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Discussion Starter #1
I was returning home from a very wet long weekend (3 days) ride when I stopped at a fuel station to refuel the bike (210km from home).
When I restareted the bike it wouldn't go into the drive mode.
I checked that the side stand was up and it was.
Between rain showers I cleaned the area around the side stand switch, disconnected and reconnected the battery (what a pain), sprayed WD40 into the switch gear, checked the fuzes and reset the computer.
No change.
While waiting I checked this Forum for ideas and that's where I found the info ref resetting the computer.
Six hours later my brother turned up and we loaded the bike onto a trailer and three hours later we were home.
Have delivered the bike to the local Honda dealer and they can't look at it until next Monday.
I'm lucky it didn't happen while I was riding in the high country by myself (people knew where I was going), as I had no cell phone coverage.
Has anyone had a problem like this?
 

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This is the type of story that gives me shivers. Indeed imagine being out of cell range in a situation like this, maybe it's getting dark.
I suppose the same argument was made when EFI was introduced.
Maybe I should tell my local shop that my switch is acting up so I get a preemptive replacement.
Just wish we knew what's causing these failures so we know what to look for.
 

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Is it possible to bypass the side stand switch just to check it out or put a meter across it? Sounds to me the most likely suspect. You might be able to put a manual in to gear but if the switch is not working correctly it would still not let you start the bike.
 

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Is it possible to bypass the side stand switch just to check it out or put a meter across it? Sounds to me the most likely suspect. You might be able to put a manual in to gear but if the switch is not working correctly it would still not let you start the bike.
Bike manual mentions something about trying to roll it forward , backwatd a bit and see if that then engages the gears.

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Bike manual mentions something about trying to roll it forward , backwatd a bit and see if that then engages the gears.

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Yeah i have seen that somewhere before.
And as someone alludes to above - a dicky sidestand switch would stop the manual bike being started - in fact that's true of any modern motorcycle isn't it, so these sidestand switched must be pretty reliable or we would hear of hundreds of riders being stranded in the countryside.
Mike
 

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Yeah i have seen that somewhere before.
And as someone alludes to above - a dicky sidestand switch would stop the manual bike being started - in fact that's true of any modern motorcycle isn't it, so these sidestand switched must be pretty reliable or we would hear of hundreds of riders being stranded in the countryside.
Mike
Good point however I've read more than a few times about AT owners having side stand issues, yet I've never experienced it on any of my previous bikes, nor heard one single friend complain of it on another bike. Seems our AT has more than one electrical gremlin in there.

I will say that after reading of all those switch gear issues, I'm happy to report my 2016 DCT made it through four hours of heavy rain recently with no issues. I thought at one point my horn had stopped working, but maybe I couldn't hear it at highway speed with my hearing protection as it worked fine at my next fill up.

So far she has quit running after a few seconds only twice with no other issues all summer. My only complaint is the incorrect factory brake assembly I've written about previously.

Maybe we should all open our switch assembly and check the condition; perhaps some didn't get filled correctly with electrical grease?
 

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One of the first things I did when getting the bike home was to drizzle a small amount of ACF50 in to the switch gear. No issues with the switches at all. I will do the side stand switch now as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update.
Bike has been in the local Honda workshop for a week.
They have carried out the tests and can't find were the fault is.
The day before the drive mode stopped working I noted the idle revs increasing to approx 1800rpm. At the time I put it down to all the wet weather I was riding in.
I also noticed that when i stopped the bike and it was just ideling, it would creap forward unless I applyied the brake (I put that down to reving to high).
The local dealer has now gone to the Honda importers in New Zealand and asked them for assistance.
The importers have asked if the bike is reving high (which it is).
They told the dealer that they have no records of Honda being made aware of a fault like this.
The mechanic thinks it could be a dry electrical connection some where.
In the mean time I wait.
Luckily I haven't sold my Honda GL1500A.
 

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Mike, my DCT AT just started exhibiting precisely these symptoms. Have you gotten a diagnosis/solution yet? I'm supposed to go on a ride early tomorrow morning and am afraid I might have to cancel. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just received a phone call from the Honda shop and they said the bike is ready to be picked up.
They said they had reset the ECM (computer) and it would now go into the drive mode.
Went in and started the bike and it was in sports mode 3 and I couldn't get it to change.
Went for a quick ride to see if that would help but it didn't.
Back to the dealer.
The mechanic said he hadn't worked on a DCT before, so he had no idea how the bike worked or even how the switches (functions) worked e.g. changing sports modes.
He's going to email the Honda importers (Blue Wing) to see if they can help.
The bike is only 16 months old and I've ridden 30,000km.
At 25,000km the left hand switch gear was replaced due to set switch sticking and the fork seals replaced due to leaking.
Now problems with the drive mode etc.
 

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Mine did this. I restarted the bike. Still wouldn't go into gear. I revved the throttle to about 3000 rpms real quick, let the idle fall back to normal. Tried again. It went into gear like it was supposed to. Leading up to my fault: I stopped, went to back into a parking spot, clicked it into N while pushing back. Then it wouldn't go into D. I think it has something to do with actuator pressures while at a higher rev. Very unlikely that after all these years of motorcycles driving in the rain, that Honda would put water vulnerable switches on their showcase dual sport. DUH?????
 

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Well a year old thread. I'm in the same situation. Starts, all systems seem ok. Fuses, grounds, etc. Tried resetting the DCT and ECU.
Checked side stand switch many times. Seat latch. Bike is 167 miles from new, open to ideas and help !!
Can I just jump the side stand switch? Heard of Switch Gear going bad?
 

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I had a similar problem. It wouldn't go into drive mode. I put in a new battery and the problem went away. Is is possible that the weak battery didn't provide enough juice to activate the drive mode? I am glad the problem is solved but I would like to have a better understanding of what happened.
 

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I had a similar problem. It wouldn't go into drive mode. I put in a new battery and the problem went away. Is is possible that the weak battery didn't provide enough juice to activate the drive mode? I am glad the problem is solved but I would like to have a better understanding of what happened.
I wouldn't think the battery would be the cause, but I do wonder if by disconnecting the terminals to swap batteries if it maybe caused a reset?

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Probably most of the time it would be a RPM issue. At a real low RPM the clutch will engage and the bike will move. So the ECU will not allow that. Essentially a “neutral drop”.. This is why when you start a cold DCT the start up is different, it starts at and stays at a low RPM. Usually most EFI vehicles (when cold) start at a higher RPM, warn up a bit then lower down to their normal idle speed. If our DCT did this, you’d start it up and IF you didn’t let it warm up and the idle drop down to normal, when you click drive the bike would just take off..
 
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