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Another thing to try is to check and drain the crankcase vent tubes. I had the same problems early on and found that solution. Mine had about a tablespoon of oil in the left side.

After you get a few good miles on it the problem will hopefully go away. My '17 AT took about 1500 miles before it felt like it was broke in good. And its never stalled since in the last 2k miles, knock on wood.
I have had a 2016 DCT for the past 6 months, it has 23K Km up and I had a first stalling experience while commuting yesterday morning, Filtered to the front at a busy roundabout and it just so happened it was one of those annoying times when some to55er in a cage felt the need to race when the light went green, I smirked opened the throtlle and was left more embarrased then anything else as the bike stalled and multiple cars whizzed by each side of me as I re-started.
Reading this thread I noticed the post above and on checking the rear vent tube I also had a similar amount of oil to drain. Due to COVID restrictions I have not put much Kms up in the 6 months I have had the bike ( maybe about 4K if that) but did cover ~600 Km in past 2 weeks. Annoyingly my 6 month used bike warranty just expired 2 weeks ago.

I have had the occasional stall on first start, but these did not concern me that much. This stall happened 5 miles into a commute in heavy traffic, so more concerning. I also had two startup stalls along with this yesterday.

Hoping against hope the olil drain may help, but reading this thread does not give me great confidence, I'm pretty sure I read elsewhere when researching the bike before buying that the starter button is prone to failing and causing this issue?
64252



UPDATE: 2nd day after first green light stall above, cold start stall again today, but thankfully no stall during ride.
Some Other notes:
  • Fuel level was on 1 bar when 1st day green light stall happened.
  • Bike was not on trickle charge preceding 1st or 2nd day and I had been leaving on trickle charge fairly consistently prior to this.
 

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This thread is real interesting as owner of a 6 week old brand new 2021 ATAS DCT that’s now stalled 3x. As a former bicycle wrench I know it can be real hard to fix something that can’t be replicated by a tech. Putting aside my other service issues, I’ve been very surprised by how many times I’ve stalled a ‘cant stall’ dct

Mine are in same category as others who report it’s at very low throttle inputs in S1. 1x while idle at a stoplight, 1x while starting to go thru an urban intersection after green light in dense traffic gently (this is my big worry that I’ll get rear ended) and 1x while taking off from a parked position.

Each time killed the bike and threw it into N, as if the side stand was lowered. As far as I know didn’t touch the side stand, but… the one time I caught it on camera my wife shifted her pillion position right before. She swears she didn’t drop her legs below her pegs tho.


Because it’s happening with such low throttle input I’d rule out in this instance the 2021 having the fuel filter issues of the 2020s?

My guess is this category of stalls is what DoubleThumper says - it’s electrical. Is there anything other than the side stand dropping that instantly puts the bike in neutral? I feel like the button doesn’t even do it so fast. In any case to anyone who says it’s not real there’s another video of it, on a 2021.
I extremely sure it is an electrical problem as @DoubleThumper said but the real issue is inexperience of the dealers. Also it is weird to contact to the Customer Service and they just watch you with the problem.
At my last experience with the dealer, the service’s chief said to me “DCT is unnecessary in the motorcycle world, buy one manuel-transmisson one like a man”. Hahaha, thank you Honda.
 

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I am wonder @Pixelperfe.ct if it would be possible to describe and/or demonstrate a reproducer for Forum members.

That is, when it happens,
  • Does it happen the same way each time?
  • If yes, then can you describe the steps you experience leading up to the failure.
  • Otherwise, if each experience is unique, that still can be telling by adding to new subtle clue each time.
  • What else do you "feel" prior to the failure? Is there sudden shaking? What else comes to mind?
  • Does it only happen in really hot temperatures, damp conditions, or any other common situation?
  • What kind of load is on the machine at the moment of failure? Going uphill? Downhill?
  • Are you accelerating or decelerating?
  • ... in any case, any pattern of behaviour you can describe might help the Forum crowd-solve this.
 

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Sure @DoubleThumper. You're right!

