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Discussion Starter #1
Oh Oh - taking my windshield off the rubber covered nuts you screw the hold-down bolts into pushed inside the cowling. Do you have to take the whole front cowling apart to get them out? After that, how do you get the bolts started into the nuts when installing the windshield?
 

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Oh Oh - taking my windshield off the rubber covered nuts you screw the hold-down bolts into pushed inside the cowling. Do you have to take the whole front cowling apart to get them out? After that, how do you get the bolts started into the nuts when installing the windshield?
Sorry to hear that mate. There have been a few posts on this. Unfortunately, yes, I think the whole front cowling has to come off. Otherwise, you can buy new ones, from what I understand there is a lot of demand...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pretty stupid design - the OEM windshield fastener assembly - hereafter called Piece of **** (POS). The lower two of four windshield POS on the AT (six on the ATAS) won't let you get your finger behind to keep from pushing the POS through when you try to get the bolt to the rubber encased nut at the back of the POS. It is only held in place on the steel windshield brace by a flimsy rubber flange on the rubber POS body with an encased nut at the other end. You have to push the bolt through the flange to engage the nut. The flange is pretty flexible and easy to push through the windshield brace where it tumbles out-of-sight into the tank shroud for the two lowermost fasteners. The upper nuts are exposed and no problem.

There's already two POS now waiting to be removed by a service tech when everything comes apart to service the air filters (another brilliant piece of design). Makes me wonder if Honda has problems these days finding qualified design engineers. I'm sure they would never implement design details like this just to generate revenue for their dealership repair shops. If that were true you would expect their entire OEM tool kit to consist of a single allen wrench! That said, I am in LOVE with the bike and would buy it again.

I got two new POS ($3 each), some Locktite Shoe Glue that remains flexible and says it's rubber/steel joint compatible. I put a small amount on each brace and carefully slid each POS into place so the outside rubber flange will adhere to the brace. Letting it sit for a day to cure. Hopefully this will be a strong enough flexible bond to get the bolts through the first tight spot as you push the bolt through the exterior rubber POS flange without pushing the entire POS into the tank shroud. Will update if results are other than expected.
 

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Pretty stupid design - the OEM windshield fastener assembly - hereafter called Piece of **** (POS). The lower two of four windshield POS on the AT (six on the ATAS) won't let you get your finger behind to keep from pushing the POS through when you try to get the bolt to the rubber encased nut at the back of the POS. It is only held in place on the steel windshield brace by a flimsy rubber flange on the rubber POS body with an encased nut at the other end. You have to push the bolt through the flange to engage the nut. The flange is pretty flexible and easy to push through the windshield brace where it tumbles out-of-sight into the tank shroud for the two lowermost fasteners. The upper nuts are exposed and no problem.

There's already two POS now waiting to be removed by a service tech when everything comes apart to service the air filters (another brilliant piece of design). Makes me wonder if Honda has problems these days finding qualified design engineers. I'm sure they would never implement design details like this just to generate revenue for their dealership repair shops. If that were true you would expect their entire OEM tool kit to consist of a single allen wrench! That said, I am in LOVE with the bike and would buy it again.

I got two new POS ($3 each), some Locktite Shoe Glue that remains flexible and says it's rubber/steel joint compatible. I put a small amount on each brace and carefully slid each POS into place so the outside rubber flange will adhere to the brace. Letting it sit for a day to cure. Hopefully this will be a strong enough flexible bond to get the bolts through the first tight spot as you push the bolt through the exterior rubber POS flange without pushing the entire POS into the tank shroud. Will update if results are other than expected.
Good luck, I hope the locktite keep those POS's in place!
Think there was a guy who said you didn't need to fully remove the lower bolts and you could pull out the whole thing after removing the upper two and just loosening the bottom. Haven't tried yet so can confirm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As you tighten the bolt it pulls the nut forward expanding the rubber behind the windshield bracket. With the fastener attached to the windshield but not tightened it will probably slip into the bracket - duh. Currently committed to the adhesive. If that fails I will give your method a try.
 

