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After fueling up at the gas station today the bike wouldn't go into drive. Anyone else have this problem⁉
We rolled it back and forward, turned it off and on a few times. After an hour of sitting there without touching it tried it again... Nothing. Had to call someone to come pick us up because we were 2 hours away from home heading further and thought it would be a bad idea to continue on our journey further from home... Finally as we were ready to just give up, it worked!!! What the heck? It has happened before in our garage and didn't think anything of it. It is a 2016 AT DCT with 20,000. If anyone has a fix or knows what's going on, we are all ears‼
 

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Side stand switch playing up maybe?

Thought it was that intially so I disconnected it after the first time and thought that was the issue. And now having the issue with it disconnected. ⁉? Don't want to take it out and be stranded somewhere‼ Think I'll sell it and get a shifter model⁉
 

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Had the same problem with my DCT also after refueling approx 8 months ago.
I'd been away for three days and it rained all the time, so the bike got quite wet.
The bike wasn't undercover when parked up at the end of the day.
While I was waiting for someone to come and get me (215km from home) I checked the side standing switch, sprayed WD40 everywhere, disconnected and reconnected the battery, checked the fuzes and reset the computer (accessed the forum and got the code to put in).
Nothing worked and I was also very #$%^&*[email protected]@$RR off.
After 8 days in the Honda dealer the bike computers were reset and I haven't had a problem since then.
No fault message showed up, so the dealer has no idea what went wrong.
They said Bluewing Honda (New Zealand Honda dealer) had asked Honda Japan if they had received any complaints ref this problem and they told me they hadn't.
All my fingers and toes are crossed now when I go off road and out of cell phone coverage.
Please let me know if they find any faults with your bike.
 

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AFAIK,
If the idle rpm is too high for some reason,
you cannot shift out of neutral (a safety feature).
Conversely, you cannot shift into neutral,
unless the bike is stopped.
 

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Had the same problem. While riding in a remote forest at about 50kph it put itself in neutral and stayed there with no fault code. After much fault finding we couldn't fix it. Had to get towed out of the scrub (pretty difficult and scary experience in the conditions) and then trucked back to town. The bike is with the Honda dealer and they have consulted with Honda Australia and submitted a warranty claim for a new computer (MCU). This has rattled my confidence in the reliability of the bike. My understanding was that it had a limp home capability, that even with an MCU failure you could still get home or be it in 1st gear.....well apparently not? With where I ride (sometime pretty difficult to recover a heavy bike), I can't accept this level of possible failure....and I see from other posters it appears to be not uncommon, so as much as i like the DCT I think its new bike time
 

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Yea I kinda sux, they add all the “safety” features then they come back and bite us in the arse...
 

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Same thing happened to me before. But today it went a bit too far. I was waiting for my friend outside his house. I switch off the bike but when i was ready to go the bike just did not shift to Drive. The cursor kept on blinking on the screen where it shows N and gear numbers. I turned off and on a lot of time, moved the bike forward and backwards but nothing worked. Finally the battery got weak because i was starting and killing engine a lot. Then my friend jump started the bike and suddenly the blinking cursor went away and N came back and the bike started shifting to D again. My friend diagnosed that i might have a weak battery and DCT mizght requires upper range of voltage. The jump started upped the voltage and gearbox started working normally. Does that make sense to you guys? Btw i lost my confidence in DCT unless someone tells me the exact cause of this problem
 

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Hassaan, it appears you may have experienced something quite similar that a few other members recently have, and in their cases I believe it was related to a weak battery.

Early warning appears somewhat elusive, and discussion have been revolving around ideas of "early low voltage warning". Conventional gearbox-based bikes usually give you a weak starter warning. It could be the DCT has some heavy-duty solenoids to move to "home" position prior to enabling engine ignition ... or something like that, I don't exactly know.

Do you have a lithium or AGM-based battery? What is your model year?

Nevertheless, welcome to the Forum. We try to help each other.
 

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[
Same thing happened to me before. But today it went a bit too far. I was waiting for my friend outside his house. I switch off the bike but when i was ready to go the bike just did not shift to Drive. The cursor kept on blinking on the screen where it shows N and gear numbers. I turned off and on a lot of time, moved the bike forward and backwards but nothing worked. Finally the battery got weak because i was starting and killing engine a lot. Then my friend jump started the bike and suddenly the blinking cursor went away and N came back and the bike started shifting to D again. My friend diagnosed that i might have a weak battery and DCT might requires upper range of voltage. The jump started upped the voltage and gearbox started working normally. Does that make sense to you guys? Btw i lost my confidence in DCT unless someone tells me the exact cause of this problem
As Double Thumper mentioned, it may be a failing battery. You may want to have a load test performed on your battery. There have been some recent posts here of a similar situation with 2016 and 2017 bikes which seemed to be resolved by replacing the battery. 12 Volt lead acid and AGM batteries can be notorious for failing without warning. Just because the battery is new or relatively new doesn't mean it is good. I have seen a new battery fail two days after it was installed in the vehicle. It seems the DCT has to move some servos in the transmission to place the bike in neutral before allowing the rider to start the engine. I don't know how low the voltage can be before the servos won't function, maybe that was the battery indicating a pending imminent failure. If it is the battery, at least that is an easy fix. I am trying to make a habit of placing the bike in neutral before shutting down or getting off the bike while it is still running. It should be second nature since all my previous bike came with manual transmissions. I also need to get into the habit of using the parking brake when the bike is parked any where other than in my garage.
 

