations where you can't bump start the bike because you won't be able to push it fast enough, or not at all on soft ground or hills especially if you go solo. In that case the only thing you can do is jump start. These packs are lithium, they could sit under your seat for 5 years and still work.

I think people over analyze the HP figures in the magazine articles. This is a 1000cc twin we're talking about here, it's got a few less horsepower than the GS but that doesn't make it a Grom :wink2:.
 

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Hi'

I have 10500 miles so far on the AT

Mostly on Highway, backroads and some gravel and dirt ( didn't get it for riding dirt, I got it for minor excursions offroad )

Your question confuses me a little
DCT doesn't mean it only has 1 gear, it has 6
If you really want to go hard core dirt riding, and unless you are a professional, I would recommend you get a lighter dirt bike
The AT is a very heavy bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Your question confuses me a little
DCT doesn't mean it only has 1 gear, it has 6
If you really want to go hard core dirt riding, and unless you are a professional, I would recommend you get a lighter dirt bike
The AT is a very heavy bike
I am quite familiar with the operation of DCT, I was referring to the final drive ratio and if the bike can sustain higher highway speeds; one poster said 80 and another claimed 100MPH all day long. I think 90 would satisfy me.
Not looking for gnarly stuff, just to keep going where the pavement ends. I wanted a DR650, but Euro4 won't allow it here.
AT is a big step up, but I think it will suit me.

If you do plan on going off road, you'll have to consider that there could be a lot of situations where you can't bump start the bike because you won't be able to push it fast enough, or not at all on soft ground or hills especially if you go solo. In that case the only thing you can do is jump start. These packs are lithium, they could sit under your seat for 5 years and still work.

I think people over analyze the HP figures in the magazine articles. This is a 1000cc twin we're talking about here, it's got a few less horsepower than the GS but that doesn't make it a Grom :wink2:.
I didn't research the battery type; it was my understanding the cells would discharge after a few weeks, good to know I can bring a low maintenance backup option.

I don't wish for reliability headaches from Bavaria, I want a smooth cross country bike that can hit the dirt. Seems the AT can do the nasty, but I usually hear less praise on road; how do you like canyon carving with that big 21 up front?
To be clear, the AT is my only choice, the decision now is down to transmission. I love my DL650, the AT seems like an obvious progression.
 

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Flyer, I am fascinated by your statement:
I have put a "BMW" plug on my bike (DCT) that you can jump with.
What is this - how does it work?

Anybody know of any videos or good pics online telling how to set up a hard wire system properly, so that it is easy to jump from an external battery pack if needed?

I want to be able to jump start my AT if needed, as I go far off the beaten track and don't want to have to pull all the gear off for a jump start if I ever need to. So would like to set up some system that makes connection easy. Perhaps under the seat?
 

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I had a DCT CT before the AT manual i have now.

I have used both bikes on some easy hardpack/dry off roading over the years but the AT's road manners are great, you would hardly notice the 21" front.

This newer version of DCT supposedly has some helpfull additions which the CT DCT didn't have so i would blag a testride or do an 'experience day' to learn if its for you.

I have done a bit of off roading in some gnarly places in the UK (NO i am not very good) but on 250's and my current 400 but i wouldn't dream of taking the AT along those trails due to its weight. At almost 63 and slighly infirm i stick to the easier stuff on the big bike. I did however add protection for when i am tempted by a dirt track like as i was several times in Northern Spain about a week ago.

I loved the DCT on the CT and think this AT version might answer some of the problems

Ian
 

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I'd like to jump on this thread instead of starting a new one if I may. If I'd be better with a new thread, just let me know...

I'm also interested in how the AT does on the road at 70 mph.
I currently have an F800GS that is at about 4,200 rpm at 70 (with a 1 tooth larger countershaft sprocket). That 4,200 rpm is very buzy, and within an hour on the interstate my hands are toast.

There is a gearing calculator on another forum site (would it be bad form to mention it?) that states that with stock gearing an AT will be at 3,948 rpm at 70 mph with the stock gearing.

But beyond simply the RPM, the question is how much vibration is transferred to the rider at 70 mph?

Obviously, everyone is different and results will vary, but my plan is to purchase an AT, and retire the F800GS if I can validate the road worthiness for me of the AT.

Like many of you here, I like to spend most of my time on backroads at 45-55, gravel or even a little dirt. But there are times when you just have to quickly get to to the stuff you want to ride.
 

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I'd like to jump on this thread instead of starting a new one if I may. If I'd be better with a new thread, just let me know...

I'm also interested in how the AT does on the road at 70 mph.
I currently have an F800GS that is at about 4,200 rpm at 70 (with a 1 tooth larger countershaft sprocket). That 4,200 rpm is very buzy, and within an hour on the interstate my hands are toast.

There is a gearing calculator on another forum site (would it be bad form to mention it?) that states that with stock gearing an AT will be at 3,948 rpm at 70 mph with the stock gearing.

But beyond simply the RPM, the question is how much vibration is transferred to the rider at 70 mph?

Obviously, everyone is different and results will vary, but my plan is to purchase an AT, and retire the F800GS if I can validate the road worthiness for me of the AT.

Like many of you here, I like to spend most of my time on backroads at 45-55, gravel or even a little dirt. But there are times when you just have to quickly get to to the stuff you want to ride.
With stock gearing at 70mph I drop it down to third gear for quick passes. Vibration at that speed in top gear is non existent.
 

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The only thing I have had an issue with at speed on tarmac with the AT (manual) is the fork wind updraft playing pinball with my head.. something I never experienced riding my BM GS ADV 1200 for up to 18 hours at a time between 120mph and 140mph on German motorways.
 

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The only thing I have had an issue with at speed on tarmac with the AT (manual) is the fork wind updraft playing pinball with my head.. something I never experienced riding my BM GS ADV 1200 for up to 18 hours at a time between 120mph and 140mph on German motorways.
At that speed you would cross Germany about 4 times…
 
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