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As you tighten the bolt it pulls the nut forward expanding the rubber behind the windshield bracket. With the fastener attached to the windshield but not tightened it will probably slip into the bracket - duh. Currently committed to the adhesive. If that fails I will give your method a try.
When you fit the screw, don't push it into the wellnut to engage the brass bit.

Just put it in until it touches the rubber and then turn it with your fingers using gentle force. The screw thread will pull the screw into the rubber until it meets the brass nut, then tighten as normal.

I found out the hard way and I've used my new method about five times now with no problems.
 

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Spot on JimInOz, no matter how well something is designed there will always be someone who can find a way to break it. There's no rocket science to removing and replacing the screen, did mine a few days ago to give it a decent clean. If the holes are lined up correctly then the screws will start with light finger pressure, no need to push the wellnuts back into the abyss that is the fairing.
 

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Ah yes the well nut vanishing trick. I just bought new ones rather than take the fairing apart. I won't make that mistake again. As someone once said "Fool me once, shame on – shame on you. Fool me – you can't get fooled again."
 

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Don’t use loctite on rubber. It won’t work and the rubber will disintegrate. In fact it acts like a lubricant so you will loose the rubber bits faster.
If you really want to glue them then use gloozit or RTV.

I’ve never pushed one out. Just be gentle and screw with fingers until the threads are engaged.

If you are ham-fisted enough to shove the rubber nut into the fairing you will not be having fun disassembling the fairing and will have a harder time snapping it all back together in correct alignment.
 

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Ah yes the well nut vanishing trick. I just bought new ones rather than take the fairing apart. I won't make that mistake again. As someone once said "Fool me once, shame on – shame on you. Fool me – you can't get fooled again."
Exactly what I did. The first time I removed those screw one or two fell inside, and I said to myself "bugger it no way I'm taking apart the whole front of the motorcycle for a piece of rubber worth a few cents".
And then I bought a whole bunch of them on Ebay, for almost nothing. Now I'm super calm about taking off my windshield again....

Until I have to take apart my fairing for a good reason, or until it fills to the brim with those rubber well nuts, it's staying on with them inside :smile2:
 
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Oh Oh - taking my windshield off the rubber covered nuts you screw the hold-down bolts into pushed inside the cowling. Do you have to take the whole front cowling apart to get them out? After that, how do you get the bolts started into the nuts when installing the windshield?
Sorry that happened to you, it happened to me as well, and yes I had to take the whole front cowling apart in order to get them. It is troublesome and time consuming to say the least. Having been thru this, my advice is to just order some extra nuts, enough to have some in spare (it will happen again sooner or later), they are cheap and it will save you a lot of work, that is unless you really enjoy taking apart your AT in order to get to know it better.
 

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Nice that I'm not the only one in the club!
Lost one when remounting after a long day of putting on a new skid plate, upper and lower bars, and I can't even remember what else but I was in the midst of putting the headlight guard on when it happened to me.
Took the fairing apart and used a grab tool to get it out from under. Learned more than I wanted to about the bike that day but good lesson anyhow as I'm about to undertake electrical and light upgrades!
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned that you needn't entirely remove those lower screws and they're right! Found that out when I got the nut out and was a bit pissed that the instruction kit I was following to install the headlight guard didn't mention it as it would have save me an hour and a lot of cussing.
Ordered a bag of replacement nuts anyway - because you never know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice to have support from all the "ham fisted" closet mechanics whose main goal in life is finding a way to break things. Knowing I am not alone is comforting. Hopefully others will read this thread and avoid similar problems. I watched a cowling removal YouTube - seemed like a guy who is pretty good with a wrench. As he removed the cowling a nut fell out and he says, "and there's the part that started this whole process".
 

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Not sure about using thread locker on these types of well nuts. Once the adhesive sets up on the brass nut inside rubber grommet and you try to remove at a later date the whole nut and rubber portion will just spin inside the hole.
 