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I have 2016 DCT. So, right after jump start, i checked the voltage of my battery while engine running using a voltmeter and it showed 14.2.

The battery I have is YTZ 14S Yuasa Lead acid. I can believe that its an old battery because I am the second owner of the bike and I have not changed the battery since i bought it in October 2018. So, as my bike only did about 9000kms when I bought it so I assume that the first owner did not change the battery at all and the battery was factory fitted. Seems like the battery hunting season begin. any suggestions on that?
 

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I have 2016 DCT. So, right after jump start, i checked the voltage of my battery while engine running using a voltmeter and it showed 14.2.

The battery I have is YTZ 14S Yuasa Lead acid. I can believe that its an old battery because I am the second owner of the bike and I have not changed the battery since i bought it in October 2018. So, as my bike only did about 9000kms when I bought it so I assume that the first owner did not change the battery at all and the battery was factory fitted. Seems like the battery hunting season begin. any suggestions on that?
If you are looking for a direct fit, an AGM battery might be the best solution. If you go lithium, the battery will need to have some padding installed to keep it from sliding or bouncing around in the battery box. Lithium is quite a bit smaller and much lighter but more expensive.

It sounds like the charging system is fine. If you check the battery voltage while someone cranks the starter for you that may give a rough idea of battery condition. For this the battery should be fully charged. The voltage shouldn't drop below 11 V. If it hits 10 or lower most likely the battery needs to go. This would just be a rough indicator. A load test with a proper meter would be better.
 

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Hassaan: Just for clarity, even if you had the non-DCT AT variant, you will likely end up in the same situation. The difference may be: i) An early warning by way of a weak starter motor behaviour, and eventual fail to start, and ii) You can bump-start the manual gearbox to awake the beast.
 

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I also have a 2016 AT DCT that is having problems. Mine has 40,000 miles on it and I'm the original owner. The first episode of being left stranded occurred after I'd driven freeway for 30 or so miles and then stopped for gas. I should mention that this bike has worked flawlessly up to this point. Leaving the gas station the bike started acting sluggishly and wasn't responding to the shift buttons. I should also mention that a few days before I had been experiencing a higher than normal idle speed with creeping at stop lights. I have never put it into neutral at stop lights. So I performed the initialization procedure , which after about ten attempts, was successful. Back to the original journey. After the gas stop I realized that I had lost control of the shifting (I always ride in S2) (The dash was showing the symbol "--" blinking slowly) and felt like the bike was stuck in 3rd or 4th gear. I decided to head for home. Then realized that freeway driving and going over the coastal mountain range wasn't going to be possible so parked it and got my son to come get me in the pickup truck.
Took the bike to Hollister Honda in central coast area of California as they seemed to be the only ones familiar with DCT. Technician got trouble codes #8, Gearchange inoperative (faulty TP sensor or wiring); #37, Gearchange inoperative (faulty ignition hold relay in PCM, Blown DCT 7.5 amp fuse, faulty PCM power output); #52, Gearchange works normally or inoperative (depending on exact fault), Neutral switch stuck off or on, faulty neutral switch wiring. Finally, #57, Gearchange inoperative. ( Faulty gear change mechanism, faulty TR sensor or wiring). After this he detected an air leak around the intake boot, fixed this, cleared the trouble codes and cleaned the IACV or ACV valve and called it good. I don't know if any of the trouble codes were acted on.
Several days later I took it for a ride down the coast and through some remote backroads about 150 miles south of my home. Part way through the remote part the blinking "--" symbol on the dash started up and I was soon stuck in third gear. Managed to limp in to nearest town, called for help and got my other son to come get me. Like other voices on this forum I am seriously re-thinking my love for the DCT.
I am going to check out the battery. Mine is the original lead acid that came on the bike and I had noted that Honda recommends replacement at 4 years. That would be a nice solution to the problem. Otherwise the rarity of technicians who have much (or any) experience with the DCT is a problem around here.
 

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I forgot to mention that my AT DCT got me to the main highway and a parking lot where I could wait for rescue with cell service. However, after I shut the bike off there was not any way to re-start it. Starter would spin but made weird noise like it wasn't engaging with fly wheel.
 

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That sounds incredibly nasty Geeman, and I am sure Forum members are carefully reading about your experience. I hope these are symptoms to an entirely singular problem, maybe like the battery, or critical electrical source connections / fuse holders / etc.

Good quality AGM batteries typically have a reliable service life of three years. After that, time is borrowed. Many can get five years, most should get to four years, depending on use and region.

So far, DCT owners appear to get a sudden "no start" behaviour. However, you seem to experience failure while already riding. Not sure what this means because the charging system ought to be supporting the battery, unless the battery is so far gone that it is heavily loading the charging system too.

In any case, UPSs (Uninterruptible Power Supplies) have a similar issue with decaying AGM batteries. After three years all bets are off and time is borrowed. The next time the UPS does a self-diagnostic load test, the UPS fails. The most I have gotten on a UPS and Honda motorcycle OEM AGM battery was five years. That was pushing it too far.

Update: Based on you latest response (no ignition after engine shut off), it does sound like a very tired battery.
 

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My recent experience with a 2017 vintage original equipment battery and a DCT was that the DCT didn't work (wouldn't shift into N) with a battery voltage of 11.5v. Had been riding the week before, no issues.

Replaced battery and all is happy, again.

I think the DCT needs the juice to actuate; if it is low, then it doesn't play well with others...
 
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