  • I bought my ATAS at July 2020 and since then i've made 8250km for total with she.
  • I can not say i found a solution to repeat the stall problem but if i'm not wrong i experience the problem for 7-8 times since then.
  • Frankly, it always becomes at 1st gear and actually the drive-mode isn't important (D or S also S1-2-3) at my experiences.
  • I've experienced the following situations if i need to group them;
    • Cold-start, small rev-up to the handgrip to hear the exhaust. Stall.
    • Heated motor, in traffic small steps. Stall.
    • Heated motor, in traffic at traffic light. Green-light. Stall.
    • 50-60km/h for a time and quick slow down (traffic), then give it a rev-up. Stall.
    • Take a bend with 1st gear. Stall.
  • My ATAS as you know guaranteed and i'm in a close contact with my dealer. So the care is in order. There is no technical problem i believe.
  • We've made the recall process on oil-filter at Feb, 21. Since then i just experienced the stall for just one more time. (traffic lights, green-light)
  • At last experience, they've upgraded the brain-software. So we can see the error codes (at last) on the warning-icons. Then they connected to the main-computer to see the details. They've just seen that it is an electrical issue. Bc they can not say anything else.
  • I've opened ticket for 4 times with the stall problem.
    • Firstly, they just said, it is a fuel quality problem. (I'm living in Kadıkoy, Istanbul, in short, the center of the city so all the petrol stations are audited by government)
    • For the second time, they've said they calibrated the gear etc.
    • Next time, they changed the oil-filter and re-calibrated the gear system (it's funny)
    • Finally, they just erase the errors from the machine's brain (hahaha) and say, there is no problem at our tests.
 

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Aggregating a lot of these threads and there seems to be a total consensus of common occurrence of low speed / low throttle input stalls when starting off or just after. Just annoying enough and infrequent that it hasn’t escalated to top tier. My tech just reset my ECM he let me watch the whole procedure which seems to be Honda’s guidance. In any case none of the stalls one of which I have on video recorded an error in the DTC codes. I wish Honda could escalate this because although it’s a slight nuisance and not as dangerous as the 2020 fuel tank issue, I really don’t want to get rear ended. Some drivers are really aggressive when behind you on this bike.
 

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Well my 2017 is over 9200 milies now.
My feeling is the cheaper lower octane ethanol fuel is the best for stopping the hiccups and cold start stalls.
I sometime feel the urge to run the 93 octane, when I do there there are problems. Seems to die more on the cold starts with 93 and when taking off it will die sometimes. With the cheapest 87octane it runs great, but still dies on a cold start very randomly.
Others on here prefer 87 over 93 also. Reading about the crappy fuels people in other countries are running just reinforces the idea to me as well.
Also my vent breather tubes don't accumulate oil like they did at the lower milages for whatever reason.
 

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Well my 2017 is over 9200 milies now.
My feeling is the cheaper lower octane ethanol fuel is the best for stopping the hiccups and cold start stalls.
I sometime feel the urge to run the 93 octane, when I do there there are problems. Seems to die more on the cold starts with 93 and when taking off it will die sometimes. With the cheapest 87octane it runs great, but still dies on a cold start very randomly.
Others on here prefer 87 over 93 also. Reading about the crappy fuels people in other countries are running just reinforces the idea to me as well.
Also my vent breather tubes don't accumulate oil like they did at the lower milages for whatever reason.
I can not accept this style problem in an adventure bike. If it will become real, i’ll ashamed for Honda :)
 

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Well my 2017 is over 9200 milies now.
My feeling is the cheaper lower octane ethanol fuel is the best for stopping the hiccups and cold start stalls.
I sometime feel the urge to run the 93 octane, when I do there there are problems. Seems to die more on the cold starts with 93 and when taking off it will die sometimes. With the cheapest 87octane it runs great, but still dies on a cold start very randomly.
Others on here prefer 87 over 93 also. Reading about the crappy fuels people in other countries are running just reinforces the idea to me as well.
Also my vent breather tubes don't accumulate oil like they did at the lower milages for whatever reason.
I have found my Africa Twin, as well as the NC750X and the CB1100, run supremely better on regular octane (87 in North America). Anything higher and the machine seems to be "burpee".
 
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