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Not sure about using thread locker on these types of well nuts. Once the adhesive sets up on the brass nut inside rubber grommet and you try to remove at a later date the whole nut and rubber portion will just spin inside the hole.
I believe they were referring to using a LocTite brand adhesive to glue the rubber grommet to the bracket...not as a thread locker for the bolt in the nut itself.
 

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Found the post on ADVRider where a guy explains the process for not losing the nuts: Reverse the process for removing the lower 2 nuts.


QUOTE
Several have noted that the rubber nuts in the lower holes can be pushed and lost inside the faring. Mine never did but were pretty screwed up so I had to replace them. Fortunately I had ordered a new set with the screen. The problem was that making them sit in place was impossible. My solution was to put the screws through the screen, add the nuts and finger tighten just a little bit before pushing the whole thing onto the fairing. You just need to start a cm below where they are supposed to sit, push in, then push up into place and tighten some more. But not very tight! I believe the nuts (or just the metal threads they hold) are supposed to come through if the screen is hit by the rider. If you tighten more than just a bit the nuts will more or less disintegrate.UNQUOTE
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got the new windshield installed. No problem. The LockTite brand adhesive I used is specifically for bonding rubber and stays flexible. Held the bottom rubber nuts in place and I had no problem starting the screws. The new Touring Screen has six nuts instead of the standard screens four. I threaded the two new ones off the bike and pushed them in as described by others in this thread before tightening. That worked too.

So now I have the new taller windshield which works really well. Took a run on the Interstate with an open face helmet running 70 to 80 and there is a very tolerable level of wind buffeting sitting in my natural riding position. My face was comfortable in 45 degree temperature, although the ride was only 15 minutes. If I straighten my back and stretch to raise my head the wind tries to rip the helmet off, so it's pretty much spot on. I ride the standard AT with a Seat Concepts rally seat installed that is 1" taller than the standard seat. I am 6'3" with a 35" inseam.
 

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Got the new windshield installed. No problem. The LockTite brand adhesive I used is specifically for bonding rubber and stays flexible. Held the bottom rubber nuts in place and I had no problem starting the screws. The new Touring Screen has six nuts instead of the standard screens four. I threaded the two new ones off the bike and pushed them in as described by others in this thread before tightening. That worked too.

So now I have the new taller windshield which works really well. Took a run on the Interstate with an open face helmet running 70 to 80 and there is a very tolerable level of wind buffeting sitting in my natural riding position. My face was comfortable in 45 degree temperature, although the ride was only 15 minutes. If I straighten my back and stretch to raise my head the wind tries to rip the helmet off, so it's pretty much spot on. I ride the standard AT with a Seat Concepts rally seat installed that is 1" taller than the standard seat. I am 6'3" with a 35" inseam.

When you say Touring screen, do you mean the oem Honda touring screen? I checked the thread and couldn't see you mention precisely which one.
I'm your height, with the oem seat in the high position. OEM AT screen barely reaches my neck. I've got a great road helmet so not much noise or buffeting for now but want to get a peaked adv helmet too, so looking at higher screens.
Currently split between the Puig Touring and the Givi touring. The Puig looks good in pictures but recently saw another Member pic with one and I didn't like the look actually, too wide at the bottom and weird curves.
But sometimes the oem touring one comes up for a decent price so also an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Honda Touring screen (standard on ATAS). My 1" taller Seat Concepts seat is also in the high position. This setup works for me. There is air buffeting but not enough to be a problem on longer trips. That said, to date I have only "tested" the setup trough short trips on the interstate including riding behind a semi at 70 mph. It gets really hot where I live so I want limited air movement. I'm sure after-market screens will provide a calmer riding experience (California Scientific and Madstad were my shortlist). I just got lucky and found another forum member who had a tall OEM Honda screen he wanted to trade and it gave us both an inexpensive way to explore the suitability of better options for our respective heights.
 

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